2 piece 11.6 rotors

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Sho Amo

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is there anyone that makes 2 piece 1..6 rotors? i found some tce rotor hats for sale that are made for a 13in setup, so can i find some rotor rings that are 11.6 that bolt up to them?

i really want to stay with the 11.6 setup
 

1993MTXSHO

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I looked into it a while ago and the closest I found were some 11.7" 2 piece but they SHOULD fit without issues, if not have them turned down a hair. I might be in for a group buy, but when I did the research it was just so much money it wasn't worth it. I'll see if I can find my old thread.

Found it:

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=95294
 
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jedhead

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If the hats have the proper offset and will fit the stock brakes you just need to install the 11.7" rotors with the correct thickness. Todd made my 2-piece rotors for my Baer Racing 12.5" brakes.

Bob
 

Sho Amo

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i am not interested in 17in wheels so my only option is 11.6 unless i get team dynamics wheels. i am also not interested in team dynamics wheels.
 

Sho Amo

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i see your point. i already have my brackets drilled to fit 11.6 and it cost a pretty penny.
 

Shoaz

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i am not interested in 17in wheels so my only option is 11.6 unless i get team dynamics wheels. i am also not interested in team dynamics wheels.

The Baer-ish 12" or 12.5" kits both fit under most 16" rims, although slicers can be a challenge for the 12.5" kits. Even the old 12" kits worked best with spacers for slicers. I run the 12.5" kit under three different types of 16" (non slicer and non TD) wheels with no problems.
 

gmorrell

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Here's two of the 12.5" X 1.1" rotors from my SHO Baer brake system. On the left is the full Iron Kelsey Hayes rotor, on the right, a 2-piece unit built for me my Todd at TCE Performance.

Click thumbs for big image.


2.71 pounds difference, so the 2-piece rotor is about 16% lighter. For an 11.6" rotor, I would expect the poundage difference to be less, but the percentage difference to be about the same. I wouldn't call 16% less particularly dramatic when thinking about its barely noticeable effect on a heavy street car. Additionally, the reduction is all in the center of the rotor, just the hat, so it's effect on reducing "rotating weight" or moment of inertia effects is negligible. And on top of all that, these aren't going to stop the car any better than a one-piece rotor.

Now 2.7 less pounds of unsprung weight on the suspension assembly? That's nothing to sneeze at, but again, for a heavy street car, is it worth the extra $Hundreds for 2-piece rotors? Eh, only your wallet can answer that.

If you want 2-piece rotors for bling or to grease some rotor envy issues, hey, knock yourself out, but satisfying this urge is going to cost you some serious coin.
 

Shoaz

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If you want 2-piece rotors for bling or to grease some rotor envy issues, hey, knock yourself out, but satisfying this urge is going to cost you some serious coin.

+1 Unless you're going through rotors like crazy, like some of us do, it's hard to justify the initial cost of the two-piece units. Even so, the last set of rings I ordered from Coleman were pretty pricey, so it may be that it's just always going to be cheaper to get a set of Corvette rotors and pay to have them milled down.

And once in a great while if you're not paying attention you'll trash a rotor/hat assembly and make a clock out of it. Ahem...
 

jedhead

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Gary also you loose 3 more pounds of unsprung weight from the modified hubs too. I calculated 6 pounds less unsprung weight going from stock 1991 SHO brakes to the Baer Racing with TCE rotors including the calipers. Then I lost another 2 pounds with my OZ Racing wheels and tire combo over slicer/goodyear it starts to add up to some significant loss of unsprung weight. All this was not cheap.

Bob
 

Shoaz

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Gary also you loose 3 more pounds of unsprung weight from the modified hubs too. I calculated 6 pounds less unsprung weight going from stock 1991 SHO brakes to the Baer Racing with TCE rotors including the calipers. Then I lost another 2 pounds with my OZ Racing wheels and tire combo over slicer/goodyear it starts to add up to some significant loss of unsprung weight. All this was not cheap.

Bob

Ya gotta pay to play, and there's no reason to pay to play at a higher level than you actually play at. In other words, I don't see much reason to shell out for some of this stuff unless you really need it.

Also, I got a bit more weight savings by going to a 1" rotor rather than 1.1" like Gary is comparing. The 1.1" might last longer, or at least I think it would.

RotorCrack
 
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