SM105K's Ownership/Performance/Maintenance Thread

First things first. Thank you Shodded for helping me with the information below. His knowledge and experience with this platform is immense.

The first three posts by me in this thread are broken down by the following.

Post one: General knowledge of the SHO and what to expect.

Post two: The Story of M, my SHO. I posted all of my mods, current mods, and issues. I also have added the links, pics, and videos of my build within this build thread kinda like cliffnotes.

Post three: These are my Goals for "M". Power and Track Goals. I achieved some, and didn't achieve others. These are still updated.

So you bought an SHO? Good, welcome to the club. First things first. This is a performance vehicle regardless of the Taurus badges. It is twin turbo, and all wheel drive. That being said, there are more maintenance costs and more opportunities to spend money the wrong way with your SHO.

JohnBlueGT is a member and he also made an informative video as well for new buyers. His channel is highly informative.



So do you have the original window sticker? Do you know if your car is a PP car or Non-PP car? You ask what is a PP? It relates to the Performance Package that some SHO's came factory with. Easy way to figure out if you have a PP equipped car is look at the window sticker. Below is my factory sticker. As you can see under optional equipment, there is a "SHO PERF PKG w/ALCANT WHL. So I have a PP. But what if I don't have a sticker? Don't fret I got you.



First look for the 20 inch "flower" wheels. Most PP cars came with them. Look for the alcantara wrapped steering wheel, and pop the trunk and look for a spare tire. If you see a no spare tire, and tire pump instead, you most likely have a PP car. There are numerous other things like TC button, 3.16 final drive ratio, PTU cooler, trans cooler, upgraded pistons, better brake pads ect. If you still can't figure it out....God have mercy on you, go to the Ford Dealership and have them run an Oasis report.

Unless your SHO is brand new or a couple of years old (2017+), I would highly recommend changing all the fluids. That would include the engine oil, the coolant, power transfer unit fluid, rear diff fluid, and I would start cycling trans fluid. Wait what? I just bought this car.... HA! Yep those pesky more maintenance costs already hitting you in the pocket.

ENGINE OIL!!!!!!!!!!!! Please read the article below. It is one of the most important things you can read and be proactive with your car.

https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/resolving-low-speed-pre-ignition/

Change your oil with a quality oil and has been tested and formulated for Turbo Gasoline Direct Injected engines. Also do not skimp of your oil change frequency either. I personally change mine everything 3k miles. Its super cheap and I use an extreme maintenance protocol with my SHO. Most will say every 5k miles. I agree but would not exceed 5k miles.

Next up is coolant. Coolant is very important with the 3.5 Ecoboost engine. Not only does it help regulate temp, it also acting as a lubricate for the water pump. It conditions seals, and this allows coolant do stay out of bearings within the water pump. The 3.5 EB engine has an internal water pump (underneath the timing cover). Though these pumps don't often fail, when they do it is catastrophic for the engine. However there are signs if the water pump is failing. It will start weeping coolant so start paying attention.

I would change my coolant every 30k miles miles too. In a "normal" climate say the Midwest Ford recommends a 50/50 coolant to distilled water mix. In the Great North where it gets extremely cold Ford recommends a 60/40 coolant to distilled water mix. In the South (I am from Phoenix) where it can get extremely hot, I run what Ford recommends at 40/60 coolant to distilled water mix.

Another thing to check out is the charge piping to make sure there are no boost leaks. This includes the blow off valves (BOV). They have a diaphragm that can be compromised and leak boost. They are simple to check. One electric plug and two bolts. Look to see if there are any tears in the diaphragm. This may actually be your first mod, if you like the whoosh that BOV make when they vent to atmosphere. Below is what you will need to complete this mod.




PTU! Understanding why it fails and ways to prevent failure.

Yes that thing. Here is a very good explanation by a member on here named Mr.HighCaliber.


"PTU's don't fail at least not from a power handling perspective. These only fail from lack of maintenance. Spun bearings and galling of the gears from lack of lubrication.

High Heat dries up the lighter oil molecules in the lube, which causes more heat due to lack of lubrication (thermal runaway) which leads to the remaining gear oil turning to thick black paste which clogs up the vent tube in the ptu which cause pressure buildup in the ptu which forces the remaining, non-congealed fluid out past the shaft seals. Now the only left is a thick paste thats easily flung off of the gears, sticking only to the case. After this chain of events, the bearings run dry and begin to fail, next are the gears. Tolerances widen or things begin to sieze. Bearing and gear noise are usually the first signs of mechanical failure.

But the PTU internals are stout. The weakest part of our powertrain is the RDU Atc coupler. (The electronic coupler in the rear differential). At least in terms of tq capacity and power handling."

The being said, you will need to change your PTU fluid.

FordTechMakuloco shows you the jist of the procedure here.



If you have a 2010-2012 and 13 + non PP you will need a Mighty Vac device to suck out the PTU Fluid. Refill directions are the same as below.

If you have a 2013+ PP this is the easiest way to change the fluid.

What I did, what I used, and how I did it. You can do it yourself, or you can have a shop do this.

I would buy some Redline Lightweight Shockproof fluid off Amazon, 2 and a half feet of 1/4 id rubber fuel hose, some aluminum foil, and this thread to them below.

https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,8081.msg144207.html#msg144207

I would bring aluminum foil to cover the downpipes and 02 sensor. Drain the PTU fluid and have them catch the fluid in a pan. Measure to see how much comes out, and the how bad shape the fluid is in. See if there are any chunkies in the fluid. Metal shavings on the magnet drain plug are normal. It is a direct gear drive system with the PTU. The aluminum foil will protect everything and clean up will be a snap. Clean and re-install the drain plug.

Route the hose down from near the brake booster. Then tell them to remove vent hose from the top of the PTU and slip that 1/4 inch fuel line hose onto the vent nipple. The hose will be snug and should not slip off. Use that to fill refill the PTU with fluid. This will take some time. The PTU holds roughly 18 oz of fluid. Remove the hose, put the PTU vent hose back on. It's that simple. Should take less then an hour.

RDU: Here is a thread all about replacing the RDU Fluid.

https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=1708.0

Trans: You will hear us refer to trans fluid cycling.

Again FordTechMakuLoco again shows you the jist of the procedure.



This is the 5 quart out and 5 quart in method. Use Mercon LV. The 6f55 transmission in our SHO's like clean fluid. The trans is a sealed unit so you cannot service the filter like other trans. So to keep the fluid clean, I trans fluid cycle. I do it every oil change. I am under the car, and trans fluid is dirt cheap. Pull the trans plug and roughly 5 quarts will come out. Measure and add back the 5 quarts of new Mercon LV fluid. If you do this 5 times, you will have roughly 90 percent newer fluid. Then swap every other oil change.

TUNE: After you have done all of this....then I journey down the road of tuning your SHO. Below is a quick summary of how this is done.

Do your diligence when selecting a tuner/tune for your SHO. I recommend AJPTurbo (Brad) and Gearhead (Matt) however there are great tuners out there as well. STAY AWAY FROM LMS if you have 13+ SHO and STAY AWAY FROM SSI.

If you are running a 3 bar map sensor tune, install the map sensor first. Follow the directions from your tuner. You will need to plug in the device and find your vehicle strategy number. You will send that to your tuner. He will then send you the tune. Upload the tune onto your device (your device will come with instructions on how to do this). Take your device to your vehicle plug it in and turn on your accessory power. Personally I would drop all of your windows at the time. The device will power up. Go to the "program vehicle" menu. Select whatever tune the your tuner sent you. Click configure/program vehicle. DO NOT OPEN ANY DOOR UNTIL YOUR DEVICES SAYS PROGRAM COMPLETE! IF YOU DO, IT WILL BRICK THE SYSTEM. If it is the first time loading a tune into your vehicle, it will download your stock tune to the device. This can be reinstalled later if you need it. Continue following the prompts. You will have to turn the ignition off and on (DO NOT START THE ENGINE) during this process, relax and follow the prompts. Loading the tune should last 7 to 10 mins. After your device says "program complete", you can start the vehicle. Your vehicle is now tuned. Depending on tuner you may have to data log. Following your tuner's directions on that as well.

Did you purchase a Gearhead Intercooler? The install video is below.

 

What creates those spikes on the Dyno graph?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

This is the story of my SHO. I call her "M". I liken her to Judi Dench's character "M" in the James Bond franchise. Refined yet can kill, plus the first owner was a older aged (65) woman who in my mind from the stories I heard about her is a bad ass. She traded my SHO in on a 2018 Shelby 350 GT at age 70! Like I said, she is a bad ass.

I go into depth about the mods that I have done, plan to do, along with the failures and triumphs I have had with "M". I talk about dyno sessions, track sessions, different fuels, different tunes pertaining to different fuels, and chasing that elusive 400 all wheel horsepower mark and 11 second quarter mile time slip. Enjoy.

I bought my 2013 PP SHO in May of 2018 with 51K on her. Car was bone stock, and owned by the older lady I spoke of.

I took purchase and immediately started modifying the car. This is everything so far.

Exterior: Tint, Rear End Leveled (Yes I cut the stock PP springs) Installed H&R Springs (I later cut the rear H&R Springs), Full Paint Correction, Car Pro Ceramic Coat, Car Pro Gliss Top Coat, Trunk De-badged, Devires Custom Burnt Copper Color "Turbo Bull" Stickers Over Ford Emblems, Color Matched All Chrome Trim Pieces, Tail Lights Professionally Painted/Tinted, Custom Mesh Grill (Ford Emblem Removed)

Before and Bone Stock:


Next was dark tint, paint correction, ceramic coating, and leveled rear:



Next was H&R springs:



As she sits now. Curva Concept C7's, Chrome Delete, Trim Paint Match, Smoked Tail Lights, Custom Grill, sitting on cut rear H&R Springs.













Maintenance: PTU fluid was changed at 60K miles I went with Mobil One Gear Oil. This was replaced at 68K miles with Redline Light Weight Shockproof Fluid. RDU Fluid was replaced at 69K miles with Redline Ligh Weight Shock Proof Fluid. Brake Fluid Flush (mine was red). Coolant and new T-Stat replaced at 69.5K miles. I change my oil every 3K miles religiously with Castrol Edge (buy it at Walmart, it is dirt cheap). O2's sensors changed at 69.5K miles.

Misc Mods: Forscan hacked the Navigation System (turned it on), Added the Intelligent AWD Gauge.

Current Performance Configuration: AJPTurbo E30 Tune on a LiveWire TS, 391 HP and 494 TQ, Gearhead Intercooler, PPE Catted Down Pipes, 3rd Cat and Stock Resonator Delete, Custom Mid Pipes with Magnaflow Resonator, Dicunzolo Gen 2 Trans Mounts, 542 Plugs, K&N Drop In (stock air box), Vented BOV's, H&R Springs, Powerstop Rotors and Pads, Curva Concept C7's wrapped in Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber.

Post 2135: Powerstop Brake Install and Red Fluid.....

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...o-your-sho-today.130526/page-107#post-1499353

Post 93: Gearhead Intercooler Install

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...-performance-maintenance-thread.138235/page-5

Post 101: Tricks I used for the GH Intercooler install.

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...-performance-maintenance-thread.138235/page-6

Post 121: H&R spring install and insights.

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...-performance-maintenance-thread.138235/page-7

Post 177: The street light grand prix is open for business.

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...-performance-maintenance-thread.138235/page-9

Post 277: ALL CHROME TRIM MUST DIE!

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...performance-maintenance-thread.138235/page-14

Post 283 & 284: Paint correction and Curvas installed. Post 296 paint matched trim goes on
long with the AD Gen 2 TQ Mounts.

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...performance-maintenance-thread.138235/page-15

Post 291: Technical Data on my Curva C7's.

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...performance-maintenance-thread.138235/page-15

Post 322: PPE catted DP's install on with Heat Wrap.

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...performance-maintenance-thread.138235/page-17

Post 369: 3rd Cat and stock resonator delete. Custom Mid Pipes and Magnaflow Resonator installed along with videos.

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...performance-maintenance-thread.138235/page-19

Post 395: MSD coil and new spark plug install.

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...performance-maintenance-thread.138235/page-20

Post 441: Custom Painted Tail Light before and after.

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...performance-maintenance-thread.138235/page-23

Post 452: Progressive pics of the various ride heights of my SHO. From stock to cut H&R Springs.

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...performance-maintenance-thread.138235/page-23

Post 466: Pics of the custom grill install

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...performance-maintenance-thread.138235/page-24

Post 542: EPP Noise Maker Delete install and under air Dam GH IC drain access hole mod.

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...performance-maintenance-thread.138235/page-28

Post 576 and 579: Clean/Prep and Ceramic Coating of my Curva Concepts C7s.

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...aintenance-thread.138235/page-29#post-1538596

Below is my documented 6F55 transmission failure at 68K miles.

Post 41: How my trans failed.

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...-performance-maintenance-thread.138235/page-3

Trans Failure Update: After inspection, the snap ring on the 3-5-R drum decided to exit stage left. It failed and wiped out the trans. The good thing is there was not a wave disc failure.

Post 60: Findings of trans failure.

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...-performance-maintenance-thread.138235/page-3

New Trans Update: New trans is in the car. $4887.13 out the door with a 3 year/unlimited mileage warranty from Ford. Also, the trans shop was nice enough to change out the PTU and RDU fluids with Redline Lightweight Shockproof Fluid at 68,900 miles.

Post 67: Trans replacement.

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...-performance-maintenance-thread.138235/page-4

Future Fluid Maintenance:
At 70K miles I starting following this schedule until the car leaves my life. Mine is going to be a severe duty fluid cycle/change routine. Not a daily, but it has a E30 tune and will be driven VERY spirited as much as I can. Phoenix's heat wreaks havoc on cars and fluids, so a severe duty maintenance plans keep my mind at ease.

Oil and Trans Fluids will be changed at the same time, along with the PTU and RDU.

Oil: every 3k miles (Castrol Edge with either a Motorcraft or Mobil 1 filter)
Trans Fluid: every 3k miles 5 quarts out, 5 new quarts in. (Mercon LV)
Brake Fluid: every 10K miles. Changed at 69K
PTU Fluid: every 10k miles (Redline Lightweight Shockproof Fluid) Changed at 69K.
RDU Fluid: every 30k miles (Redline Lightweight Shockproof Fluid) Changed at 69K
Coolant: Every Year. 50/50 mix. Changed at 69K

This may seem over kill however it is not really expensive. I buy my oil and filter from Walmart. Castrol Edge is dirt cheap. Usually less then 40 bucks. A case of Mercon LV is pretty cheap on Amazon (68 bucks). Redline is cheap (18 bucks on Amazon for quart bottles).

 

I believe Brad has made a touch over 400hp on his on SHO that he had, so I'd say it's doable for you in the right conditions. Without a doubt though, you'll get a 12.7 as you sit because that DA is a real killer!

 

On to the GOALS tune only!

I have a couple of goals I want to hit tune only. Tune only meaning stock intake and full stock exhaust, (K&N Drop In, Plugs, and AJPTurbo E30 tune)


Goal #1: I want to break into the 12's full weight with a quarter tank of gas. I went 13.082 at 109.42. Sixty foot was a terrible 1.98. Temp was 92 degrees, and the DA was 4002.2 feet. My IAT's were in the 170's so it was hot. First time at the track, so trying to get her to launch in boost without pushing was a struggle for me. I will figure that it out, that was on me. Once the temp comes down, and we can getting the timing that is being pulled back, I realistically see a 12.7/12.8? What do you think? Goal: 12.7/12.8 @ 110 (tune only)




Goal Update: She went 12.85 at 105.47 in 3700 feet D.A. in 96 degree heat.



Goal Update: Track was trash, numerous oil downs. D.A. was 2900 feet and the temp was 78 degrees. Ending up running a 12.61 @109.23. Best MPH was 111.78 with a 12.66.

Still warm with crap D.A. Still not leaving like I want it too. Once it gets "cold here" I will try again.



Goal Update: Back to the track. Track was good, 58 degrees, 1200 D.A, Ended up running a 12.56 @108.98. With the new brakes, I was able to leave on 1 PSI of boost and she 60 footed 1.777! I did have an issue with a boost reference hose that was creating a boost leak.



Goal #2: I want to see if I can crack 400 awhp (tune only maybe if I have to use C20). I went to the dyno and in 105 degree heat with IAT's in the 170's again she cranked out 366 hp and 414 tq to the tires. Brad has even said, he has never see air temps that high in any other tune he was written. So in 60 degree air, timing that is being pulled, and maybe more boost (if Brad says its okay) do you think 400awhp is attainable?

I WAS NOT ABLE TO OBTAIN THIS GOAL TUNE ONLY.


First Dyno Session: 366 HP and 414 TQ 105 degree heat on pump 91 tune.



Update: 391 HP and 470 TQ on 91 octane with Torco T85 E30 mix in 90 degree heat. Just came up short. I am extremely happy with the results. Once again when it gets cooler I will strap her to the dyno and crack that 4oo AHWP tune only mark.



Since my SHO is starting down the road of bolt ons I want to adjust the goals.

Update: 388 HP and 463 TQ with the new Gearhead Intercooler. I made the same HP with 2 psi less boost. Seems my turbos are worn out, and it is showing. It is struggling to keep up at Redline. Made the same power, but with less boost.



Update: 391 HP and 494 TQ final numbers after AJPTurbo E30 tune, Gearhead Intercooler, PPE Catted Downpipes, Custom Magnaflow Resonator.



New Bolt On Goals

Bolt On Track Goal #1: I want to run in the 11's at full weight with a quarter tank of fuel at all times. That means zero weight reduction! My car has already cut a 1.77 sixty foot tune only!

Bolt On Power Goal #2: I want to crack 440 awhp and 530 tq with my current mods along with the Gearhead Turbos and XDI-35 HPFP.

 

With that mph 12.7s should be possible, just need some cooler air.

 

I agree, if I can get the car in the 1.80's sixty foot, she should click off at least a 12.80.

 

Well, John Blue on youtube has tuned his 2017 to 389HP and 480ftlb @ wheels with a livernois 93 octane tune, 3 bar, thermostat, plugs, catless DP's, Livernois exhaust and cold air intake. So it is doable but the exhaust side needs to be opened up. TQ is what you want anyway. HP is just for top speed and you cannot use that anyway unless you want to go to jail.

 

I talk to John, I have been watching his channel since day one. I wish my TQ was up, but heat, hight IAT's (which pull timing), and terrible DA are factors to track times and dyno pulls. I am going to take a run at 400 awhp with a tune only. Cooler air, more timing, more boost, might not get me there...but it will get me closer.

I might head to the track on Saturday. I will check the DA a couple of hours before, and if it is in the low 3000 I will hop in the car and let her eat.

 

Went to the track, got to her to leave better than before. 93 degrees 3900 DA. Maybe I will run a bracket race league? Could only get her to leave at around 2 psi of boost at the track before she started pushing. On the street she gets it with almost 5 psi on the launch...so I will start tinkering. Number: 122

Check one off the box. Excited to see what she does when it gets colder. I expect a 12.50 now.

 

Awesome!!! I'd say 12.5's are doable after a pass like that in those conditions.

 

I certainly think it is doable now.

 

I am trying for 400 whp on mine as well, but just shy of it. Not sure if I want to push for that last 10 hp though lol

 

John, what do you have to get to 390?
Did I see that you have down pipes, plugs, 3 bar, tstat and tune? What fuel are you using?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

That mod list is pretty accurate for what I have. Full exhaust system and intake as well. I run 93 octane currently.

 

He comes out of hiding! HA!

 

Have you been on a dyno to get those numbers, I'm in Arkansas and I'm told there isn't an awd dyno in the entire state. What do you think of the new aFE? Intake that claims to make extra hp in our cars?

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I updated the goals. Hopefully tomorrow we should see some cool stuff.

 

First post updated.

New Numbers:

12.61 @ 109.23
391HP and 470TQ

 

Sooooo close!