Changing Transmission & Clutch

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SHOtime-95

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So my differential pin ejected through the case leaving a couple small holes in it. I posted another thread about it when it happened, and now I'm all ready to get her back on the road. I Finally got another transmission, and ordered a new clutch, since the old one was slipping. I've also order the axle seals on the transmission, a new main seal since its leaking some oil, and a couple other things while I'm at it.

So as of right now, I've got the old transmission out, and I've washed the new (used but not broken) transmission and subframe, and cleaned up all the nuts and bolts. So when my new clutch arrives, she can go right back together. I'm actually quite suprized how smoothly and easy it has been to do this so far. I know a major part of it is the ramp system I built that you see in the pics, but nothing has been unnecessarily hard to remove or unbolt. I guess its because my car it pretty well kept and rust free.

BUT anyway, I have some questions, and would like some advice along the way. My plan is to split the case on my busted transmission, and remove the differential. Then weld around the diff pins that are still in, so that they cannot ever come out, the put it all back together. And if that all goes well, then I will do the same on my new transmission, so that I don't have to worry about this sh** happening again.
Also, since I plan to take the diff out, has anyone heard about these??
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Taurus-...lip-Differential-Conversion-Kit-/262274423223
I can't seem to find any info on here about them. I would LOVE to have an LSD in my car. Seems like a cheaper rout than going for a quaife. Would love to know how good they are.
Anyways, here are some pics of the project so far.
I really wish I moved that leaf in the first pic. It's really bothering me.
 
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OG-SHOguy

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I have seen some crazy engineering before but I think that "pit" classifies and crazy genius! Well done sir, well done! :thumb:

I would modify it for future use to include welding stands for car support like the ones that jack up and down by turning the adjustment nut....then you dont even need the tire under it to hold it up...it would be removable jack stands right where you need them.
 

SHOtime-95

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Interesting setup! Permanent or dismantle after every use?
As of right now, it's all welded together. But I do plan to do more to it, like make the width adjustable, ad a better jacking set up, so foot plates, and paint it black or something. I just wanted to get the car done asap so it's not completely done.
 

SHOtime-95

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I have seen some crazy engineering before but I think that "pit" classifies and crazy genius! Well done sir, well done! :thumb:

I would modify it for future use to include welding stands for car support like the ones that jack up and down by turning the adjustment nut....then you dont even need the tire under it to hold it up...it would be removable jack stands right where you need them.
It will definitely have some refinements when my car is done. The car is actually sitting on those kind of Jacks that you just mentioned. There on the wood, at the jacking points on the car. The tire is just there for some extra safety. But I do want the make the jacking setup alot better like you mentioned
 

SHOtime-95

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pjtoledo

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So my differential pin ejected through the case leaving a couple small holes in it. I posted another thread about it when it happened, and now I'm all ready to get her back on the road. I Finally got another transmission, and ordered a new clutch, since the old one was slipping. I've also order the axle seals on the transmission, a new main seal since its leaking some oil, and a couple other things while I'm at it.

So as of right now, I've got the old transmission out, and I've washed the new (used but not broken) transmission and subframe, and cleaned up all the nuts and bolts. So when my new clutch arrives, she can go right back together. I'm actually quite suprized how smoothly and easy it has been to do this so far. I know a major part of it is the ramp system I built that you see in the pics, but nothing has been unnecessarily hard to remove or unbolt. I guess its because my car it pretty well kept and rust free.

BUT anyway, I have some questions, and would like some advice along the way. My plan is to split the case on my busted transmission, and remove the differential. Then weld around the diff pins that are still in, so that they cannot ever come out, the put it all back together. And if that all goes well, then I will do the same on my new transmission, so that I don't have to worry about this sh** happening again.
Also, since I plan to take the diff out, has anyone heard about these??
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Taurus-...lip-Differential-Conversion-Kit-/262274423223
I can't seem to find any info on here about them. I would LOVE to have an LSD in my car. Seems like a cheaper rout than going for a quaife. Would love to know how good they are.
Anyways, here are some pics of the project so far.
I really wish I moved that leaf in the first pic. It's really bothering me.


what caused the failure is lack of lubrication of the diff pins.
there is a small channel in the outer casing that guides fluid up to a small opening on the side of the diff housing. in the opinions of many not enough fluid gets into the diff. eventually, (or if doing burnouts, immediately) the spider gears start wearing the pins. the friction from that wear causes the pins to rotate with the gears. normally the roll pins that secure the diff pins keep them from rotating. the torque from the worn diff pins easily tears the roll pin out of the aluminum housing, the diff pin starts working its way out, catches on the main case, and Ka Boom.

the long diff pin has spider gears on each end spinning in opposite directions, it doesn't fail as often. the 2 short pins have only 1 spider gear so the twisting force is free to wreak havoc on the roll pin.

by the way, syncro rings have been out of production for many years. if yours are still good hang on to 'em.


annnnd,, while the sub-frame is out,,,,weld the inner cups where the tension rod goes thru the front of the subframe. the cups frequently break loose and you'll get a lot of clunking noise.
 

AREA 91

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I HIGHLY recommend you reinforce the differential in the replacement transmission!

I would hate to see you in the same position again.
 

SHOtime-95

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Thank you guys, just got over being sick, so haven't been able to do much. But I will be back with responses and updates tomorrow, thanks!
 

SHOtime-95

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Ok, so I've got my old transmission taken apart, and I haven't started to take my new one apart. Honestly, I'm afraid of not being able to get it put back together properly. I tried to take the old one apart carfuly, without moving anything out of place, but a few thing's were moved, and I had to pull most of the gears to get the diff out. So I'm a little afraid to pull the new one apart. I still haven't put the old one back together to see if I can do it, but hopefully my service manual will have the instructions
 

OG-SHOguy

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Honestly, I'm afraid of not being able to get it put back together properly.
I just recently acquired the Ford Service manual for the 89-95 SHO...let me look through that tonight and see if there is a MTX-IV transmission schematic in there and if there is, I will post it and you are covered!
 
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