2012 Trunk Decklid Rust

[Sunday DICKSON]

Are you sure what you are looking at is actually a paint chip then versus some "rail dust" that stuck to the paint and rusted? You might try using a clay bar in the area to see if it lifts away the rust spot and if anything is left behind.

As for the original post here, since the rust appears to be coming from inside the trunk lid due to insufficient/cracked paint and moisture getting in there somehow, I'm not sure how you'd ever get wax in the area where the rust is originating from. This used to be a very common issue on the bottoms of car doors for several manufacturers.

-Rod

Thanks Rod, you know you really got me thinking there . I'll do as you say and get back to you. Thanks.

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[Sunday DICKSON]

I'm not a professional in the area at all and don't claim to be. How small of a chip are we talking? Most chips are going to be at least the size of a pin head if not a bit larger. What I've done is taken some fine sandpaper (1500-2500 depending on severity), used a hole punch to punch out a small circle, place that centered over the rock chip, and then used the eraser from a #2 pencil to rotate the sandpaper to sand out any minor rust and clean up the jagged edges of the paint from the chip. Then I clean out the sanding dust and get the area really clean. Then I fill in the chip with touch up paint and allow to try. Then I'll come back and wetsand the immediate area to level out the touch up with existing paint. Then if there's a low spot where I didn't get enough touch up paint applied I'll clean it, add paint, dry, and wetsand again. Then I'll finally come back and buff out the area.

If you want the easier way then most touch up paint pens come with an abrasive white tip that you can use to clean out as much as you can before applying some paint. But if the chip is really small, it might be like SHOrod stated and just contamination stuck on or into the paint.

True talk, it's slightly larger if not about the same as a pin head, thanks, l am so grateful to you guys, a big to all of you. I'll look at your suggestions and itemise them from the easier to the most difficult.

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[Sunday DICKSON]

This is really the ultimate rust problem even on modern cars. If you look at the 2004-2008 F-150s you'll notice they are now rusting on the back half of the rear wheel well. My dad has one and I've looked at why they rust in this area and it really comes down to bad design and nothing the customer does can really prevent it from rusting. In this case there are two pieces of sheet metal that come together and form a seam here (wheel well and rear "fender" pieces). When it's wet outside the wheel will throw water up and a little will get into this seam. But what really makes it bad is that Ford put a spot weld to hold these pieces together and it's at about the 1 to 2 o'clock position (if you imagine the wheel well as a clock face). So water gets in the crack, gravity pulls it down, and then that spot weld dams it in place and prevents it from draining. The water is held against the metal and it rusts from the inside out. I fixed it on my dad's truck by cutting it out and welding in new.

For the OP it looks like a similar situation. There was something in the car design that allowed water into the trunk deck and it's rusting from the inside out. There's really not much one can do to prevent that except for not driving in the rain/water (which isn't practical for most people).

Thanks man.

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[spartanv7]

Check with Ford and see if they have a rust policy. Your vehicle isn't that old in the world of things. Water entering via deck lid spoiler mounting points?

I did call the dealership and they said Ford's rust policy only covers perforation, which means the rust needs to have eaten through the surface and caused a visible hole in it. He did say I could bring the car in and have them look at it, but most likely I'm on my own on this one.

 

[spartanv7]

I'm not a professional in the area at all and don't claim to be. How small of a chip are we talking? Most chips are going to be at least the size of a pin head if not a bit larger. What I've done is taken some fine sandpaper (1500-2500 depending on severity), used a hole punch to punch out a small circle, place that centered over the rock chip, and then used the eraser from a #2 pencil to rotate the sandpaper to sand out any minor rust and clean up the jagged edges of the paint from the chip. Then I clean out the sanding dust and get the area really clean. Then I fill in the chip with touch up paint and allow to try. Then I'll come back and wetsand the immediate area to level out the touch up with existing paint. Then if there's a low spot where I didn't get enough touch up paint applied I'll clean it, add paint, dry, and wetsand again. Then I'll finally come back and buff out the area.

If you want the easier way then most touch up paint pens come with an abrasive white tip that you can use to clean out as much as you can before applying some paint. But if the chip is really small, it might be like SHOrod stated and just contamination stuck on or into the paint.

That method sounds exactly like Larry Kosilla's method detailed in this video. He details that process in this video:

 

[SilverSH0]

That method sounds exactly like Larry Kosilla's method detailed in this video. He details that process in this video:

There's a reason it sounds like his method. I'm not a professional, I don't claim to be, and I don't really come up with my own techniques (why reinvent the wheel). I have simply researched a lot of peoples methods and used what works best for me. I have used his method many times on the fronts of many vehicles because it works for me.