100,000 mile tune up
- Thread starter PFA
- Start date
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E1
Crash Tested
Yeah.
You virtually NEVER need to adjust the shims at 100k. I rarely find one out of spec under 150k. The valve tappet bucket shims just don't wear out the same way as they do on the Old V6 SHO's. Also, sounds odd, but you want to check those shims on a COLD motor (or is it an engine?).
I've checked them on still very hot cars - i.e. - fresh off a five hour highway trip, pull off the front cover and stick a feeler gauge in the shim right away - and they will read more gap due to heat expansion on the aluminum heads.
After the engine cools down, the same shims will read much tighter.
HOWEVER,
YOU will need to do shim work anyhow because you have a head/camshaft/valves to replace. The shims are a bit of a pain to pop out, that little Rotunda bent thingy helps a lot, but it's not the end of the world if you don't have one. If you look close at the shims, you will see each one has a hole in it. Blow air into that hole to pop out the shim from the bucket.
Then just start measuring all the shim to cam lobe BOTTOM clearances - i.e. have the lobe pointing directly up away from the shim - and swap in thicker/thinner shims as needed to make all the valve clearances the same.
Specs are in the book, CD and V8SHO website, but off the top of my head (I may be wrong) I think it's .25 mm exhaust, .15mm intake is ideal on a cold motor (or is it an engine?;-) )
Hope that helps a bit
You virtually NEVER need to adjust the shims at 100k. I rarely find one out of spec under 150k. The valve tappet bucket shims just don't wear out the same way as they do on the Old V6 SHO's. Also, sounds odd, but you want to check those shims on a COLD motor (or is it an engine?).
I've checked them on still very hot cars - i.e. - fresh off a five hour highway trip, pull off the front cover and stick a feeler gauge in the shim right away - and they will read more gap due to heat expansion on the aluminum heads.
After the engine cools down, the same shims will read much tighter.
HOWEVER,
YOU will need to do shim work anyhow because you have a head/camshaft/valves to replace. The shims are a bit of a pain to pop out, that little Rotunda bent thingy helps a lot, but it's not the end of the world if you don't have one. If you look close at the shims, you will see each one has a hole in it. Blow air into that hole to pop out the shim from the bucket.
Then just start measuring all the shim to cam lobe BOTTOM clearances - i.e. have the lobe pointing directly up away from the shim - and swap in thicker/thinner shims as needed to make all the valve clearances the same.
Specs are in the book, CD and V8SHO website, but off the top of my head (I may be wrong) I think it's .25 mm exhaust, .15mm intake is ideal on a cold motor (or is it an engine?;-) )
Hope that helps a bit
E1 said:
Well, I've always been told it's an engine and a MOTOR is electric... to each their own. 
Yes, this helps out. Pictures would always be better.
I am guessing the shims are beneath the round "thing" (lifter for my terms). The engine is out of the car and will have the cams welded while out. The one cam went bad. You can see it all on the other thread by me. I appreciate your help!
