3.0 to 3.2lt swap

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copperpacecar

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i have a 3.0 that im using in a ford probe for dirt track racing...so far this year ive been through three motors. (one oeverheated, one blew a rod due to the dif pin blowing out, and one was bad from the junkyard) problem is there are tons of 3.2lt motors around here but no 3.0s. how do i swap out a 3.2 for a 3.0 and still use the manual tranny? i searched for a thread on the issue and i see that it can be done but cant find info on how to do it
 

jayro

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i have a 3.0 that im using in a ford probe for dirt track racing...so far this year ive been through three motors. (one oeverheated, one blew a rod due to the dif pin blowing out, and one was bad from the junkyard) problem is there are tons of 3.2lt motors around here but no 3.0s. how do i swap out a 3.2 for a 3.0 and still use the manual tranny? i searched for a thread on the issue and i see that it can be done but cant find info on how to do it

Hmmm, I could see the diff pins being an issue for the dirt track, but the other two engines letting go makes me wonder whats up. I have tracked my modified MTX all weekend in 90+ degree weather and had no cooling issues. The needle would raise slightly, but never into any type of danger area. I am running mostly water with water wetter added.

Guess my question is "What work are you doing to the engines prior to beating the **** out of them?". I understand that you dont want to spend a lot on a motor that may not last, but with these an little maintinance will go along way in saving the motor.

Also, do you have any pics or videos of the sho powered probe whuppin up on some people?
 

zblackbeast

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How are you blowing through motors?

Also, as far as reliability your not going to see an difference between the 3.2 and the 3.0. Make sure basic maintainance is done etc. Also, rods and diffs are not connected so the two failing together are independent issues.

To sold the diff problem contact James or Dave in St. Louis about a welded/reinforced diff. As for the motor either contact us as NE SHO or Brian in the PA area about getting a motor checked and repaired by people who know these motors inside and out and know their weak points etc.

Not to be rude, but you plowing through motors like that is more user error than the motors themselves.

-Clay
 

jimtash

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If he's going to rag these engines out, putting in new rod bearings should be mandatory. Especially on junkyard engines with unknown history. A new timing belt wouldn't hurt either.
 

copperpacecar

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the pin struck the clutch and ended up breaking the pressure plate...when i continues to run the car at 8000rpm the unbalanced clutch pressure plate ripped the bearings apart in the motor...the second motor was rod knocking from the second i put it in...just a bad motor from the yard
 

zblackbeast

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Why are you running a stock motor at 8000 anyway? You stop making power past 6200?
 

kevinspann

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Gearing, I would imagine. Quicker times running it out to 8k, than shifting, then down shifting again.
 

zblackbeast

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true..

If you plan to keep beating the snot out of 20 year old un-maintained motors, expect them to blow, repeatedly. If you get a decent motor and put some fresh parts on it, you shouldn't have many issues at all..
 

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