New rotors with new pads?

[kinder]

Hi all,

Recently when I quickly stop I have been hearing a rubbing sound coming from my brakes. Car has nearly 90,000kms so I figure I'm due.

Was looking at rotor options (limited it seems) which got me thinking...

"Do I really need to replace the rotors?"

Normally I would but I'm not the same "throw money at it" guy I use to be.

I don't track the car, some spirited driving but overall I'm just a daily driver at a high altitude.

Whats the consensus here?

PS I'm thinking Akebono ASP1611 pads.

 

[Lostneye]

If they aren't chewed up/significantly grooved and of proper thickness you should be fine. Although I daily drive and did replace them last time I needed brakes.

 

[4sfed]

With 90,000 miles it might not be worth it, but has anyone ever tried cryogenic frozen rotors? www.frozenrotors.com

 

[RonPorter]

With 90,000 miles it might not be worth it, but has anyone ever tried cryogenic frozen rotors? www.frozenrotors.com

No. Nor do many of us recommend them. Unless you really have the money burning a hole in your pocket to spend.

Really nothing to be gained for street vehicles.

 

[RonPorter]

Hi all,

Recently when I quickly stop I have been hearing a rubbing sound coming from my brakes. Car has nearly 90,000kms so I figure I'm due.

Was looking at rotor options (limited it seems) which got me thinking...

"Do I really need to replace the rotors?"

Normally I would but I'm not the same "throw money at it" guy I use to be.

I don't track the car, some spirited driving but overall I'm just a daily driver at a high altitude.

Whats the consensus here?

PS I'm thinking Akebono ASP1611 pads.

If you have 90k kilometers (~60k miles to me!), you aren't very ******* your brakes. If there are no grooves in the rotor, they could be cleaned up and reused. Issue is that there will tend to be more wear on the inside surface, which is hard to check until you remove them.

Akebono pads are fine for street pads. Just buy a new set of stock type solid rotors. You should be good for another 90k!

Oh, and whether you go it yourself or pay a shop, have all of the brake fluid flushed. Replacing it with a good synthetic DOT 4 like Valvoline will work just fine.

 

[shaker281]

I would replace the rotors. They may be close to minimum thickness. So, after another 20,000 km...
Do it right and be good for another 90,000 km (LOL, I just noticed RP said the exact same thing). As to the best rotors, I would stick with MC or get EBC premium rotors, which I think are a bit better. Both are great bang for the buck. I used MC SD pads on my recent brake job and very happy with their performance. The Akebonos are good too though. I would not consider doing a brake job thoroughly 'wasting money'.

As a side note, I tried to get the rear rotors on my GT500 turned at 39,000 miles and they were almost at minimum thickness. Food for thought.

 

[kinder]

But I hate bleeding brakes.

If you have 90k kilometers (~60k miles to me!), you aren't very ******* your brakes. If there are no grooves in the rotor, they could be cleaned up and reused. Issue is that there will tend to be more wear on the inside surface, which is hard to check until you remove them.

Akebono pads are fine for street pads. Just buy a new set of stock type solid rotors. You should be good for another 90k!

Oh, and whether you go it yourself or pay a shop, have all of the brake fluid flushed. Replacing it with a good synthetic DOT 4 like Valvoline will work just fine.

But I hate bleeding brakes.

 

[RonPorter]

But I hate bleeding brakes.


But I hate bleeding brakes.

If the fluid is more than a couple of years old, the system should be flushed not just bled! Since I only now do 2-3 track events a year, I just flush mine annually. And always whenever I change pads. I used to do it 2-3 times a year.

The best tool for the job is the Motive pressure tool. Truly a one man operation, and the setup takes longer than the 15-20 minutes to flush the system.

Besides insuring that you won't boil the fluid under hard usage, it also extends the life of the calipers.

 

[2011TAURUSSEL]

+2 on flushing brake system periodically. I found on line a hygroscopic tester. Basically insert in the fluid and it will tell you approximately how much water is in the system in percent. I believe up to 3-5% is not preferred but tolerable. Anything over 5% moisture and a flush is recommended. I definitely recommend 50K or four years whichever is first. Example I traded in my 2014 SHO last week and after 4.5 years it was 2% moisture. If I didn't trade I would probably flush even though well under 50K mileage.

 

[Sam66]

I was a product manager for a brake pad company in a former life.....

I would recommend replacing them or having them turned with an oncar brake lathe. You want to marry the rotor and pads together. A fresh clean surface will do the trick....
At the very least, you will need to address the rotors. Ford uses a metallic brake pad, hence the black dust. If you switch to an akebono pad, that is a ceramic application. Metal on metal will magnetize the rotor, if you don’t clean the surface off with a healthy amount of SOAP and water, not brake clean, you will still have metal flakes on the rotors. These flakes will then imbed into a pad that is not meant to have metal in it and you’ll get a noise.
My suggestion is to even clean new rotors with soap and water. Remove the impurities and make for a proper mate.
Just my thoughts.... good luck with whatever you try to do sir!

 

[RonPorter]

+2 on flushing brake system periodically. I found on line a hygroscopic tester. Basically insert in the fluid and it will tell you approximately how much water is in the system in percent. I believe up to 3-5% is not preferred but tolerable. Anything over 5% moisture and a flush is recommended. I definitely recommend 50K or four years whichever is first. Example I traded in my 2014 SHO last week and after 4.5 years it was 2% moisture. If I didn't trade I would probably flush even though well under 50K mileage.

That's a decent test, but can be misleading. Yes, brake fluid is hydroscopic, but water is also heavier than brake fluid and, via gravity, will migrate down to the calipers. The water concentration can be very high at the calipers.

Proved this point with a buddy of mine. In 2012 he bought an 04 Mach 1 with about 9k miles. Talked him into running a track day at Gingerman. Talked him into flushing the fluid, so he agreed to humor me, since I was doing it.

I drain at the caliper with clear hose, doing a pressure flush with the Motive. He became a believer when he saw all of the crud that came out first at each caliper!

 

[shaker281]

Totally agree on brake flushing/bleeding.

I use this. A real cheap way to do it with one person:

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-0...=B000MXW2EM&psc=1&refRID=ZTRF7SKMKPMSS5M378HK

 

[geophb]

Ima go against the grain here. Just throw new pads on and run it. Swap rotors side to side to change rotation direction. Probly wont do anything but it sounds cool

 

[SHOdded]

Going against the groove in this case, lol. At least clean up the rotors really well with cfcfree brake cleaner to get old pad material off. Then measure rotor runout etc. THEN if all looks good, change just the pads. But dont expect the longevity.

 

[RonPorter]

If there's no grooves on the rotors, take them to a brake shop, and for $5-$10 apiece, they will do a cleanup pass. Much better surface to bed the new pads.

But, with 90k km/56k miles, just go pads/rotors/fresh fluid, and be good to go for another 90k.

 

[RonPorter]

I'll bring it up again! This is one of the best tools I've ever bought, and well worth every penny. Just get the Round Universal Bleeder for $65, then also order the Ford (or whatever vehicle) specific m/c adaptor. Although the Universal adaptor with the kit works with about anything, space permitting.

https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/domestic-bleeder-kits

 

[6500rpm]

I was trained to resurface as long as thickness is within spec and no hot spots. Reasoning behind this is that the original rotors have already thermo cycled/stress relieved and are less prone to warping. On car turning is preferred as it compensates for run out. I don't know if they're still in use today, but an alternate was either indexing or using a shim plate installed between the hub and rotor to bring run out back into spec (both with a dial indicator). Sometimes there are tolerance stacking run out issues between hub run out and rotor.
I haven't been completely clued in and I don't think it effects Ford, but at least one of the Mfg's are getting ready to do some type of DOT 3 related recall any day now.

 

[kinder]

Thanks guys.

I'll be dropping in new rotors and flushing the lines () when I do the job.

I'll be going with Akebono's ASP1611A offering as they should be a step up from the OEM version.

I'll prob do it in the next few weeks and will update the thread with results.

Thanks again.

 

[SaveMelMac]

Thanks guys.

I'll be dropping in new rotors and flushing the lines () when I do the job.

I'll be going with Akebono's ASP1611A offering as they should be a step up from the OEM version.

I'll prob do it in the next few weeks and will update the thread with results.

Thanks again.

Just did my front brakes with akebono pads and centric premium rotors. Could not be happier.