Rear Tension Strut Rod Problem

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Roady94

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- I'm rebuilding the entire rear suspension on my 93ATX and ran into a problem where the forward end of the driver side TSR attaches to the frame.

There is a set of large cup washers crimped together, sandwiching the box where the TSR passes through. Very much like the attachment for the front TSR at the subframe - but a bit different. Anyway, there was a LOT of rust on this washer assembly - to the point that it came apart, and after wirebrushing, looks like this, and this.

I haven't found anything on this site about a Moog Problem Solver for this location, or for aftermarket rear TSR's. As you can see, there is not even enough material left for welding. Surprisingly, there is very little rust on the box istself.

QUESTION: I'm can probably pick up a new set of TSR's from a dealer, but what about these crimped cup washers? Anybody faced and solved this dilemma?

Thanks for any help.

- Jay
 

Ishodu

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The rods looks very bad, I the TPR kit I put in had new washers with it. I donno if they all come with new washers though.
 

Roady94

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- Thanks for the response Marcel. I have TPR bushings for both ends of the TSR ready to install. I also have the washers that come with the TPR kit. The crimped cup washer is my sticking point now.

Can't re-use these and can't go without. Solutions anyone?

- Jay
 

SHOZ123

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I've made cup washers before out of flat ones. I used a pipe fitting that was near the same OD as the washer and a press. Press the washer down slowly into the pipe fitting and it will cup right up.
 
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Yamaha V6

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I may have some new Ford ones in a box here, along with 1 or 2 NEW ford Strut Rods... Will check & get back to you shortly.
 

Yamaha V6

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I do have (2) new rear strut tension rods in-hand, PN E6DZ-5A952-B, list $72+ ea.; I have a number of Ford washers in-hand, but none with the larger diameter hole to slide over the larger diameter & stop at the bump on the rod - they slide over the threads only & stop at the beginning of the smooth part. These of course can be opened up very simply (will do that for you if you like).

If interested, let me know / make me an offer for the pieces.

More stuff at http://www.neshospecialists.com/inventory_selloff.htm
 

Racer X

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You know, it's funny that this thread is here... I just replaced these very items on my SHO today. Although you can look on the bright side... your tension arm didn't pull through the corroded washer during hard braking and almost **** you. :nut:

Dscn1530

I strongly suggest that you take Fred up on his offer of rear tension arms. I got mine from Kurt of SHO Parts Northwest, since all the parts from the left coast tend to be devoid of rust.

On the bushings, I got the Moog TPR kit for both sides, at the knuckle and at the chassis from Rock Auto. Moog part numbers:

MOOG Part # K8649 {Tie Bar Bushing Kit}
Rr Susp; Bar to Spindle; Sedan; Tie Bar Bushing Kit; Problem Solver; w/thermoplastic bushings

MOOG Part # K8675 {Tie Bar Bushing Kit}
Rr Susp; To Frame; Sedan; Tie Bar Bushing Kit; Problem Solver; w/thermoplastic bushings

On Rock Auto, search under strut rod bushing kit for your car.

I can imagine that this is overlooked on a huge number of Taurus' and Sable's out there, and let me tell you, those washers failing are a disaster waiting to happen.
 

Roady94

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- Paul, Fred and RacerX, thank you so much for the replies. Much appreciated.

I have not been as clear about this as I need to be. The washers shown in the links I provided are NOT the removable washers that come with a bushing kit or strut rod kit. The washers shown are afixed to the car from the factory. They reinforce the box on the body that the forward end of the TSR passes through and anchors to. The washers sandwich the backside of the box that the TSR passes through and are apparently crimped together from the factory. The TSR bushings then sandwich this cup-washer assembly, and the removable cup washers (as shown in RacerX's pic) then sandwich the bushings. The removable cup washers are in turn sandwiched by the TSR bolt and the swedged portion of the TSR.

Without these washers sandwiching the box, the front end of the TSR will not be located securely. I'll get a pic of the other side of the car and add that tomorrow.

Again, thanks for your efforts to understand me and help with the problem.

More to come.

- Jay
 

Yamaha V6

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If the hole through the control box is intact, the bushings squeeze the hole, the washers squeeze the bushings & everything's pretty tight back there. If the hole through the control box is rotted out, you'll want to weld reinforcements. I believe you can also look into using the Moog problem solver kit for the front strut tension rods to beef things up a bit, but again, only if the control box is still rigid. I think going that route's a bit overkill though.

Your tension rods show signs of corroding where the bushings normally live, that's why I offered the rods - the metal's typically a much smaller diameter than normal. See Hamal's picture for reference.

If you don't want NEW, I'd follow Hamal's suggestion & look for a good used set at least. :thumb:
 

Roady94

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- Thanks for the additional thoughts Fred. I didn't miss your mention of the TSR's and may take you up on them.

The back part of the box is solid, and the hole has not deformed. Pics to come as soon as I get home.

I thought about the Moog crossmember repair kit, but that won't work unless I can get some TSR's that have an adjustable range great enough to accommodate the thickness of the Moog part. There is not enough thread on the stock TSR's to allow this.

I'm not confident trusting the bushings alone to locate the TSR. I want to see something solidly connected to the box that will locate the bushing either by its small radius (as the Moog part does) or by the large radius (like the OEM assembly did.

If I can't get a solution here, I guess I'll need to fabricate. Odd that this isn't as common a problem as the front anchoring point. Particularly considering how far gone mine is - I seem to be well below the norm for rust-belt cars in terms of underside rust.

- Jay
 

Yamaha V6

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I was thinking you'd have to cut down the Problem Solver pieces, as they're WAY long for the fronts compared to the rears.

Can you fab a piece of steel about 1/4" - 3/8" thick as a plate w/ a hole through the proper size & weld the entire plate? You could do the same with a ring, but I don't think you'll have enough room to go around it very well, and a sq. plate might get 3 sides beaded pretty well.

Just a thought. Good luck!
 

Roady94

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- Okay. Since fabrication looks like my only practical option, I'm proposing a solution, offered here for critique.

Pic 1. Pic 2.

Two rectangular plates fabricated from 14 ga. steel - the thickness of the original washers. The plates will sandwich the back side of the existing bracket/box. After rust proofing the box surface, automobile panel adhesive will be used to strengthen the assembly and prevent water intrusion. Then the plates will be through-bolted together.

The exterior rings will be cut from 2.5" i.d. tubing, and the center locating "stub" will be from 1.5" i.d. tubing. Five pieces in all combined into two parts, from readily available materials and a little welding/grinding outside the vehicle prior to attachment.

Comments?

- Jay
 

boost_boy

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I do have (2) new rear strut tension rods in-hand, PN E6DZ-5A952-B, list $72+ ea.; I have a number of Ford washers in-hand, but none with the larger diameter hole to slide over the larger diameter & stop at the bump on the rod - they slide over the threads only & stop at the beginning of the smooth part. These of course can be opened up very simply (will do that for you if you like).

If interested, let me know / make me an offer for the pieces.

More stuff at http://www.neshospecialists.com/inventory_selloff.htm
Hey man, do you still have those strut rods? If so, i'll gladly take them off your hands.

Thanks,

Dee
 

93rev2sev

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- Okay. Since fabrication looks like my only practical option, I'm proposing a solution, offered here for critique.

Pic 1. Pic 2.

Two rectangular plates fabricated from 14 ga. steel - the thickness of the original washers. The plates will sandwich the back side of the existing bracket/box. After rust proofing the box surface, automobile panel adhesive will be used to strengthen the assembly and prevent water intrusion. Then the plates will be through-bolted together.

The exterior rings will be cut from 2.5" i.d. tubing, and the center locating "stub" will be from 1.5" i.d. tubing. Five pieces in all combined into two parts, from readily available materials and a little welding/grinding outside the vehicle prior to attachment.

Comments?

- Jay

Sounds like a fantastic idea. The only thing I would add would be to make the inside plate turn the corner and bolt it there also.
 

Roady94

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Sounds like a fantastic idea. The only thing I would add would be to make the inside plate turn the corner and bolt it there also.

- Thanks for taking the time, and for the creative addition. Re-assembly begins tomorrow.

Interesting aside. I bought many parts for the front and rear suspension rebuild from RockAuto. The rear TSR bushings (at the spindle) come with a dedicated front-side and back-side washer. One of the sets I recieved had two front-side washers and no back-side washer. The back-side washer has a different i.d. so I really needed it. I called RockAuto and spoke with Justin. He decided the best solution was to send me an entire new bushing set for the rear of the TSR at no cost to me! How's that for customer service?

ShoParts Northwest offered a set of used TSR's. I PayPal'd the money a few days ago but haven't heard anything back from them yet.

More to come.

- Jay
 

Racer X

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- Thanks for taking the time, and for the creative addition. Re-assembly begins tomorrow.

Interesting aside. I bought many parts for the front and rear suspension rebuild from RockAuto. The rear TSR bushings (at the spindle) come with a dedicated front-side and back-side washer. One of the sets I recieved had two front-side washers and no back-side washer. The back-side washer has a different i.d. so I really needed it. I called RockAuto and spoke with Justin. He decided the best solution was to send me an entire new bushing set for the rear of the TSR at no cost to me! How's that for customer service?

ShoParts Northwest offered a set of used TSR's. I PayPal'd the money a few days ago but haven't heard anything back from them yet.

More to come.

- Jay

I ordered a set of used TSR's from Kurt also, and they took about 6 days to make the trip cross country, but were clean and rust free. :thumb:

Good luck with everything.
 

Roady94

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I ordered a set of used TSR's from Kurt also, and they took about 6 days to make the trip cross country, but were clean and rust free. :thumb:

Good luck with everything.

- Most encouraging!! Thanks for that.

- Jay
 

shopartsnw

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We were up in Canada at a race over the long weekend and got back in town LATE Tuesday, but I pulled the parts tonight and they are going out in the morning.

Thanks again

Mike & Kurt
 

Roady94

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We were up in Canada at a race over the long weekend and got back in town LATE Tuesday, but I pulled the parts tonight and they are going out in the morning.

Thanks again

Mike & Kurt

- Yup. And I got your email today confirming this as well. Hope the race went well for you. Thanks for the update

- Jay
 

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