In need of a new motor

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Tuxedo10-SHO

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I'm getting ready to pull the trigger and drop a "new" motor into my SHO, but curious if any of you have had to do the same, if so, was it a "new" motor from Ford direct ?
I've done some research and found that a "used" motor is about $5k to install, verses $ 7k for one new from the factory with a 3 year, unlimited mileage warranty, so kindof a no brainer for me to go new.
I just question with the new motor what accessories are part of the new motor...possibly turbos ??

Thanks all.
 

Majestic

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Man, I'd just get a new car. Seems like every time I read about someone getting a new engine it never works out well.
 

Bronco2fan

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Well, when my wife blew the motor in her Mitsubishi Montero, I got one from the salvage yard and it came with all accessories. It was all plug and play too. Almost impossible to not hook them up right. With new, rebuilt motor, it's basically about how you buy it. Long block is Heads, intake, valve covers etc, no accessories. Short block is a lot less items included. None of them come with accessories to my knowledge. So no water pump, turbos, alternator. They'll just take your stuff and swap over what they can. So the money you think you're spending will be more. Nobody wants to put a used water pump on a new motor etc. Once again, not that I'm saying you should, but salvage low miles motor saves you bucks. Totally up to you, but I'd do some real research and see what you have to replace and weigh the options. Hope I didn't confuse you.
 

Tuxedo10-SHO

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The car is in mint condition with 75k miles on the clock, paid off and many upgrades, so dumping it for another car payment just doesn't sound like a good option to me. Plus we have two cars, and between the two of them, put about 6K miles total on them both last year....$ 7k is a bite out of my wallet, but a much better option than another car payment on a car that I never drive.
Just my opinion of course...........
 

Bronco2fan

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The car is in mint condition with 75k miles on the clock, paid off and many upgrades, so dumping it for another car payment just doesn't sound like a good option to me. Plus we have two cars, and between the two of them, put about 6K miles total on them both last year....$ 7k is a bite out of my wallet, but a much better option than another car payment on a car that I never drive.
Just my opinion of course...........
Does it need a motor or you just wanting one? You never said. Most times if you're replacing it, you need to. 75 k on it isn't bad at all. If it's shot have you checked into someone rebuilding it?

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk
 

Tuxedo10-SHO

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Does it need a motor or you just wanting one? You never said. Most times if you're replacing it, you need to. 75 k on it isn't bad at all. If it's shot have you checked into someone rebuilding it?

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I fried a piston awhile ago......collapsed piston ring land to be specific. For some reason they don't rebuild these motors, typically just drop a new/used one in ?
I had another post here awhile back when I was trying to diagnose my "Misfire" issue, which I finally did and found it to be the bad piston.
Even if I did make the attempt to rebuild it, my guess is the piston wall is probably scored way past a re-bore, so I'm just going to suck it up and go with a new motor....I love the car and everything it has to offer, so not ready to dump it.
 

Bronco2fan

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I fried a piston awhile ago......collapsed piston ring land to be specific. For some reason they don't rebuild these motors, typically just drop a new/used one in ?
I had another post here awhile back when I was trying to diagnose my "Misfire" issue, which I finally did and found it to be the bad piston.
Even if I did make the attempt to rebuild it, my guess is the piston wall is probably scored way past a re-bore, so I'm just going to suck it up and go with a new motor....I love the car and everything it has to offer, so not ready to dump it.
Well it sounds like you just need to decide what route you want to take. Salvage yard or new. I personally would check salvage yard first. Just because it'll come with everything. New is gonna cost all the accessories you can't swap over. Do the research, crunch the numbers and see what's best for you. .

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sperold

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I would pull the existing motor and have a look at the piston.
It has to come out anyways, so now is a good time.

You have to be prepared to do the work yourself, otherwise it is too expensive.

Take the head off and look at the wall, there is no guarantee the wall is scored. And if it is, it can be sleeved at a decent shop, but again, you would have to do the teardown to make it cost effective.

With 75 K, it is doubtful that any of the other cylinders or anything else would need attention, maybe clean the back of the intake valves.

Since the water pump is run off the cam chain, it would be a good idea to install a new one, as it is expensive to replace when in the car.

You are not going to get any extra parts like turbos or anything for that matter from the yard or from Ford. That is unless you buy a whole other car.

And maybe look at that back turbo and have it gone over, because again, it is expensive to do it in the car.
 

tery

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hey--just lurking on your conversation and can't figure why an engine with 75k fries a piston??
I don't pay a lot of attention to what's going on in the new SHO world since it's out of my financial and driving skills league, but I dream of having one of course..
So do many of them blow their rings by that time or can they go 200k like my gen 2s?? just curious when you have a second to answer..
thx
 

StealBlueSho

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hey--just lurking on your conversation and can't figure why an engine with 75k fries a piston??
I don't pay a lot of attention to what's going on in the new SHO world since it's out of my financial and driving skills league, but I dream of having one of course..
So do many of them blow their rings by that time or can they go 200k like my gen 2s?? just curious when you have a second to answer..
thx

There have been a few...


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SHOdded

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Tery, these engines really hate detonation, being turbocharged. Plus there is likely some issue with sticky rings that turn into broken rings. Lost compression is usually what happens, but cracked blocks, blown pistons, and windowed blocks have also happened.
 

tery

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Hey, I've always thought that putting a turbo on an engine designed for "regular"..I would think the design for turbocharged motors would begin with non standard issue metals, But I suspect that the pistons and such in those engines are the same ones in all the engines made for the public consumption...right?
 

SHOdded

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Yup, nothing special about the materials really, it's all in the design. With the 3.5L (at least the first iteration), it is an open deck design (cuts costs), carried over from the Duratec on which it is based. The piston has a crescent type dome. The exhaust manifold has 2 layers. Again, more design than materials. The F150 version gets a somewhat stronger bottom end (forged vs powdered metal, for example), but same basic pitfalls as the SHO/Flex/XSport/MKS version. Ford has really accomplished a lot with the Ecoboost, but GTDI is very much an emergent field re controls. Intake valve coking, fuel injector deposits, and ring deposits being foremost.

And, I feel, it does much better as a long distance runner than as a daily stopngo or mixed situations driver. Part of that may be the quality of maintenance materials/schedules involved, but I don't have a feel for that aspect yet. They definitely do not like being driven gently all the time, they need some high revving action periodically.
 

Tuxedo10-SHO

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Keep in mind I was running the LMS 91+4 tune with 3bar, so that obviously added some additional load to the piston and rings.
I always ran premium gas, but there's always that chance of a tank of bad gas causing some detonation which could have caused the damage I experienced, also there is a chance of a faulty piston.....all speculation, but it is what it is at this point.
End result is I love the car, so I plan to keep it alive and on the streets for as long as possible.
 

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