So you bought an SHO? Good, welcome to the club. First things first. This is a performance vehicle regardless of the Taurus badges. It is twin turbo, and all wheel drive. That being said, there are more maintenance costs and more opportunities to spend money the wrong way with your SHO. So do you have the original window sticker? Do you know if your car is a PP car or Non-PP car? You ask what is a PP? It relates to the Performance Package that some SHO's came factory with. Easy way to figure out if you have a PP equipped car is look at the window sticker. Below is my factory sticker. As you can see under optional equipment, there is a "SHO PERF PKG w/ALCANT WHL. So I have a PP. But what if I don't have a sticker? Don't fret I got you. First look for the 20 inch "flower" wheels. Most PP cars came with them. Look for the alcantara wrapped steering wheel, and pop the trunk and look for a spare tire. If you see a no spare tire, and tire pump instead, you most likely have a PP car. There are numerous other things like TC button, 3.16 final drive ratio, PTU cooler, better brake pads ect. If you still can't figure it out....God have mercy on you, go to the Ford Dealership and have them run an Oasis report. Unless your SHO is brand new or a couple of years old (2017+), I would highly recommend changing all the fluids. That would include the engine oil, the coolant, power transfer unit fluid, rear diff fluid, and I would start cycling trans fluid. Wait what? I just bought this car.... HA! Yep those pesky more maintenance costs already hitting you in the pocket. In post three of this thread I talk about PTU fluid change, RDU fluid change, and trans fluid cycling. What, how, why, and what I personally use and suggest follows down below. Next up is coolant. Coolant is very important with the 3.5 Ecoboost engine. Not only does it help regulate temp, it also acting as a lubricate for the water pump. It conditions seals, and this allows coolant do stay out of bearings within the water pump. The 3.5 EB engine has an internal water pump (underneath the timing cover). Though these pumps don't often fail, when they do it is catastrophic for the engine. However there are signs if the water pump is failing. It will start weeping coolant so start paying attention. I would change my coolant every 30k miles miles too. In a "normal" climate say the midwest Ford recommends a 50/50 coolant to distilled water mix. In the Great North where it gets extremely cold Ford recommends a 60/40 coolant to distilled water mix. In the South (I am from Phoenix) where it can get extremely hot, I run what Ford recommends at 40/60 coolant to distilled water mix. Another thing to check out is the charge piping to make sure there are no boost leaks. This includes the blow off valves (BOV). They have a diaphragm that can be compromised and leak boost. They are simple to check. One electric plug and two bolts. Look to see if there are any tears in the diaphragm. This may actually be your first mod, if you like the whoosh that BOV make when they vent to atmosphere. Below is what you will need to complete this mod. I also go into depth about the mods that I have done, plan to do, failures and triumphs I have had with my SHO. I talk about dyno sessions, track sessions, different fuels, different tunes pertaining to different fuels, and chasing that elusive 400 all wheel horsepower mark and 11 second quarter mile time slip. Enjoy. I bought my 2013 PP SHO in May of 2018 with 51K on her. Car was bone stock, and owned by a 65 year old lady that bought it brand new. She traded it in on a 2018 GT 350. I took purchase and immediately started modifying the car. This is everything so far. Exterior: Tint, Rear End Leveled (Yes I cut the springs, they have since been replaced with H&R Springs), Full Paint Correction, Car Pro Ceramic Coat, Car Pro Gliss Top Coat, Trunk De-badged, Devires "Turbo Bull" Stickers Over Ford Emblems. Next Up: Color match all chrome trim pieces. Performance: AJPTurbo E30 Tune on a LiveWire TS (391 Hp and 470 TQ), Gearhead Upgraded Intercooler, 542 Plugs, K&N Drop In (stock air box), Vented BOV's, H&R Springs, Powerstop Rotors and Pads. Maintenance: PTU fluid was changed at 60K miles I went with Mobil One Gear Oil. This was replaced at 68K miles with Redline. RDU Fluid was replaced at 68K miles with Redline. Brake Fluid Flush (mine was red). Coolant and new T-Stat replaced at 69.5K miles. I change my oil every 3K miles religiously with Castrol Edge (buy it at Walmart, it is dirt cheap). O2's sensors changed at 69.5K miles. Misc Mods: Forscan hacked the Navigation System (turned it on), Added the Intelligent AWD Gauge. Future Plans: Turbo Replacement, HPFP, 20x9.5 Wheel and 275 Tire Combo, DP's with third cat replacement will round out the car. Trans Failure: At 68,xxx miles my trans failed. Trans Failure Update: After inspection, the snap ring on the 3-5-R drum decided to exit stage left. It failed and wiped out the trans. The good thing is there was not a wave disc failure. New Trans Update: New trans is in the car. $4887.13 out the door with a 3 year/unlimited mileage warranty from Ford. Also, the trans shop was nice enough to change out the PTU and RDU fluids with Redline Lightweight Shockproof Fluid at 68,900 miles. At 70K miles I will follow this schedule until the car leaves my life. Mine is going to be a severe duty fluid cycle/change routine. Not a daily, but it has a E30 tune and will be driven VERY spirited as much as I can. Phoenix's heat wreaks havoc on cars and fluids, so a severe duty maintenance plans keep my mind at ease. Oil and Trans Fluids will be changed at the same time, along with the PTU and RDU. Oil: every 3k miles (Castrol Edge with either a Motorcraft or Mobil 1 filter) Trans Fluid: every 3k miles 5 quarts out, 5 new quarts in. (Mercon LV) Brake Fluid: every 10K miles. Changed at 69K PTU Fluid: every 15k miles (Redline Lightweight Shockproof Fluid) Changed at 69K. RDU Fluid: every 15k miles (Redline Lightweight Shockproof Fluid) Changed at 69K Coolant: Every Summer 40/60 blend and Winter 60/40 blend. T-Stat: Yearly. Changed at 69.5K This may seem over kill however it is not really expensive. I buy my oil and filter from Walmart. Castrol Edge is dirt cheap. Usually less then 40 bucks. A case of Mercon LV is pretty cheap on Amazon (68 bucks). Redline is cheap (18 bucks on Amazon for quart bottles). I have since changed from Mobil 1 over to Castrol Edge. On to the GOALS tune only! I have a couple of goals I want to hit tune only. Tune only meaning stock intake and full stock exhaust, (K&N Drop In, Plugs, and AJPTurbo E30 tune) Goal #1: I want to break into the 12's full weight with a quarter tank of gas. I went 13.082 at 109.42. Sixty foot was a terrible 1.98. Temp was 92 degrees, and the DA was 4002.2 feet. My IAT's were in the 170's so it was hot. First time at the track, so trying to get her to launch in boost without pushing was a struggle for me. I will figure that it out, that was on me. Once the temp comes down, and we can getting the timing that is being pulled back, I realistically see a 12.7/12.8? What do you think? Goal: 12.7/12.8 @ 110 (tune only) Goal Update: She went 12.85 at 105.47 in 3700 feet D.A. in 96 degree heat. New hotter tune has gone in. Running 91 octane with Torco T85 mix for E30. I have a new number in my head. Sub 12.50 at 110. Goal Update: Track was trash, numerous oil downs. D.A. was 2900 feet and the temp was 78 degrees. Ending up running a 12.61 @109.23. Best MPH was 111.78 with a 12.66. Still warm with crap D.A. Still not leaving like I want it too. Once it gets "cold here" I will try again. Goal Update: Back to the track. Track was good, 58 degrees, 1200 D.A, Ended up running a 12.56 @108.98. With the new brakes, I was able to leave on 1 PSI of boost and she 60 footed 1.777! I did have an issue with a boost reference hose that was creating a boost leak. I will post all about it in here if you scroll down. Goal #2: I want to see if I can crack 400 awhp (tune only maybe if I have to use C20). I went to the dyno and in 105 degree heat with IAT's in the 170's again she cranked out 366 hp and 414 tq to the tires. Brad has even said, he has never see air temps that high in any other tune he was written. So in 60 degree air, timing that is being pulled, and maybe more boost (if Brad says its okay) do you think 400awhp is attainable? I WAS NOT ABLE TO OBTAIN THIS GOAL. First Dyno Session: 366 HP and 414 TQ 105 degree heat on pump E30 tune. Update: 391 HP and 470 TQ on 91 octane with Torco T85 E30 mix in 90 degree heat. Just came up short. I am extremely happy with the results. Once again when it gets cooler I will strap her to the dyno and crack that 4oo AHWP tune only mark. Since my SHO is starting down the road of bolt ons I want to adjust the goals. New Bolt On Goals Bolt On Track Goal #1: I want to run in the 11's at full weight with a quarter tank of fuel at all times. That means zero weight reduction! My car has already cut a 1.77 sixty foot tune only! That should get better with the H&R springs and bolt on's in the future. Update: Went back to the dyno. She cranked out 388 hp and 468 tq again. I am having boost issues. So I will delve into them over the next couple of weeks. Update: Seems the turbos are tired and the new IC has made it worse. Looking into replacing the stock turbos with new units or rebuild them with billet wheels. Bolt On Power Goal #2: I want to crack 440 awhp and 530 tq with my AJPTurbo E30 tune, GH Intercooler, new turbos, and PPE Catless DP's. Further down the road I will install the Upgraded HPFP. Just food for thought.