'15 SHO-replacing RH turbo & PTU

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Jace1987

New Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2023
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Location
Southern Arizona
Hi everyone,

Long time lurker, finally posting. I have a '15 SHO non-PP with ~181k mi. Did the water pump & timing chain/cam phasers at 170k. I'm looking to move onto the PTU and RH turbo. Locally (southern AZ), I've been quoted ~$1450-1600 in labor to replace these two units, not including labor to replace the oil line to the turbo. I scavenged through the forums and came up with a parts list and wanted to get some thoughts on things I might be missing before ordering and taking to a local shop to perform the repairs:

PTU (DT4Z-7251-G)
RH Turbo (LU2Z6K682A)
Turbo gasket (TT4z-9450-AA)
Turbo Oil Feed (GB5Z-9T516-A), Oil line gasket (W714850-5300), O-rings (AA5Z-9U469-E)
Filter Assembly (AA5Z-6C683-A) should the banjo bolt be replaced too??

That brings me to a few questions...should the coolant supply line to the turbo be replaced as well? Ultimately wanted to do both turbos at once, but labor and part costs are limiting current repairs to PTU and RH turbo for now :( what else am I forgetting? I wouldn't mind replacing trans/engine mounts but am lost as to how many there are. Thanks in advance!
 

Ta2dResqr

SHO Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2020
Messages
1,208
Reaction score
1,144
Location
Central Ohio
On the top, there is 1 motor mount and one trans mount. On the bottom, there are 2 torque mounts/trans mounts. You should get both converter gaskets as well. They will most likely need to remove those to get the turbo out. I understand money is an issue but, the labor for doing the second one at the same time is 1.9 hrs. If you wait and do it later, it is 3.3 hrs in addition to parts like the converter gaskets that will need to be replaced again as they are one-time use. You also should do an oil change and you have to drain the cooling system when you change them. There will be a lot of duplicated costs.
 

BradM

SHO Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2022
Messages
377
Reaction score
339
Location
60010
I just swapped the RH turbo (Bank 1) twice (see my thread "Experience installing CHRA turbo cores from CR Performance"). There is no reason to replace the oil feed, oil drain, or coolant supply lines. The oil feed filter screen can be removed and cleaned in about 1 minute. All bolts can be reused. You just need the turbo, the two exhaust gaskets, the crush washers for the oil feed and coolant lines, and the gasket for the oil drain line. For reference, you can see the gasket kits that come with these turbos when they sell them on eBay. You should also consider just replacing the turbo core to save $$$ over having to buy the entire OEM turbo. It's a simple swap that any decent shop will do.
 

Ta2dResqr

SHO Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2020
Messages
1,208
Reaction score
1,144
Location
Central Ohio
I just swapped the RH turbo (Bank 1) twice (see my thread "Experience installing CHRA turbo cores from CR Performance"). There is no reason to replace the oil feed, oil drain, or coolant supply lines. The oil feed filter screen can be removed and cleaned in about 1 minute. All bolts can be reused. You just need the turbo, the two exhaust gaskets, the crush washers for the oil feed and coolant lines, and the gasket for the oil drain line. For reference, you can see the gasket kits that come with these turbos when they sell them on eBay. You should also consider just replacing the turbo core to save $$$ over having to buy the entire OEM turbo. It's a simple swap that any decent shop will do.
That may be the case when doing it yourself. However, as a shop, if I am giving a warranty, I am following manufacturer guidelines. The process states to replace the oil return line gasket and o-rings, coolant line washers, turbo mounting bolts, turbo gasket, oil supply tube gaskets, oil supply tube filter, converter nuts, converter gasket, intermediate shaft bolt, end link nut, tie rod nut, ball joint nut, 4 subframe bolts, oil, and coolant. It all depends on how they take it out and how strict they are. Generally, the bigger the job, the more strict we were as we stood to lose more money/time if there was a problem.
 

Ta2dResqr

SHO Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2020
Messages
1,208
Reaction score
1,144
Location
Central Ohio
Hard to say when the costs are so high.... both turbos same time.
What do you mean? Labor times are a hard number, if they choose not to follow the labor times, that is up to the shop. However, the RH is 5 hours, the LH is 3.3 hours and both are 6.9 hours. If you do them at the same time, you pay 6.9 hours and parts one time. If you do them separately, you pay 8.3 hours plus parts twice. I understand money is a real-world issue and it may not be feasible today but it should also be a consideration if it is better to save up and do it at once instead of paying more in the long run. Options like looking around for discount or sale parts, brands, cores vs. assemblies, etc.
 

kryptto

The Best Thing About Cars... ones in my mirror.
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2023
Messages
3,196
Reaction score
2,066
Location
South East, Florida
What do you mean? Labor times are a hard number, if they choose not to follow the labor times, that is up to the shop. However, the RH is 5 hours, the LH is 3.3 hours and both are 6.9 hours. If you do them at the same time, you pay 6.9 hours and parts one time. If you do them separately, you pay 8.3 hours plus parts twice. I understand money is a real-world issue and it may not be feasible today but it should also be a consideration if it is better to save up and do it at once instead of paying more in the long run. Options like looking around for discount or sale parts, brands, cores vs. assemblies, etc.
Yeah - I am trying to encourage replacing both considering the costs of labor - since in the long run it would be cheaper for both - and make sure the other turbo might be getting to end of life.

Basically didnt make myself clear I concur with your advice:
feasible today but it should also be a consideration if it is better to save up and do it at once instead of paying more in the long run.
 

Jace1987

New Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2023
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Location
Southern Arizona
What do you mean? Labor times are a hard number, if they choose not to follow the labor times, that is up to the shop. However, the RH is 5 hours, the LH is 3.3 hours and both are 6.9 hours. If you do them at the same time, you pay 6.9 hours and parts one time. If you do them separately, you pay 8.3 hours plus parts twice. I understand money is a real-world issue and it may not be feasible today but it should also be a consideration if it is better to save up and do it at once instead of paying more in the long run. Options like looking around for discount or sale parts, brands, cores vs. assemblies, etc.
Didn't think about cores...something like this?
CR Turbo Cores

Is labor cheaper replacing the cores as opposed to replacing the entire turbocharger? Also, it sounds like I have wastegate rattle on the RH. I've been told the LH still looks and sounds good.
 

BradM

SHO Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2022
Messages
377
Reaction score
339
Location
60010
There will extra time billed for disassembling the turbos to install the new cores (should take 15 minutes) but compare the cost of OEM turbo vs. a new core. And yes, the CR cores are good. I thought wastegate rattle for the ecoboosts were on the ones using electronic WG controllers, not the on vacuum controlled WG's (like ours). If you have rattle you should be looking at the WG.
 

Bluezone

Tailgaters will be prosecuted.
Joined
Jul 30, 2020
Messages
938
Reaction score
885
Location
Ont, Canada
There will extra time billed for disassembling the turbos to install the new cores (should take 15 minutes) but compare the cost of OEM turbo vs. a new core. And yes, the CR cores are good. I thought wastegate rattle for the ecoboosts were on the ones using electronic WG controllers, not the on vacuum controlled WG's (like ours). If you have rattle you should be looking at the WG.
The internal wastegates on our turbos can wear over time. There are several different problems that cause this.
One is erosion of the seat that the poppet valve seals against.
Another is wear and tear on the linkage arm and poppet valve free float attachment.
The third cause is wearing of the Pivot Point hole.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
107,088
Messages
1,181,315
Members
16,153
Latest member
lapochkarr

Members online

Back
Top