SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
I did. If you look at my build thread it explains that process. It is super easy.
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RDU Blackstone Laboratories Test Results
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I did. If you look at my build thread it explains that process. It is super easy.
Iqoniq
SHO Member
I found it at Ecoboostforums. Build thread? Hmm, gonna go fishing. You people've got a ton of knowledge bombs lurking in here. 
SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
I found it at Ecoboostforums. Build thread? Hmm, gonna go fishing. You people've got a ton of knowledge bombs lurking in here.
https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/sm105ks-ownership-performance-maintenance-thread.138235/
Lots of information here. Next time I change my PTU fluid I am going to add the drain plug as well, even though I have a PP.
Iqoniq
SHO Member
Man ... that's a build thread for really real!
SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
Its taken couple of years, but there is a ton of info in there. Lots of it is real world application, and lots of it is tried and true information from prominent members.
Sharpcoolman
SHO Member
Out of curiosity is there a reason why I couldn’t use this drain valve instead of a plug? https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...I7AwcROxoCP-cQAvD_BwE&store=6701&gclsrc=aw.dsThis is for the PTU. 1 inch in front the seam where the case COVER meets the HOUSING. I've drilled 3 of these in this location.
The RDU can be drilled right on that case rib.at the bottom rear.
I wouldn't worry about aluminum shavings too much. The hardened hypoid gears will emulsify the very soft aluminum to the point where its more of an antiwear additive like zinc. The gears wont even know its there if there's just a small shaving floating around.
Plus I always run some brakekleen or atf thru the sump to drain out any sediment or shavings.
I use the same drain plug that our transmissions use. It's a 1/8 27 NPT.
Tools needed
- Drill
- Assorted drill bits from about 1/8 to 21/64. Make sure they're sharp. This is important.
- 1/8-27 NPT Tap (requires 21/64 drill bit)
- drain pan
- sockets, torch, penetrating oil, etc to remove front downpipe
I usually drill it with the gear oil still in the sump, with the bit poked through a plastic bag to shield the drill. But you can extract most of it before drilling if you wish.
Start with the 1/8 bit, drilling slow speed with steady pressure on the drill. Most of your shavings should look like a steady helix or heli(?) vs many little aluminum flakes. Make sure you're drilling straight. If its almost straight, you can usually correct it as you step up the drill bit size.
I would have at least 4 gradual bit steps from 1/8 to 1/4 to 19/64 to your final 21/64 size for your tap.
The only bit size that's definite is the final 21/64. The others are round about incremental sizes.
The gear oil will keep the bits lubed. After your first bit, let the gear oil drain out, make sure your fill cap is removed.
Remember, sharp bits, slow speed, steady straight pressure on the drill.
Next, the Tap.
So you've got a nice straight 21/64 hole. Get your tap and t bar style tap handle (do not use a tap handle that uses the ratchet, use the T)
Press the tap firmly and straight as you are turning. Keep pressure and Do not rely on the tap to pull itself until you are sure you have about 4 good full turns/threads tapped.
After you get your 4 first turns, My tap method is a 1/4 turn forward (cutting) and 1/2 turn back to clear the tap. After about 6-7 full turns, you can back the tap out, clean it off, and then complete the threads. After this you should be test fitting your drain plug every time you tap 2-3 additional full turns. You don't want to tap too far and bottom out your drain plug. You probably want about 4 threads of the plug exposed AFTER it's tightened up. That will give you a good safe sealing margin for when you future fluid service.
Flush some brakekleen through, then some fresh ATF or gear oil. Put your drain plug in, use a little sealer if you like, snug it up, fill with about 16-18oz of 75w140 gear oil, make sure your magnet is clean. Remove/clean your vent with some brakekleen, and reinstall your downpipe.
If your fluid is really nasty, I run 2oz of ATF with 14oz of 75w140synthetic gear oil. That mix is safe to run for 5000-7500 miles or 1 engine oil change. Ive run this mix, and so is my buddy whose Ptu had 4oz of fluid in it (the rest was black metalic paste). I have him running this mix permanently to dislodge the paste, changed every 15k. He likes to idle his car all the time, roasting the ptu from the cats.
I ran 4oz Amsoil ATF with 2oz of Amsoil engine flush with 10oz of Amsoil 75w140 in his car as a Hail Mary to see if we could clean save his Ptu. (I don't recommend this mix long term.) He drove that for a week (~300miles). Came back, I popped out the drain plug and all the gunk sludge that was stuck the top of the case had been broken down and flowed right out. I also like to drain it warm. I flushed some atf through to clear the sump, and put 2oz ATF in with his 75w140. I change this ever 2 oil changes for him. The fluid is looking pretty decent. Very little metal on the magnet, fluid looked dark brown, similar to the pictures of mine posted here. I anticipate his next change will be even cleaner, since im sure we're still cleaning up the gunk.
The pics here are from mine in 2017 when I drilled the plug. I extracted 10oz of fluid and filled it about 7500miles before installing the drain plug and taking these pictures. I flushed the sump. Reflilled. With Amsoil 75w110. This was 2017. 20k miles later oil still looked clear as the day I put it in.
The RDU was done in 2016, fluid had 100k on it in and look brand new. But that cover was a PITA, lowering the exhaust, cleaning the surfaces of the diff with little clearance between the subframe. Arrrrggggh! So I drilled for a drain plug to ensure I would never have to do this again.
-Fill the PTU with 75w140syn
(Im catless, using 75w110syn as an experiment)
-Fill the RDU with 75w90, 75w85 or 80w90. (Synthetic)
Interval: every 2-4 oil changes or 15-40k miles. Depending on climate, abuse level and IDLE time. Idle time being most important, abuse second. If you're catless, you can sleep better with the least maintenance. If you drive aggressively, idle alot in a hot climates you should be changing every 2 oil changes or 15-25k miles.
Anyway, I hope this helps anyone that wants to be able to service, maintain or possibly save their PTU or RDU.
I'm going to make a fluid maintenance guide at some point.
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
Sharpcoolman
SHO Member
Practically speaking it is a good idea to put a drain on it but the idea of drilling into something make me a bit nervous
luigisho
SHO Member
That's most people, but they get over it just to be able to drain effectively. No catastrophes I've read about yet!
Sharpcoolman
SHO Member
Any reasons why the above valve wouldn’t work?
RonPorter
SHO Club of America
I never wanted to drill the V6 MTX trans, as a steel plug into aluminum didn't sound like a good idea. Now, doing something like a timesert, or other female steel housing inserted and sealed into the case, then a plug or valve screwed into that, sounds like a better way to me.
Zpak
Es Aich Oh!
That’s why I’m digging these @Ecoboost_xsport plugs. Just unscrew the cap. No more in and outs in the aluminum.
Ecoboost_xsport
SHO Member
I still have a few sets left from my initial run if there are any takers...$30 shipped for a set of 3 (RDU, PTU, Trans). DM me for paypal info...
luigisho
SHO Member
I'm not that familiar with it, but if is is dimensionally similar to the size everyone else is using then it sounds ok. I would only be concerned with diameter of the plug and length protruding from the case. If they are workable then get a drill and see what happens! (always easier to cheer for someone else's wallet)
Sharpcoolman
SHO Member
It is same thread size if it doesn’t work I will return it to autozone will post pics and update if it does work though
Ecoboost_xsport
SHO Member
I've never had a lot of luck with petcock style valves, tbh. I know they are on radiators though and seem to work ok there, so I guess it could work. Not much different from my design, if you think about it. I'm not 100% confident in the sealing of the petcock and I think you'll have to drill 1/4 NPT vs the smaller 1/8 NPT. Not a deal breaker, just a larger hole to drill...
EDIT: Nvr mind...just saw that it is 1/8 NPT...so I guess it fits. Ensure that you safety wire the arms of that petcock valve to ensure it doesn't vibrate or back off. Make it foolproof. Would suck if it just slowly spun off while driving and just dump all the oil out.
RonPorter
SHO Club of America
Yep, that would be my only doubts about a valve, unless you lock it down. Your solution sounds similar to what I mentioned above, and seems like a great way to go.
I know this is an old thread, but to anyone who might be interested on how I fill the PTU. This pump can be bought anywhere. its used for **** spraying, cost round $30 dollars. You can find them on Amazon or Rural King, TSC. Get the jumpers for the pump to hook up to your car battery. Unscrew fill plug, pop in the hose, put other hose in bottle, connect plug "jumper cables are about 8 feet" while under the car, watch oil level go down in bottle, disconnect plug from jumper cables to pump while still under car, and pull hose out, ***** fill plug back in, that easy. Takes me about 15 minutes to drain and fill. I've been doing my 2013 Taurus sel AWD for last 6 years this way. And just did it today on my 2018 SHO.
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yaycandy
Aerospace Engineer
Yea, pumps are cool man. No squeeze squeeze no ow my arm man
I use a pump like a girl , we’re not that fancy …yet
yaycandy
Aerospace Engineer
Did you ever send them your trann y fluid? I send them motor oil all the time but maybe i should take a sample of my trann y fluid and send it in. But then again i dont think i ever had it changed. May be why my trann y is acting up
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