2013 SHO w/pp. Replaced timing chain and water pump still get p0016 and p0236

[2013SHOpp]

Ill start from the beginning. I bought the car in 2013 with a little less than a thousand miles on it (the gm of the dealership drove it as his personal car for a few weeks). Ive been great on maintenance, changed oil every 3-5k and always brought it to the dealer to have any repairs done. 2 months ago the car started overheating and it didnt blow hot air at idle so brought it in and they said it was the heater core. It cost a little more than 3k for parts and labor. they did the heater core, thermostat and new battery. I got the car home and the next day it overheated again so it brought it back. at the end of it all they said that its the water pump and it will cost 4k. i told them ill do it myself and i started ordering the necessary parts. A water pump and timing chain kit with all the chains and tensioners, oil and all the rest of the odds and ends. The engine has 110k so i also did the head gaskets and head bolts. So i tore the engine out of the car and got to work. So now i got the car running and it seems fine while it idles, it even blows hot air while idling. It seems to run fine while it idles and even if you just drive at like 15 mph it seems fine but if you give it gas it seems to only have mabey 10% of the power it had before and it shutters while accelerating. I have not got the car past 30 mph at this point. I also have codes P0016 and p0236. Cam sensor and turbo boost sensor. I switched cam sensors and its the same code so i know its not the actual sensor and the boost sensor is still giving me a headache. I don't know exactly which sensor it is so i cleaned all three. The one in the airbox, the one before the throttle body, and the one on top the intake manifold. I checked the wiring and grounds and all seems to be good. I need help brainstorming this, the cam timing code may be me installing the timing belt one tooth off but i double checked that all the dots and marks lined up and the boost sensor i have no idea. It didnt have this before i started this project. At this point i could use all the help and suggestions i can get. I put new spark plugs in it, and put in new transmission fluid. I drained out as much as i could get and put in new motorcraft. I checked the fluid level and i am over so im going to drain some out here in a little while and hope that helps.
Also, The turbos look somewhat ok to me. the one in the rear had a little play in the turbo shaft but not much, the other one had none. I was thinking about ordering new turbos from ebay(a set is like 600) and also a new intercooler as ive read that intercoolers can cause issues. Please let me know what you think and also are there any upgrades that i should do while i have this thing tore apart for the second time

 

[yaycandy]

Boost solenoid sensor is up top with a plug and like 3 hoses. They need to be ran correctly for the wastegates. But ive driven my sho with the bov off and a huge hole in the intake and it was still pretty quick never getting boost. So im not sure. Something has to be off for power to be down that much with vibration. Depending on where the vibration is make sure the driveshaft bolts are tight if you had to undo it. Clear the cel codes if you didnt already. May be putting it into a limp mode. Too bad your too many thousand miles away. Usually ill meetup with someone on the east coast where i live to diagnose the engine.
P0016 means the camsensor isnt working with the crank sensor. Maybe it needs a crank relearn

 

[SHOdded]

didnt read thru your entire post but did you replace vct solenoids also? solenoids accumulate wear metals in the filters and this may be the case here.

the phasers have not been known to be a wear part on this platform.

very rarely actually replacing the electronic cam position sensors (under the intake) resolves the p0016 issue, and i emphasize RARELY.

have seen some instances where the marks on the timing chain don't get exactly lined up so car runs fine but codes still pop. i believe one tooth off is sufficient.

 

[2013SHOpp]

I believe I may have somehow installed the timing off by one tooth. So I'll blow it apart today and I'll also install a new intercooler. I bought the car new in 2013 and it's been an awesome car the entire time. This is the first time I've ever had any issue and I am ******* cars. I can't say enough good things about the Ecoboost. The only bad thing I have to say about the car is it's unnecessarily big. It also sucks not having a 3rd pedal but it's whatever. So yea, I'll redo the timing, new intercooler and I'll rebuild the turbos.
Thank you guys for your help and input with this.

 

[2013SHOpp]

It wouldn't let me write ******* cars

 

[2013SHOpp]

I'm not soft on cars,

 

[Shoplus80]

[QUOTE="SHOdded, post: 1587078, member: 23231

have seen some instances where the marks on the timing chain don't get exactly lined up so car runs fine but codes still pop. i believe one tooth off is sufficient.[/QUOTE]

Yes this was the exact case for me since there are no timing marks on the engine it makes it real easy to have a small amount of play between the Phasers your timing will be off.

 

[luigisho]

It wouldn't let me write ******* cars

the software has huge amounts of censorship. It is designed by a bunch of punk ass bitches

 

[luigisho]

I can't believe that got through

 

[2013SHOpp]

Its amazing how some will get through and some wont. Its whatever. But yea, I did not change out the Phasers. If it is one tooth off is that enough for the piston and valve hit each other? Id hate to have to rebuild the heads and bottom end. I was amazed at how clean and in good condition this engine was in when i got into it. Now to think its most likely blown is very discouraging. Im going to pull it in tomorrow and blow it apart. cross my fingers and hope for the best.
relevant info below,
did not replace vvt
new water pump, 3 timing chains and 3 tensioners, all new chain guides, and new headgaskets and valve cover gaskets, also replaces spark plugs.
At 110k should i change the coils? its never been done. can i test them somehow?
Drained trans and refilled with motorcraft trans fluid, also changed the PTU fluid and when i got it all put back together and filled the fluids i started the car and let it get to temp and started getting the DTC codes sorted out that came up. Codes were mostly from not plugging 02 sensors back in but i got all of those fixed. i then changed the oil again just for good measure.
That reminds me of something else. Initially when the problems started the white milkshake showed up on the bottom of the 710 cap. so i saw the milkshake and the cap, drained everything and did the repairs, filled up the fluids and started the car, i let it go through the process of warming up and ideling maby 4 or 5 times and then changed the oil again. changed the oil, made sure it was at the right level and a day or 2 later i looked under tha oil cap and the milkshake was back but not as much but it was there. Could that of been just left over water or is the h20 pump leaking?

I just want to say thank you for everyone's help and advice this far. I truly appreciate any and all feed back

 

[kryptto]

Ill start from the beginning. I bought the car in 2013 with a little less than a thousand miles on it (the gm of the dealership drove it as his personal car for a few weeks). Ive been great on maintenance, changed oil every 3-5k and always brought it to the dealer to have any repairs done. 2 months ago the car started overheating and it didnt blow hot air at idle so brought it in and they said it was the heater core. It cost a little more than 3k for parts and labor. they did the heater core, thermostat and new battery. I got the car home and the next day it overheated again so it brought it back. at the end of it all they said that its the water pump and it will cost 4k. i told them ill do it myself and i started ordering the necessary parts. A water pump and timing chain kit with all the chains and tensioners, oil and all the rest of the odds and ends. The engine has 110k so i also did the head gaskets and head bolts. So i tore the engine out of the car and got to work. So now i got the car running and it seems fine while it idles, it even blows hot air while idling. It seems to run fine while it idles and even if you just drive at like 15 mph it seems fine but if you give it gas it seems to only have mabey 10% of the power it had before and it shutters while accelerating. I have not got the car past 30 mph at this point. I also have codes P0016 and p0236. Cam sensor and turbo boost sensor. I switched cam sensors and its the same code so i know its not the actual sensor and the boost sensor is still giving me a headache. I don't know exactly which sensor it is so i cleaned all three. The one in the airbox, the one before the throttle body, and the one on top the intake manifold. I checked the wiring and grounds and all seems to be good. I need help brainstorming this, the cam timing code may be me installing the timing belt one tooth off but i double checked that all the dots and marks lined up and the boost sensor i have no idea. It didnt have this before i started this project. At this point i could use all the help and suggestions i can get. I put new spark plugs in it, and put in new transmission fluid. I drained out as much as i could get and put in new motorcraft. I checked the fluid level and i am over so im going to drain some out here in a little while and hope that helps.
Also, The turbos look somewhat ok to me. the one in the rear had a little play in the turbo shaft but not much, the other one had none. I was thinking about ordering new turbos from ebay(a set is like 600) and also a new intercooler as ive read that intercoolers can cause issues. Please let me know what you think and also are there any upgrades that i should do while i have this thing tore apart for the second time

"(the gm of the dealership drove it as his personal car for a few weeks)"

Oldest dealer story for selling off their demo cars before they reach the mileage they cant sell it new any longer. - Greico or Autonation