:(

[POSHO]

So, I took it upon myself to start the front 60k today. Had all the parts rearing to go in there, got it up on some jack stands, took off the wheel, the liner, unplugged the DIS, and prepared for the dreaded bolt. Took out a 19mm socket, stuck it on a 3/8" rachet, and cranked. When I went to go take a look at the results, I found out why you're supposed to use a 1/2". It's okay, lifetime warrentee . Got out the 1/2", went and bought a 19mm socket for it, stuck it on and cranked. The engine didn't have enough torque, it's a brand new starter, but wouldn't turn enough to free the bolt. So, I went and torqued down on the front mount, and tried again. The rachet popped off, tried again, and again, and again, same results, the rachet and socket just kept popping off. So, I called for help, and had my dad crank it over while I held the rachet on...the bolt head just started spinning in the socket :`(. Naturally when I pulled the socket off, the bolt head was round. There's no way to get anything in there to grind the edges flat, what can I possibly do. Should I just pound a smaller socket on the end? I have an extra bolt, so I don't need this one back or anything, and I've had bad experiences with drilling bolts out (normally after snapping bolts on turbine housings). Even if I drill it out, there's no way a reversing bit would pull that thing out of there.
I managed to pull off a four-day weekend, so I have to get this taken care of ASAP (and my water pump's been leaking for a good four months now).
SHO gods of SHOforum, please make my day...

 

[CheckerSHO]

Was the socket you were using a 6-point or 12-point? I have never liked how a 19mm fit on the end of that bolt...maybe you can try a 6-point 3/4" socket. Its damn close in size to a 19mm and it may be a wee bit smaller. If any way possible id reccomend getting access to a 1/2" impact gun instead of teh starter method also. If its REALLY rounded off, you may have to resort to more drastic measures. In my experience, hammering on the next size down socket on a bolt thats that tight, dosnt work very good.

 

[revhardSHO]

i think you could blast the head off with a torch if worst came to the worst. Obviously, you would have to replace the pulley at that point.

Other than that I would try to get a smaller socket on there, perhaps an oddball SAE socket may make a tight fit. Use a beefy 6pt impact socket.

 

[POSHO]

I was using 6 pts.
The bolt head is nearly perfectly round.
I'm thinking about smashing a 6 pt 18mm on it, as the 3/4 seems a little too loose, but I've never seen an 18mm and don't know how it would fit. Looks like I'm heading to Autozone tomorrow morning if nobody thiks of anything better. BTW, where would one find a propane torch, and how expensive are they?

 

[SHOman24v]

DO THIS

Buy this:

Get this:

Grab this:

Put over bolt and push will all your might~~

then do this to the bolt :corn: :***:

 

[SHOtimer]

You don't want to hammer to hard, since you are hammering the crankshaft. You can very easily damage the heart of the motor.

Doug

 

[jelloslug]

You could try welding a bar on it if none of the other options work.

 

[SHOman24v]

Use The Bolt Out!

 

[POSHO]

SHOman: That is beautiful. I figured someone had to have made something like that...Sears will be getting a visit tomorrow.

Jelloslug: ...I have been looking for an excuse to get a welder, so if need be...


thanks guys

 

[Rockledge]

I managed to get the stripped crank bolt off my SHO using a Craftsman Bolt-Out (size #13) and the ignition cranking trick. First time, one shot.

Spare your ratchets, use a breaker bar.

 

[Off Road SHO]

Weld a 3/4" nut to the old bolt. Tack it on the outside so that the nut is not askew and then weld through the hole in the nut. If you're not too good with a welder, use a larger nut that fits tight over the rounded bolt head.

Don't use a torch, that puts too much heat near the rubber part of the harmonic balancer pulley.

If you drive it over to Dooleyville, I'll weld it on and loosen it for you also.

Tom

 

[POSHO]

Ah Tom, always with the ghetto rigging, I love it. Thanks for the offer, it's always nice to have a backup plan. If gas prices weren't so high, it might be plan A instead of plan B
Now, off to Sears...

 

[SHOman24v]

remember the bolt out does not take a 3/8" or 1/2" drive, you have to get a 1/2" 27mm? socket i think to put over it. The bolt out is 20 bucks and you use #13 IT WILL COME

 

[POSHO]

remember the bolt out does not take a 3/8" or 1/2" drive, you have to get a 1/2" 27mm? socket i think to put over it. The bolt out is 20 bucks and you use #13 IT WILL COME

OUT?
Thanks for the heads up, looks like I'm going to need a 27mm (I'll double check that just in case) socket as well, and a breaker bar.
Now all I need is a ride over there (Grandma to the rescue)

 

[POSHO]

then do this to the bolt :corn: :***:

The bolt is doing that to me

This has got to be the expensive bolt ever...$20 for the remover, $24 for the breaker bar, and $7 for the socket...and I still can't get the thing off.
I can't seem to get the remover on more than half way, no matter what I try. I know it's not a good idea, but I even took a little hammer to it, and nothing. Should I just got all out on it, a take a sledge to its face ? Or should I heat it up ? Or should I make the long haul to Dooleyville?

 

[wood_e]

get some air tools.... they had no problem with my crank bolt....

 

[luigisho]

Of those suggestions the last one sounds best to me.

 

[SHOman24v]

look this is what you do: first dont cry that it wont come off...hehe

lower the car till the wheels are touching the ground
put the car in park, i think you have an atx, if not put it in first
get the breaker bar and put it on the bolt with the bolt out

you are probably going to need an extension over the breaker bar. if the bar and extention flex the whole length of the engine bay, try and rotate the socket to accomadate

you may need two people to push on it so be prepared.....
all i can say is push as hard as you can (and the other person) it will come

 

[POSHO]

lower the car till the wheels are touching the ground
put the car in park, i think you have an atx, if not put it in first
get the breaker bar and put it on the bolt with the bolt out

you are probably going to need an extension over the breaker bar. if the bar and extention flex the whole length of the engine bay, try and rotate the socket to accomadate

I don't really see how this would help. Why would having the wheels on the ground help? My wheels aren't rotating when in the air. Is there any way to keep the engine from rotating? I tried sticking a screwdriver threw a hole in the power steering pulley, but then the belt just slipped on the balancer pulley. I think if I could keep the engine from rotating (without dropping the oil pan like I had to on my Cavalier), I'd be able to thread the 'bolt out' on.

 

[SHOman24v]

with the wheels on the ground the engine wont move