SM105K's Ownership/Performance/Maintenance Thread

Discussion in 'Generation 4 - General Discusson' started by SM105K, Sep 19, 2018.

  1. SM105K

    SM105K Land Yacht Pilot Supporting Member

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    So you bought an SHO? Good, welcome to the club. First things first. This is a performance vehicle regardless of the Taurus badges. It is twin turbo, and all wheel drive. That being said, there are more maintenance costs and more opportunities to spend money the wrong way with your SHO.

    So do you have the original window sticker? Do you know if your car is a PP car or Non-PP car? You ask what is a PP? It relates to the Performance Package that some SHO's came factory with. Easy way to figure out if you have a PP equipped car is look at the window sticker. Below is my factory sticker. As you can see under optional equipment, there is a "SHO PERF PKG w/ALCANT WHL. So I have a PP. But what if I don't have a sticker? Don't fret I got you.

    window sticker.jpg

    First look for the 20 inch "flower" wheels. Most PP cars came with them. Look for the alcantara wrapped steering wheel, and pop the trunk and look for a spare tire. If you see a no spare tire, and tire pump instead, you most likely have a PP car. There are numerous other things like TC button, 3.16 final drive ratio, PTU cooler, better brake pads ect. If you still can't figure it out....God have mercy on you, go to the Ford Dealership and have them run an Oasis report.

    Unless your SHO is brand new or a couple of years old (2017+), I would highly recommend changing all the fluids. That would include the engine oil, the coolant, power transfer unit fluid, rear diff fluid, and I would start cycling trans fluid. Wait what? I just bought this car.... HA! Yep those pesky more maintenance costs already hitting you in the pocket. In post three of this thread I talk about PTU fluid change, RDU fluid change, and trans fluid cycling. What, how, why, and what I personally use and suggest follows down below.

    Next up is coolant. Coolant is very important with the 3.5 Ecoboost engine. Not only does it help regulate temp, it also acting as a lubricate for the water pump. It conditions seals, and this allows coolant do stay out of bearings within the water pump. The 3.5 EB engine has an internal water pump (underneath the timing cover). Though these pumps don't often fail, when they do it is catastrophic for the engine. However there are signs if the water pump is failing. It will start weeping coolant so start paying attention.

    I would change my coolant every 30k miles miles too. In a "normal" climate say the midwest Ford recommends a 50/50 coolant to distilled water mix. In the Great North where it gets extremely cold Ford recommends a 60/40 coolant to distilled water mix. In the South (I am from Phoenix) where it can get extremely hot, I run what Ford recommends at 40/60 coolant to distilled water mix.

    Another thing to check out is the charge piping to make sure there are no boost leaks. This includes the blow off valves (BOV). They have a diaphragm that can be compromised and leak boost. They are simple to check. One electric plug and two bolts. Look to see if there are any tears in the diaphragm. This may actually be your first mod, if you like the whoosh that BOV make when they vent to atmosphere. Below is what you will need to complete this mod.



    I also go into depth about the mods that I have done, plan to do, failures and triumphs I have had with my SHO. I talk about dyno sessions, track sessions, different fuels, different tunes pertaining to different fuels, and chasing that elusive 400 all wheel horsepower mark and 11 second quarter mile time slip. Enjoy.

    I bought my 2013 PP SHO in May of 2018 with 51K on her. Car was bone stock, and owned by a 65 year old lady that bought it brand new. She traded it in on a 2018 GT 350.

    I took purchase and immediately started modifying the car. This is everything so far.

    Exterior: Tint, Rear End Leveled (Yes I cut the springs, they have since been replaced with H&R Springs), Full Paint Correction, Car Pro Ceramic Coat, Car Pro Gliss Top Coat, Trunk De-badged, Devires "Turbo Bull" Stickers Over Ford Emblems. Next Up: Color match all chrome trim pieces.

    Performance: AJPTurbo E30 Tune on a LiveWire TS (391 Hp and 470 TQ), Gearhead Upgraded Intercooler, 542 Plugs, K&N Drop In (stock air box), Vented BOV's, H&R Springs, Powerstop Rotors and Pads.

    Maintenance: PTU fluid was changed at 60K miles I went with Mobil One Gear Oil. This was replaced at 68K miles with Redline. RDU Fluid was replaced at 68K miles with Redline. Brake Fluid Flush (mine was red). Coolant and new T-Stat replaced at 69.5K miles. I change my oil every 3K miles religiously with Castrol Edge (buy it at Walmart, it is dirt cheap). O2's sensors changed at 69.5K miles.

    Misc Mods: Forscan hacked the Navigation System (turned it on), Added the Intelligent AWD Gauge.

    Future Plans: Turbo Replacement, HPFP, 20x9.5 Wheel and 275 Tire Combo, DP's with third cat replacement will round out the car.

    Trans Failure: At 68,xxx miles my trans failed.

    Trans Failure Update: After inspection, the snap ring on the 3-5-R drum decided to exit stage left. It failed and wiped out the trans. The good thing is there was not a wave disc failure.

    New Trans Update: New trans is in the car. $4887.13 out the door with a 3 year/unlimited mileage warranty from Ford. Also, the trans shop was nice enough to change out the PTU and RDU fluids with Redline Lightweight Shockproof Fluid at 68,900 miles.

    At 70K miles I will follow this schedule until the car leaves my life. Mine is going to be a severe duty fluid cycle/change routine. Not a daily, but it has a E30 tune and will be driven VERY spirited as much as I can. Phoenix's heat wreaks havoc on cars and fluids, so a severe duty maintenance plans keep my mind at ease.

    Oil and Trans Fluids will be changed at the same time, along with the PTU and RDU.

    Oil: every 3k miles (Castrol Edge with either a Motorcraft or Mobil 1 filter)
    Trans Fluid: every 3k miles 5 quarts out, 5 new quarts in. (Mercon LV)
    Brake Fluid: every 10K miles. Changed at 69K
    PTU Fluid: every 15k miles (Redline Lightweight Shockproof Fluid) Changed at 69K.
    RDU Fluid: every 15k miles (Redline Lightweight Shockproof Fluid) Changed at 69K
    Coolant: Every Summer 40/60 blend and Winter 60/40 blend. T-Stat: Yearly. Changed at 69.5K

    This may seem over kill however it is not really expensive. I buy my oil and filter from Walmart. Castrol Edge is dirt cheap. Usually less then 40 bucks. A case of Mercon LV is pretty cheap on Amazon (68 bucks). Redline is cheap (18 bucks on Amazon for quart bottles).

    I have since changed from Mobil 1 over to Castrol Edge.
    On to the GOALS tune only!

    I have a couple of goals I want to hit tune only. Tune only meaning stock intake and full stock exhaust, (K&N Drop In, Plugs, and AJPTurbo E30 tune)


    Goal #1: I want to break into the 12's full weight with a quarter tank of gas. I went 13.082 at 109.42. Sixty foot was a terrible 1.98. Temp was 92 degrees, and the DA was 4002.2 feet. My IAT's were in the 170's so it was hot. First time at the track, so trying to get her to launch in boost without pushing was a struggle for me. I will figure that it out, that was on me. Once the temp comes down, and we can getting the timing that is being pulled back, I realistically see a 12.7/12.8? What do you think? Goal: 12.7/12.8 @ 110 (tune only)


    Goal Update: She went 12.85 at 105.47 in 3700 feet D.A. in 96 degree heat.


    New hotter tune has gone in. Running 91 octane with Torco T85 mix for E30. I have a new number in my head. Sub 12.50 at 110.


    Goal Update: Track was trash, numerous oil downs. D.A. was 2900 feet and the temp was 78 degrees. Ending up running a 12.61 @109.23. Best MPH was 111.78 with a 12.66.

    Still warm with crap D.A. Still not leaving like I want it too. Once it gets "cold here" I will try again.

    Goal Update: Back to the track. Track was good, 58 degrees, 1200 D.A, Ended up running a 12.56 @108.98. With the new brakes, I was able to leave on 1 PSI of boost and she 60 footed 1.777! I did have an issue with a boost reference hose that was creating a boost leak. I will post all about it in here if you scroll down.

    Goal #2: I want to see if I can crack 400 awhp (tune only maybe if I have to use C20). I went to the dyno and in 105 degree heat with IAT's in the 170's again she cranked out 366 hp and 414 tq to the tires. Brad has even said, he has never see air temps that high in any other tune he was written. So in 60 degree air, timing that is being pulled, and maybe more boost (if Brad says its okay) do you think 400awhp is attainable?

    I WAS NOT ABLE TO OBTAIN THIS GOAL.



    First Dyno Session: 366 HP and 414 TQ 105 degree heat on pump E30 tune.


    Update: 391 HP and 470 TQ on 91 octane with Torco T85 E30 mix in 90 degree heat. Just came up short. I am extremely happy with the results. Once again when it gets cooler I will strap her to the dyno and crack that 4oo AHWP tune only mark.

    Since my SHO is starting down the road of bolt ons I want to adjust the goals.

    New Bolt On Goals

    Bolt On Track Goal #1: I want to run in the 11's at full weight with a quarter tank of fuel at all times. That means zero weight reduction! My car has already cut a 1.77 sixty foot tune only! That should get better with the H&R springs and bolt on's in the future.

    Update: Went back to the dyno. She cranked out 388 hp and 468 tq again. I am having boost issues. So I will delve into them over the next couple of weeks.

    Update: Seems the turbos are tired and the new IC has made it worse. Looking into replacing the stock turbos with new units or rebuild them with billet wheels.


    Bolt On Power Goal #2: I want to crack 440 awhp and 530 tq with my AJPTurbo E30 tune, GH Intercooler, new turbos, and PPE Catless DP's. Further down the road I will install the Upgraded HPFP.



    Just food for thought.
     

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    Last edited: May 31, 2019
  2. xFallenxCripplex

    xFallenxCripplex SHO Member

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    What creates those spikes on the Dyno graph?

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
     
  3. SM105K

    SM105K Land Yacht Pilot Supporting Member

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    From I can see, there was no smoothing for the graph.

    I am updating this post for PTU and RDU maintenance, along with Trans Fluid Cycling as well.

    The PTU is an axle driven power unit. The axle spins a bunch of direct drive gears that transfers power to the rear wheels. If the car in is motion, the PTU's gears are moving. Ford put a "lifetime fluid" in the PTU however it is complete junk. The down pipes cook the fluid and if you have a non PP car, your PTU is not cooled. So it is best to change the fluid.

    If you have a 2013+ PP this is the easiest way to change the fluid since it has a drain plug. If you have a Non PP car you will need a Mighty Vac type of device and hose to suck out as much fluid.

    What I did, what I used, and how I did it. You can do it yourself, or you can have a shop do this.

    I would buy some Redline Lightweight Shockproof fluid off Amazon, 2 and a half feet of 1/4 id rubber fuel hose, some aluminum foil, and this thread to them below.

    https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,8081.msg144207.html#msg144207

    I would bring aluminum foil to cover the downpipes and 02 sensor. Drain the PTU fluid and have them catch the fluid in a pan. Measure to see how much comes out, and the how bad shape the fluid is in. See if there are any chunkies in the fluid. Metal shavings on the magnet drain plug are normal. It is a direct gear drive system with the PTU. The aluminum foil will protect everything and clean up will be a snap. Clean and re-install the drain plug.

    Route the hose down from near the brake booster. Then tell them to remove vent hose from the top of the PTU and slip that 1/4 inch fuel line hose onto the vent nipple. The hose will be snug and should not slip off. Use that to fill refill the PTU with fluid. This will take some time. The PTU holds roughly 18 oz of fluid. Remove the hose, put the PTU vent hose back on. It's that simple. Should take less then an hour.

    YOU DO NOT NEED TO HAVE THE EXHAUST REMOVED IF YOU HAVE A PP CAR.


    RDU Fluid Swap.

    This can be done two different ways. You can remove the plug and use a Mighty Vac to suck out a much fluid as possible. Then refill the unit.

    I personally would remove the rear cover and inspect the ring and pinion gear. I would be looking for broke or chipped teeth, along metal shavings. While doing this I would drill and top the case and add a drain plug on the bottom for future fluid swaps. Make sure you clean the cover and use a good silicon gasket product when re-installing the rear cover. Again, I recommend Redline Lightweight Shockproof Fluid.



    Trans Fluid Cycling


    As for trans fluid cycling. Our cars use Motorcraft Mercon LV. Before doing anything, make sure you follow the proper instructions on how to properly check the trans fluid. To be able to check the trans fluid, you have to remove the air filter box top and bottom. It isn't a big deal to remove. After you have verified that the trans level is in proper specs you can proceed.

    Get the car in the air securely. Remove the trans plug and let it start draining. Here is the kicker, you will only get about 5 quarts out of the pan. I personally measure the amount that comes out. Replace the plug, and add back the amount that was drained with new fluid. You will have to do this about 5 to 6 times (do it every oil change) and roughly 90 to 95 percent of the old fluid will be replaced.

    These trans don't like dirty fluid it seems. So keep it clean. It is cheap and easy.

    Does Your AC/Heater Smell Funky?

    Another thing people forget is the crap in the ducts. When you turn the AC on do you get a weird smell? That is usually oragnic matter breaking down in the ducts behind the filter. I remove the filter, leave the lid off, and turn the system on high. This will blow leaves and dirt out. I simply vacuum it up. However, that organic material sitting in there year after year makes the system starting smelling funky. After I get everything out, I open the hood the spray a liberal amount Lysol in both intake ducts while keeping the system running. Yes your car will smell like Lysol for a bit, but it will kill the funk in the ducts.
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2019
  4. limited02

    limited02 SHO Member

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    I believe Brad has made a touch over 400hp on his on SHO that he had, so I'd say it's doable for you in the right conditions. Without a doubt though, you'll get a 12.7 as you sit because that DA is a real killer!
     
  5. SM105K

    SM105K Land Yacht Pilot Supporting Member

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    It was hot and the DA was terrible. I need to shallow stage the car and find that sweet spot so she doesn't push.
     
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  6. Lostneye

    Lostneye SHO Member

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    With that mph 12.7s should be possible, just need some cooler air.
     
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  7. SM105K

    SM105K Land Yacht Pilot Supporting Member

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    I agree, if I can get the car in the 1.80's sixty foot, she should click off at least a 12.80.
     
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  8. Jeff2017

    Jeff2017 SHO Member

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    Well, John Blue on youtube has tuned his 2017 to 389HP and 480ftlb @ wheels with a livernois 93 octane tune, 3 bar, thermostat, plugs, catless DP's, Livernois exhaust and cold air intake. So it is doable but the exhaust side needs to be opened up. TQ is what you want anyway. HP is just for top speed and you cannot use that anyway unless you want to go to jail.
     
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  9. SM105K

    SM105K Land Yacht Pilot Supporting Member

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    I talk to John, I have been watching his channel since day one. I wish my TQ was up, but heat, hight IAT's (which pull timing), and terrible DA are factors to track times and dyno pulls. I am going to take a run at 400 awhp with a tune only. Cooler air, more timing, more boost, might not get me there...but it will get me closer.

    I might head to the track on Saturday. I will check the DA a couple of hours before, and if it is in the low 3000 I will hop in the car and let her eat.
     
  10. SM105K

    SM105K Land Yacht Pilot Supporting Member

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    Went to the track, got to her to leave better than before. 93 degrees 3900 DA. Maybe I will run a bracket race league? Could only get her to leave at around 2 psi of boost at the track before she started pushing. On the street she gets it with almost 5 psi on the launch...so I will start tinkering. Number: 122

    Check one off the box. Excited to see what she does when it gets colder. I expect a 12.50 now.
     

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  11. limited02

    limited02 SHO Member

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    Awesome!!! I'd say 12.5's are doable after a pass like that in those conditions.
     
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  12. SM105K

    SM105K Land Yacht Pilot Supporting Member

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    I certainly think it is doable now.
     
  13. JohnBlueGT

    JohnBlueGT New Member

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    I am trying for 400 whp on mine as well, but just shy of it. Not sure if I want to push for that last 10 hp though lol
     
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  14. stevelaw_2000

    stevelaw_2000 Member

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    John, what do you have to get to 390?
    Did I see that you have down pipes, plugs, 3 bar, tstat and tune? What fuel are you using?

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
     
  15. JohnBlueGT

    JohnBlueGT New Member

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    That mod list is pretty accurate for what I have. Full exhaust system and intake as well. I run 93 octane currently.
     
  16. SM105K

    SM105K Land Yacht Pilot Supporting Member

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    He comes out of hiding! HA!
     
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  17. stevelaw_2000

    stevelaw_2000 Member

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    Have you been on a dyno to get those numbers, I'm in Arkansas and I'm told there isn't an awd dyno in the entire state. What do you think of the new aFE? Intake that claims to make extra hp in our cars?

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
     
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  18. SM105K

    SM105K Land Yacht Pilot Supporting Member

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    I updated the goals. Hopefully tomorrow we should see some cool stuff.
     
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  19. SM105K

    SM105K Land Yacht Pilot Supporting Member

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    First post updated.

    New Numbers:

    12.61 @ 109.23
    391HP and 470TQ
     
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  20. limited02

    limited02 SHO Member

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    Sooooo close!
     
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