2010 brake upgrade to 2013

[SHOinVa]

Thanks for the update, guess I don't need the fancy new brake line that's not available after all. My car is in the shop also but I'm just swapping from 2012 to 2013+ so hopefully the peddle feel will be fine.
C/

 

[Airborne]

I took mine to the shop Monday to have the brake booster / master cylinder and appropriate brake line installed. They installed the booster and master cylinder but the brake line shank was too short it wouldn't seat the flared. They went ahead and bent the existing pipe into submission. Unfortunately it didn't solve my soft brake problem. Mechanic suggested I try different pad material on the wellwoods. I'm going to buy some EBC yellow stuff for the front and rear. The wellwoods are so hard they weren't wearing but we're wearing down the wilwood rotor. More information to follow

I have completed the brake swap on 2 vehicles. I am going to remind everyone that to get proper brake pedal feel, you have to install the matched rear calipers. If you ignore this basic principle of the properly sized hydraulic system, the pedal feel will not feel appropriate and matched, but might even operate worse than before.

 

[SHOinVa]

I am going to remind everyone that to get proper brake pedal feel, you have to install the matched rear calipers.

**** For some reason the way you wrote that sentence makes me laugh, it makes me feel like I'm sitting in class, the bell rings and the teacher is reminding me were going to have a test, I have NOT studied for.

- OK teach, I'm having everything replaced, all four calipers / rotors as well as master cylinder / booster with 2013+. I'm using Raybestos Police Interceptors calipers, if my research is correct that is the same thing as the PP brakes. I even had the wheel bearings replace just for good measure. So what do you think do I get an "A".

Seriously thanks for the information, its going to be helpful to a lot of people.
C/

 

[Airborne]

LOL, A+ !

 

[Guzzisvt]

Now that I've driven my car a few days I do notice when I get in the pedal height is higher. After talking with mechanic about possible break friction I purchased a front and rear set of EBC yellow stuff and a new set of wellwood slotted dimple brake rotors. My brake road is debit show where from the excessively hard pads that came with my wilwoods. The brake rotor was wearing but not the pads! So there goes another $900

 

[Joshw0000]

Sorry to hijack this thread. I can post

I took mine to the shop Monday to have the brake booster / master cylinder and appropriate brake line installed. They installed the booster and master cylinder but the brake line shank was too short it wouldn't seat the flared. They went ahead and bent the existing pipe into submission. Unfortunately it didn't solve my soft brake problem. Mechanic suggested I try different pad material on the wellwoods. I'm going to buy some EBC yellow stuff for the front and rear. The wellwoods are so hard they weren't wearing but we're wearing down the wilwood rotor. More information to follow

Sorry to hijack this thread. I can post elsewhere if needed but I'm trying to order EBC Yellow Stuff pads for my Non-PP 2012 SHO and I'm finding conflicting part #'s online. Has anyone bought them for the 2010-2012's and have the part #'s handy? I think this is what I need:

Rear = DP41826R
Front = DP41873R or DP41767R

My braking system is all stock aside from Powerstop rotors.

 

[Guzzisvt]

Sorry to hijack this thread. I can post


Sorry to hijack this thread. I can post elsewhere if needed but I'm trying to order EBC Yellow Stuff pads for my Non-PP 2012 SHO and I'm finding conflicting part #'s online. Has anyone bought them for the 2010-2012's and have the part #'s handy? I think this is what I need:

Rear = DP41826R
Front = DP41873R or DP41767R

My braking system is all stock aside from Powerstop rotors.

According to the person I talked at EBC the rear pads for my 2010 PP is DP41826R

 

[Guzzisvt]

According to the person I talked at EBC the rear pads for my 2010 PP is DP41826R

No problem on hijacking the post. Anything that will help people to get there 2010,11,12 shows to stop faster it's okay. Too bad someone from Ford can't help us!

 

[Joshw0000]

According to the person I talked at EBC the rear pads for my 2010 PP is DP41826R

I went ahead and ordered the DP41767R (Front) and DP41826R (Rear). Basically every website I looked at had those 2 part #'s as what I need and the DP41767R seems to have a little more surface area than the DP41873R so I'm hoping it fits my car. 54mm height / 82mm center hole diameter, compared to 47mm height / 68mm center hole. I'll let everyone know in a week or so.

 

[Joshw0000]

Finally got the Yellow Stuff DP41767R (Front) and DP41826R (Rear) installed on my 2012. Now to take it easy for a couple hundred miles while they bed in. It's so nice driving the SHO again. She sat for about 2 weeks and ended with a new battery as well.

 

[RonPorter]

Finally got the Yellow Stuff DP41767R (Front) and DP41826R (Rear) installed on my 2012. Now to take it easy for a couple hundred miles while they bed in. It's so nice driving the SHO again. She sat for about 2 weeks and ended with a new battery as well.

Follow the recommended bedding procedure, as I recall folks having issues with the Yellows if you don't. I've never had them myself.

I have some little traveled, paved roads in the country near here that I use for pad and rotor bedding!

 

[Joshw0000]

Follow the recommended bedding procedure, as I recall folks having issues with the Yellows if you don't. I've never had them myself.

I have some little traveled, paved roads in the country near here that I use for pad and rotor bedding!

Thanks. So far I've only put about 35 miles on the new brakes with gentle stops. Once I get closer to 100 miles (hopefully after work), I'll take it on the highway and do Fade 1. My car never sees the track, so that should be plenty for me.

This is from EBC's website:

"EBC Yellowstuff – has been reformulated during 2020 to the new grade known as DM 3068 and is now a longer-lasting more powerful brake compound and for this reason, it is no longer optimum for track use. Bed in times are simply too long to be acceptable. Having said that if you LIKE Yellow and want to use it at the track be prepared for the longer bed in times detailed below.

EBC Yellowstuff Bed-in Procedure
Fast Street use Pre Bed Fade 1 – drive 50 to 100 miles on Public road/highway normal driving to allow the pads to mate up to the disc and establish full contact followed by 8 stops from 80 mph to 30 mph at 300 yard intervals and then coasting allowing the brakes to cool.
If using Yellowstuff on the track ….

FADE 2 – After the basic street pre bed above performed on the road or at the track if installed there …..Perform 10 medium pressure snubs at the track from 80-20mph leaving 300 meters between each snub (approx 0.4g decel)
Allow pads to cool for 15 minutes minimum after coasting to the pits allowing brakes to cool a little.
FADE 3 – Perform 6 high-pressure snubs from 90-20mph with a maximum acceleration between consecutive snubs. (approx 0.8g decel, or 80% of an emergency stop)
Allow the brakes to fully cool for a minimum of 1 hour before the race session."

I've never actually used Yellow Stuff pads. I've used Green Stuff in the past and I've always been happy with them. I think the Yellow ones are going to do everything I need from them.

 

[Guzzisvt]

I installed my new EBC yellow stuff pads front and back yesterday. Along with new wilwood dimpled discs on the front. It took me 6 hours with the hardest part being the bolts holding the front caliper brackets on. Took everything I had and more to get them loose. My old front discs had worn down .020"and the dimples were almost gone. The yellow stuff come with a break in coating which gave me trouble installing the wilwood calipers on the new rotors but with a little nudging from a rubber mallet I got them on and I could turn the tire with moderate stiction. I drove it 5 mi and check the rotor temperature ,it was just over a hundred degrees so all is well. I'll go through their breaking procedures which consists of 200 miles of moderate braking followed by the actual bed in procedures of high speed near stops with cooling before parking. I'll update you after this procedure is completed on how my brakes are doing.

 

[jasong_10]

This thread has me interested . . . but have some questions.

Are both the front and rear 13+ brake setups (pads, rotors, calipers, hoses) different, or just the rear?

And just want to verify, upgrading said pads, rotors, calipers, and hoses won't do any good without upgrading the master cylinder and booster?

 

[Guzzisvt]

This thread has me interested . . . but have some questions.

Are both the front and rear 13+ brake setups (pads, rotors, calipers, hoses) different, or just the rear?

And just want to verify, upgrading said pads, rotors, calipers, and hoses won't do any good without upgrading the master cylinder and booster?

My 2010 is a PP model with over 150k on it. I always had a soft pedal and took it to the Ford dealer years ago for a fix. When I say a soft pedal I mean you can't slam on the brakes, if you hold on the brake pedal it will slowly go to the floor. Their solution was new rear calipers. It must have made the problem better or else I would have had them do something else at the time. Overtime the problem arose again or was never really taken care of. So I decided to get wilwoods when they became available but only on the front. I still have the soft pedal so I bought a 2013 brake master cylinder and booster. They sat in my basement for many years as I was going to do the work myself but was concerned about bleeding the ABS module. I finally found a mechanic that would put my non model specific parts on. The main thing I noticed was in the morning and the pedals started at a higher position but if you stand on the brake pedal it will eventually go to the floor, but it stops. He had some experience with Pat's diction when he tried ceramics on his truck and suggested that since the wellwoods pads were wearing away the rotor and maybe I try a different pad so I went with what I know on my motorcycles, EBC. I did replace the rear rotors with drilled discs years ago, that is a general statement the brakes on the car have never been very good and I'm just looking for better.

 

[351Blueblood]

This thread has me interested . . . but have some questions.

Are both the front and rear 13+ brake setups (pads, rotors, calipers, hoses) different, or just the rear?

And just want to verify, upgrading said pads, rotors, calipers, and hoses won't do any good without upgrading the master cylinder and booster?

The +13 brakes on my 2010 work great with stock 2010 master

 

[jasong_10]

Would I benefit any from just upgrading to the 13+ pads/rotors/calipers/hoses and keep my stock '12 master and booster?

 

[351Blueblood]

Would I benefit any from just upgrading to the 13+ pads/rotors/calipers/hoses and keep my stock '12 master and booster?

Of course you would. I didn't HAVE to do hoses.

 

[jasong_10]

Of course you would. I didn't HAVE to do hoses.

Okay, thank you for the information.

 

[351Blueblood]

Okay, thank you for the information.

All the newer rotors are bigger dia and thicker also the rear are now vented rotors.