2010 brake upgrade to 2013

[SHO-flames]

Hi, I have a 2011 non PP SHO (just hit 50K original miles). I posted back in 2016 about replacing my very inadequate original front brakes with larger 2014 Police Interceptor front brakes (calipers, rotors, brackets and semi-metallic pads). Everything purchased from RockAuto. I did not touch the rear brakes or master cylinder or brake lines. However I found out the hard way that you HAVE to replace the small copper washer when reconnecting the hose to the caliper. The benefits from just the front brakes alone were outstanding. My car is a daily driver (believe it or not with its low mileage) and it is tuned (Unleashed) but I don't track it. I think the "average" 2010-2012 SHO owner probably could get by with this change only. However about 2 years ago I upgraded the rear brakes as well with new 2013+ OEM PP parts. This definitely "helped" but not in any dramatic way. I am overall very happy with my brakes and feel they are what should have been put on the vehicle as standard. I'm sure a new master cylinder and booster would likely help but that starts to get a bit more complicated. Replacing just the brake parts at each of the 4 corners was VERY easy and VERY beneficial. Just my thoughts...

 

[Guzzisvt]

I put 250 mi on my EBC yellow stuff brake pads with the break-in material and went out to bed them in by doing five hard stops from 80 to 10 miles per hour. All went well with lots of smoke. Overall I'll give my brakes an eight mainly because of the EBC pads are a 10! The brake pedal can still be pushed to the floor while sitting stationary and pushing hard. This leaves a soft feel while doing heavy braking. This is one of the problems I've been chasing. The last thing to try is to replace is the ABS module. It'd be nice to know if it's actually leaking passed the bypass valves or what. I have a used one sitting on the shelf so it may be worth a try. One of my ideas to see if I can listen to the valve body and hear any flow through it.

Bottom line the EBC yellow stuff brake pads are great!

 

[jasong_10]

All the newer rotors are bigger dia and thicker also the rear are now vented rotors.

Okay, will definitely look at this when I need brakes next.

 

[SHOinVa]

- OK teach, I'm having everything replaced, all four calipers / rotors as well as master cylinder / booster with 2013+. I'm using Raybestos Police Interceptors calipers, if my research is correct that is the same thing as the PP brakes. I even had the wheel bearings replace just for good measure. So what do you think do I get an "A".

OK So the job is finally done, there was some paint work thrown in there so its been away for awhile. I picked the car up, no problem seems to brake better and all is well. Made a stop on the way home and noticed the brake lights are stuck on. Got home, reset the computer, poked around they will NOT shut off. Its been a long day so I pulled the battery cable and came in the house. I'm going to do a search but anyone got any thoughts. I need some help, a week from Monday we have a week long road trip and I can't go like this.
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[Lowrider1976]

OK So the job is finally done, there was some paint work thrown in there so its been away for awhile. I picked the car up, no problem seems to brake better and all is well. Made a stop on the way home and noticed the brake lights are stuck on. Got home, reset the computer, poked around they will NOT shut off. Its been a long day so I pulled the battery cable and came in the house. I'm going to do a search but anyone got any thoughts. I need some help, a week from Monday we have a week long road trip and I can't go like this.
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Check the brake light switch itself. That's where I'd start at least

 

[SHOinVa]

Check the brake light switch itself. That's where I'd start at least

Yup, I think that might be it, I can start the car without touching the brake peddle.

Sorry, they where late getting her back to me and I have to be on the road the week after Christmas, so I got a little stressed out, especially since getting into the Ford shop takes time.

This happens to me ALL the time, I get some work done and then something similar to the work breaks on the way home that has NOTHING to do with the work I had done. I mean all the time, LOL "What a long strange trip it continues to be"
Thanks for getting back to me.
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[Lowrider1976]

Yup, I think that might be it, I can start the car without touching the brake peddle.

Sounds like the culprit for sure then. Easy fix as long as you can find one lol

 

[Guzzisvt]

My mechanic had to replace my brake switch also. It's supposed to be a ratcheting mechanism that self-adjusting but they couldn't get the ratchet to go back in when they put in the new master cylinder. So they put in a new switch and ratcheted it out to match the new length of the master cylinder and pedal.

 

[SHOinVa]

My mechanic had to replace my brake switch also. It's supposed to be a ratcheting mechanism that self-adjusting but they couldn't get the ratchet to go back in when they put in the new master cylinder. So they put in a new switch and ratcheted it out to match the new length of the master cylinder and pedal.

IDK it really does not make since but the same thing happened to me, I don't know about the "ratchet" action. I stopped by first thing this morning and they pulled it out and put the new one in, about five minutes. I probably could have done it myself but the way my luck has been lately I figured I would let a professional do it.
BUT
The good news is the brakes are much better, its got a solid peddle feel, it feels like I may have had at least one questionable bearing and so far the switch is the only issue. There painting my rims Monday so I should be able to pick them up Tuesday. I do love that car, even if it does cost a fortune at times.
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[SHOinVa]

I wanted to wait until I had some seat time before I posted any feedback on my brake upgrade. Things where a bit hectic since I was having some paint work done also and the car was late getting finished for a December 27, departure for a Florida vacation. Bottom line, if you have a 2010-2012 SHO and you drive it the way it should be driven your crazy if you don't do this upgrade. I did not do any testing, but seat of the pants its clear the 13+ brakes are a significant improvement. I was unable to find a full set of "Performance Package" calipers but I was able to find a full set of Raybestos "Police Interceptors" calipers which are the same thing. They came pre-loaded with the PI pads, which I assume are pretty good. As posted before I did replace everything, so I'm not sure if I would have the same improvement just replacing the calipers/rotors. I'm sure the after market kits are better but, I will never track this car so this really falls into my sweet spot. I did spend the extra money for drilled/slotted rotors which I know are NOT needed but since I also had my wheel painted the whole thing came together nicely and looks fantastic. Thanks to everyone who helped me out, I really could not have done it without you. I'll post some pictures once I get her cleaned up from the trip.
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[Lowrider1976]

Kinda related to the brake light switch issue, which I know you weren't the first to experience a problem with. Check out this recent news:

https://www.autoevolution.com/news/ford-recalls-nearly-200000-mustangs-fusions-lincoln-mkzs-over-peculiar-issue-179539.html

 

[Tezcatlipoca]

I have a 2010 Taurus show with PP. The brakes have never been very good even when I switch to wilwoods on the front but I think the main problem is the master cylinder. I'm going to replace it with the 2013 master cylinder and vacuum booster. I checked into this a while back and also purchase the brake line required for this upgrade. Has anybody done this upgrade? Anything I should know before heading in to it?

What kind or what is the part # of Wildwood calipers did you replace your front with ? I have a 2010 PP that I want to upgrade calipers.

 

[DouglasB_SHO]

I wanted to wait until I had some seat time before I posted any feedback on my brake upgrade. Things where a bit hectic since I was having some paint work done also and the car was late getting finished for a December 27, departure for a Florida vacation. Bottom line, if you have a 2010-2012 SHO and you drive it the way it should be driven your crazy if you don't do this upgrade. I did not do any testing, but seat of the pants its clear the 13+ brakes are a significant improvement. I was unable to find a full set of "Performance Package" calipers but I was able to find a full set of Raybestos "Police Interceptors" calipers which are the same thing. They came pre-loaded with the PI pads, which I assume are pretty good. As posted before I did replace everything, so I'm not sure if I would have the same improvement just replacing the calipers/rotors. I'm sure the after market kits are better but, I will never track this car so this really falls into my sweet spot. I did spend the extra money for drilled/slotted rotors which I know are NOT needed but since I also had my wheel painted the whole thing came together nicely and looks fantastic. Thanks to everyone who helped me out, I really could not have done it without you. I'll post some pictures once I get her cleaned up from the trip.
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Thanks for the original info and update. I have a 2011 SHO non-PP and want to upgrade my brakes but don't want to do the brackets for Wildwoods. Sounds like the Raybestos PI calibers are the way to go if they bolt in cleanly. I'll look into it later this year when I have time and my garage again!

 

[aaron240]

What kind or what is the part # of Wildwood calipers did you replace your front with ? I have a 2010 PP that I want to upgrade calipers.

The part numbers are listed on my website www.schwartzep.com please let me know if I can assist further and get your mounting brackets and hardware in the mail.

 

[aaron240]

The part numbers are listed on my website www.schwartzep.com please let me know if I can assist further and get your mounting brackets and hardware in the mail.

 

[Tezcatlipoca]

Thanks, I appreciate the info. For Rotors what can I use? I have the stock 20X8 wheel. I would need a 20mm spacer between the rotor and the wheel?

 

[aaron240]

Thanks, I appreciate the info. For Rotors what can I use? I have the stock 20X8 wheel. I would need a 20mm spacer between the rotor and the wheel?

correct you would need a 20mm bolt on spacer if you plan to run stock wheels. You use the 2013+ front rotor, I use motorcraft brand plain rotors but lots of other people have used drilled and slotted and like them.

 

[SHOinVa]

Thanks for the original info and update. I have a 2011 SHO non-PP and want to upgrade my brakes but don't want to do the brackets for Wildwoods. Sounds like the Raybestos PI calibers are the way to go if they bolt in cleanly. I'll look into it later this year when I have time and my garage again!

I didn't do it myself, but it should be a bolt on job, there pretty much the same brakes only bigger. There are a couple of exceptions, the original dust shields won't fit, I've read on here you can bend them and get them to work but they left mine off. I would have tried to get them to work but that's fine, it's not a big deal. Also I guess the brake booster was very difficult to replace, I'm not even sure if there is any difference but I just replaced everything to be safe. Good luck, its worth it.

Here are some pictures of the finished product.

 

[DouglasB_SHO]

I didn't do it myself, but it should be a bolt on job, there pretty much the same brakes only bigger. There are a couple of exceptions, the original dust shields won't fit, I've read on here you can bend them and get them to work but they left mine off. I would have tried to get them to work but that's fine, it's not a big deal. Also I guess the brake booster was very difficult to replace, I'm not even sure if there is any difference but I just replaced everything to be safe. Good luck, its worth it.

Here are some pictures of the finished product.

Nice wheels too! They might go well on my Silver Ingot SHO. What brand are they?

 

[SHOinVa]

What brand are they?

They started life as "FK-Ethos RT-57", when I bought them, they where around $200 a piece and the lightest wheels I could find for under $1000 total. Somewhere there's a thread about it, short version is losing wheel weight noticeably improve the handling. However I never loved the way they looked, too much black for my taste, so after a couple of cases of curb rash I repainted them gray/silver. My new tires are run flats which I'm sure are heavier so I probably lost all my handling gains. So, I guess right now there kind of a custom wheel, but Discount Tire has them for $298. Hope that helps some.
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