V-band Exhaust Clamp

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twr

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Has anyone tried this on their 3" exhaust? I'm tired of the leaking 3" header ****** I currently have. My thought is to use 2 short flex pipes with this connection between them. Thoughts? Opinions?

dtc-60-912300s_w.jpg
 

SHOWYA

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im going to be using them on my car. I do have one on my turbo and it is a tight clamp. Way easier and faster when need to take apart the exhaust.
 
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twr

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That's what I wanted to hear. Any time I need to drop the y-pipe, it's a complete PIA. I figured this would simplify it.
 

Off Road SHO

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Are those just flat flanges with a v-style clamp holding them? Will they still need a gasket or sealant if they are? Or do they have true "v's" on both sides that are then clamped by the V clamp. There are some more expensive alternatives.

Tom
 
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twr

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Are those just flat flanges with a v-style clamp holding them? Will they still need a gasket or sealant if they are? Or do they have true "v's" on both sides that are then clamped by the V clamp. There are some more expensive alternatives.

Tom

Tom,

This one has the weld on V's and the clamp has a mating V that slips over them to draw the 2 pieces together. Summit racing part number DTC-60-912300S

Thanks,
 

gmorrell

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There is an assembly trick with V-band clamps that most folks don't know about, that will improve their reliability and sealing.

They way they usually get assembled by muffler shop jockeys is the two pipe ends are flush with the inside (mating) surfaces of the flanges. This method puts all the onus on the clamping ring to keep the flanges both aligned and tightly sealed together.

Instead, weld on one ****** on the pipe with the pipe end protruding an 1/8" from the ****** sealing (flat) surface. Weld the other ****** with the pipe recessed inside a bit more than an 1/8" from the sealing surface. Now when you fit the flanges together, the protruding pipe end drops into the recess on the other ****** and will keep the flanges aligned, and all the clamping ring has to do is keep the flanges pressed together.
 

twr

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There is an assembly trick with V-band clamps that most folks don't know about, that will improve their reliability and sealing.

They way they usually get assembled by muffler shop jockeys is the two pipe ends are flush with the inside (mating) surfaces of the flanges. This method puts all the onus on the clamping ring to keep the flanges both aligned and tightly sealed together.

Instead, weld on one ****** on the pipe with the pipe end protruding an 1/8" from the ****** sealing (flat) surface. Weld the other ****** with the pipe recessed inside a bit more than an 1/8" from the sealing surface. Now when you fit the flanges together, the protruding pipe end drops into the recess on the other ****** and will keep the flanges aligned, and all the clamping ring has to do is keep the flanges pressed together.

Genius and it makes perfect sense. I will make sure that how I do it.

Thanks Gary!!! BTW - The car is almost back together. Only thing left to do is wait for the clamp to show up tomorrow and button up the exhuast.
 

shopartsnw

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I use stainless V-band clamps like that on our Mazda RX7 race car. The exhaust temps are up to 1800 or so, and I get no leaks. Best thing is, I can remove any component I need quickly and easily (replace mufflers, pull engine, etc).

BTW, I buy mine from a guy (wyntonm) on ebay. His prices are not the lowest, but his quality was always top notch. Even the flanges have a small relief cut into them so you can slip them on the end of the pipe before welding. His flanges have a flat mating surface, but I have never had a leaking issue. I bought standard T304 flanges for $19.99 plus shipping. Now I see he is selling a heavy model for mounting hangers for a little more. You could ask if you want the lighter ones.

Just my $.02, but I will forever use V-band clamps on exhaust when I can.

Mike
 
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yamahaSHO

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Terry, let me know how this goes... I would LOVE this as an option. I can't get to 2 of the 3 bolts on my y-pipe to catback flanges without 30 minutes of cussing up a storm.
 

twr

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Terry, let me know how this goes... I would LOVE this as an option. I can't get to 2 of the 3 bolts on my y-pipe to catback flanges without 30 minutes of cussing up a storm.

Will do. I can only get 2 of the 3 bolts tight on mine, the upper one is always a little loose and leaks bad. I have a similar idea for the down pipes too. I'll have to see what sizes I can get.
 

twr

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Here it is mocked up. I reworked the y-pipe connection. The shop that did the exhaust work previously did a **** poor job, it should flow a little better now. I'm pretty happy with the result. I'll have one of the welders at work tig everything up tomorrow.

img_1850_opt.jpg
 

twr

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Me too :sun:

After looking at the Y-pipe, I'm not going to mess with ****** clamps on the down pipes.

If you look at the picture, you can see why I had the Y-pipe off, oil film on the bottom of the car. Turns out my persitant oil leak was not the pan or front main after all. The oil pump to block gasket was leaking, but only at high oil pressure (higher rpms) After taking the car in to get emissioned last week, the leak decided to turn into a geyser. With the amount of smoke pooring out of the passenger side wheel well, you'd swear I was smoking ribs in the engine compartment.

Terry
 

twr

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Final pictures with everything welded up and installed. I also figured out or remembered why the oil pump was leaking. Shortly after I had the mechanic repair the first oil leak, the bottom bolt on the front tensioner bracket was missing (either was not installed or not torqued) That bolt happens to pass through the oil pump into the block.

exdone2.jpg


exdone1.jpg
 

yamahaSHO

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Terry, are you going to be free next week? I'll be there Wednesday - Monday. I work every day, but not after 4:30pm. I'll have some stuff to give you and I'd like to see about getting the same parts you did for this.
 

twr

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Terry, are you going to be free next week? I'll be there Wednesday - Monday. I work every day, but not after 4:30pm. I'll have some stuff to give you and I'd like to see about getting the same parts you did for this.

Yeah, I'll be around. Man it was so much easier installing the y-pipe. I bet I can take in off and put it back on in 15 mminutes if I had too.
 

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