Hey need advice about catalytic converters

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Rotem

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Hey so I got a 2015 ecoboost should I drill out the cats and use the same pipes just hallowed or should I just cut the cats out completely and weld a pipe instead or should I buy high flow cats?? What will be the best idea or what are the cons and pros in the 3 options?
 

Rotem

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Just buy catless downpipes. They are cheap. And larger in size. And keep the cats for reselling it or if you need to pass emissions
it won’t cause no issues with the turbo pressure correct?? And should gain some power not much but more then it is now?.
 

yaycandy

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it won’t cause no issues with the turbo pressure correct?? And should gain some power not much but more then it is now?.
Its one of the big 3 when it comes to power adders. Cats are a big bottleneck as with any restriction behind turbos on any platform. Turbos become more responsive then they are with cats up to the 400whp range. Get a tune along with catless pipes. Tune will disable the rear o2s from tattle tailing to the cel so the remote start will continue to work. As it dosnt work with an active cel
 

DadMobile

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Delete the belly cat run high flow catted DP’s. I wouldn’t mess with catless stuff with all the EPA shit going on.
 

76FoMoCo

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I would keep all your stock cat stuff. If you have to return it for resale it can get very expensive. By a good 93 tune and you will gain way more than messing with cats. For the 6-800 for a power pack from Gh or ortiz
 

SM105K

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I would keep all your stock cat stuff. If you have to return it for resale it can get very expensive. By a good 93 tune and you will gain way more than messing with cats. For the 6-800 for a power pack from Gh or ortiz
I agree 100%. I kept my stock down pipes and the stock 3rd cat and resonator. They are easily re-installed if I sell the car.
 

Rotem

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Its one of the big 3 when it comes to power adders. Cats are a big bottleneck as with any restriction behind turbos on any platform. Turbos become more responsive then they are with cats up to the 400whp range. Get a tune along with catless pipes. Tune will disable the rear o2s from tattle tailing to the cel so the remote start will continue to work. As it dosnt work with an active cel
I got everything from gearhead I’m just waiting on the cold intake( which I know won’t do much but I wanna do the tune after it comes rather then before) I see a bunch of catless Down pipes which ones you recommend because I see some that are 300 and some that go up to 1200 and also I can just use the cats extensions to take away the check engine right?
 

yaycandy

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I got everything from gearhead I’m just waiting on the cold intake( which I know won’t do much but I wanna do the tune after it comes rather then before) I see a bunch of catless Down pipes which ones you recommend because I see some that are 300 and some that go up to 1200 and also I can just use the cats extensions to take away the check engine right?

Honestly the cheapest, there is a build time now anyway. Cold air intake wont do anything but add noise. K&N drop in, and factory piping. You can make the intake make more power, but over 1000$ in my intake so far with genuine HKS components. Its not “worth” it to the other 99% of owners, in all seriousness
 

Rotem

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Honestly the cheapest, there is a build time now anyway. Cold air intake wont do anything but add noise. K&N drop in, and factory piping. You can make the intake make more power, but over 1000$ in my intake so far with genuine HKS components. Its not “worth” it to the other 99% of owners, in all seriousness
Yea I found out about the cold air intake after I ordered them I tried to cancel it within the first 3 hours of ordering them but they gave me ******** that it’s already getting worked on and it can’t be cancelled so I might as well put them on. I got the epp dual intake. And also what do you think about those to buy as downpipes
 

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FiveLeeter918

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Yea I found out about the cold air intake after I ordered them I tried to cancel it within the first 3 hours of ordering them but they gave me ******** that it’s already getting worked on and it can’t be cancelled so I might as well put them on. I got the epp dual intake. And also what do you think about those to buy as downpipes

ordered a set for a customer yesterday, was quoted 12-14 weeks
 

Rotem

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Its one of the big 3 when it comes to power adders. Cats are a big bottleneck as with any restriction behind turbos on any platform. Turbos become more responsive then they are with cats up to the 400whp range. Get a tune along with catless pipes. Tune will disable the rear o2s from tattle tailing to the cel so the remote start will continue to work. As it dosnt work with an active cel
Hey which one of those you think will be best
 

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SHOinVa

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- It all depends on what your trying to accomplish, if you want to get every once of performance out of your car, your going to race it, and enjoy working on it ditch the catt's. If your just looking to increase the performance on a car you want to drive more then work on get the catted down pipes. IMHO the PPE's are the best on the market by huge margin, there built to order in America and worth the extra price, my PPE's will out last my car, I also had them ceramic coated so it cut's down on the heat sink.

- I put a great deal of though into this, I don't work on my car, I didn't want a pipe that would throw codes on a stock tune, and I didn't want removed them if I decided to sale the car (I won't) but I didn't know that at the time. The PPE catted pipes have a little less performance increase, but for a car that's not going to be tracked it's not enough to notice. Most of the other pipes are cheaper but there built overseas and even with the performance catts, will throw a code on the stock tune.

- Anyway that's my two cents, good luck, if you have any questions, ask anyone.
Charlie
 

Deezuz

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No, I have a race car. This is just a daily that needs to be reliable. I want to stop cooking the PTU
 

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