Need help with Codes P0625 and P065B

[DDLopes]

I took my car out today and had my charging system light come on. So while I was driving I switch my aero force gauges to monitor the voltage and it was bouncing around from 13.6 to 14.0. I ran the codes and got P0625 and P065B which are related to charging. Once I got home I tested my battery and have 12.6 volts with the car off and when the car is running it was at 14.4. I cleared the codes and will take the car back out to see if the code comes back on. Strange that when I was driving the volts would bounce around and go as low as 13.6. Makes me think the alternator is going but I don’t wanna rush to conclusions. Anyone ever have these code or an issue similar to this? Thanks for your time!!

 

[SHOdded]

what MY is your SHO? diagnostics may vary accordingly. i suspect tho that if terminal/connection cleaning does not work, you need a new alternator as you said.

always check battery/alternator with a digital tester like the solar ba9.

2014 Taurus, Police Interceptor - Sedan Workshop Manual

P0625​	Generator Field Terminal Circuit Low​	GO to Pinpoint Test D .​
P0626​	Generator Field Terminal Circuit High​	GO to Pinpoint Test D .​
P065B​	Generator Control Circuit Range/Performance​	If combined with P0625, GO to Pinpoint Test d . If P0625 is not present, GO to Pinpoint Test E .​

 

[DDLopes]

It’s a 2013 p/p with the BMS. I’m at ford now so they can do a BMS reset. The battery was disconnected for about 4-5 weeks. This may cause a BMS reset needed to get the system back to normal operations. But we’ll see what happens. Car starts fine, runs fine and on the way to the dealership my gauge was reading between 14.1 to 14.3 volts. Hoping this BMS reset gets me back on track!!

 

[DDLopes]

Ford wouldn’t do the reset due to it being tuned. My mechanic has a buddy that works at ford. He’s gonna see if the can do the reset procedure

 

[DDLopes]

So I decided to reset the BMS myself using Forscan. Unfortunately after the successful reset the check charging system light is still coming on. Car starts perfect and runs fine. Alternator is charging between 14.1-14.4 and engine off battery voltage is 12.6. I’m not sure where to check from here…. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for looking …

 

[SHOdded]

in a working system, you should see charging voltages drop to 13.5+V over time as the battery gets fully charged. staying at 14+V means the alternator is not fully charging the battery.

what is the SoC? if it is not close to 100%, you definitely have your work cut out - assuming you drive enough to top off the battery by the end of each drive.

At rest


fully discharged odyssey battery getting charged up

 

[DDLopes]

I don’t drive the car much. Most of the time when I do take it out it’s for 20-25 minutes drives at most. Now when I was driving back from getting the front end alignment the volts on my gauge was bouncing between 13.6 to 14.0 volts so that dip in voltage is the alternator charging most likely. Now when the car is sitting in the garage running that’s when I’m seeing 14.0-14.3. I’m also seeing that most of the time while I’m driving as well. This issue with the check charging system light started once the mechanic reinstalled the engine after installing my new turbos. But that night he did the 8hr don’t touch the car so the BMS could reset. Next morning everything was fine. I picked up the car drove it home 37 miles with zero issues. Fast forward a week later I take the car out to get a front end alignment and high a *** hole and the next think I know the check charging system comes on. I’ve continuously check the battery and alternator and everything appears to be fine. As does the way the car starts and drives. I’ve checked the plugs around the battery to ensure something didn’t get unplugged somehow but everything in that area seems to be fine. I had zero issues prior to the new turbo installation. So makes me think perhaps something my have been missed or became unplugged after I hit the *** hole. Hopefully the mechanic and I will get the opportunity soon to dive into it and resolve the issue soon. I was hoping to get on the Dyno soon!!!

 

[76FoMoCo]

Change the battery.

 

[DDLopes]

Battery is 2 years old and tested to have 669 cca out of 750cca. I don’t think the battery is junk but I’ll try to return it. I’m sure it’s still under warranty through ford.

 

[76FoMoCo]

I have had a few over the years do what you have. It's the battery.

 

[SHOdded]

even the best battery will start to sag if not fully charged regularly enough. just a question of how long before it becomes noticeable. i too have short drive cycles. even if the alternator is perfect, i would advise regularly topping up the battery on a standalone charger to prolong life. that or plan on replacing regularly. walmart platinum agm has 4 yr warranty as does odyssey. i would of course go with odyssey just because a) TPPL technology and b) significantly higher rated CCAs, but at nearly twice the price, you may be happier with
EverStart Platinum BOXED AGM Battery, Group Size 65 12 Volt, 750 CCA
still worth checking for a parasitic draw, of course, as the car/computers age.

 

[DDLopes]

I’ll be at Ford first thing Monday morning getting a new battery. I really hope that it resolves my issue! I’ve spent enough money on this car as most of us have! Lol

 

[DDLopes]

Ok, well this morning I went to Ford to exchange my Tough max battery for a new one. But, unfortunately the warranty was over by 7 days!!! LOL Yup and Ford wouldn't replace it because it was my second replacement. Anyways after spending $160 and clearing any codes as well as resetting the BMS with forscan I'm still getting the check charging system message along with the battery light staying on. This sucks!!!! Looks like I mine as well change out the alternator too. Sucks because the car starts fine, runs normal, battery has correct volts and alternator appears to be working perfectly with 14.3 volts this morning. But there's an issue somewhere. I just can't find it....sucks

 

[SHOdded]

looks like an expensive pothole could still be wiring to/from the alternator, or could actually be internal damage to the unit.

 

[DDLopes]

looks like an expensive pothole could still be wiring to/from the alternator, or could actually be internal damage to the unit.

Thanks that exactly what I needed. I wanna conduct a continuity test from the alternator side of the wiring harness to the pcm. Plus I wanna check all grounds connections to ensure everything is secured. I'm hoping for a bad connection somewhere or maybe bad continuity on one of the 3 wires related to the alternator plug. With any luck I'll have it resolved by next week. Thanks again

 

[kryptto]

@DDLopes - I went through some issues for a while - I barely drive my car - so I was improperly charging my car by hooking the charge terminals to the battery posts. Forgive me if I didn't see this in the responses - you should hook a maintenance charger to the battery positive terminal, and charger negative to the grounded part of the car, I use the Strut bolt. the other item to address the problems of leaving it on a charger was to make sure the hood is closed all the way. The theft detection and button to stop the car from remote starting is right next too the battery. If that doesn't get depressed the computer keeps waking up and checking the status. Make sure that switch is operational as well, I didn't even "test" mine - just replaced it - was cheap part.

The issue - the car might know the state of charge is lower than 90% but doesn't see your charger if hooked up like my example, the math being tracked by the cars computer starts to compound the battery health issues.

Replace the battery - take a meter with you and review the batteries health running not in the car battery check - "sometimes" batteries sit and they are not that healthy when you get them home. I proved that in Costco - not their fault per se - battery didnt get rotated to be sold quicker and the date sticker doesn't tell me its health.

Just some lessons learned, this car eats batteries - add the heat or cold of the environment - heat for me seems more destructive - 3 to 4 years is max IMO in the best circumstances.

 

[DDLopes]

Well looks like the car may be fixed. After doing a lot of research on this P0625 code when the alternator and battery seem to be fine it usually has something to do with the 3 wire plug to the alternator. I started moving the harness around to see if I noticed and breaks in the wire. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to unplug the harness from the alternator. After not seeing anything that could cause an issue I decided to leave it alone for 2 days and took it up to my mechanic this morning. And wouldn’t you know it I had no light on the whole ride up there (37 miles). Once I got there I informed my mechanic what I did and that the light hasn’t come back on. So he unplugged the harness from the alternator and immediately noticed the bottom pin of the plug had some corrosion on it. He disassembled the plug and cleaned it up while also adding some dielectric grease. There was also some corrosion on the bottom pin of the alternator as well. My mechanic thinks the alternator plug on the harness is missing the rubber seal. Which probably is causing the corrosion. I ordered a new pigtail. So far I’ve driven 80 miles with no codes or lights on. Thanks for all the help as usual !!!!

 

[SHOdded]

sweeeeet! hoping its a permanent fix. should always apply a dab of dielectric to the connections before reassembling. keeps out the nasties prevents corrosion and improves performance

 

[DDLopes]

I’m glad it seems to be good. Drove another 30 miles last night with no light on! So now I can start tuning the new turbos with Brad. Hoping for 600+ whp… but we’ll see…

 

[kryptto]

Good luck keep us in the loop.