I am thinking about getting a SHO

[Ciano Mont]

I currently drive a 2006 Chevy Impala SS. I really like it, but it's getting old and less reliable. I am already fixing some little thing every other month on it, just waiting for the transmission to break for the second time.

Anyway, I want another huge American sedan with some respectable power. The SRT Dodges are too bad on gas and the only fitting sedan from Chevy is the SS, which I can't afford. Under $18K is my price point.

So it looks like a 2010-2011 SHO fits the bill pretty well! I've found them in my price range with under 90k miles for 2010 and 2011 only. I am here mainly to see what you guys can tell me about it. Specifically, what to look out for when going to test drive the cars. I would also like to know if they have any obvious issues that will need to be addressed at some point, like the glass transmissions in the last SS Impalas.

I hope to one day be a part of this community!

 

[2012korn]

The only issue is the ptu. But regular fluid changes takes care of that problem. Otherwise normal maintenance and it's quite a reliable car.

 

[2016-SHO]

Nice, you'll love it!! Great power!!

 

[bpd1151]

Look over all the necessary TSB's for those model years & ensure they were performed prior to purchase.

Of particular note, the gaskets on the turbo oil supply AND return lines. Both were known for leaking, and went through like 4 revisions before FMC finally nailed it down.

Some experienced premature shock/strut failure(s) in the form of leaks. Primarily affected the rears.

Brakes. Ha! Well just expect lack luster performance from the factory set ups. More so on the non-pp versions. Of most note, warped rotors, and/or the rubber gaskets on the pistons failing/wearing prematurely.

Umm..... what else......

Definitely make sure fluids have been changed. Particularly the PTU. Ford claims in those model year's, the fluids were/are "lifetime". What a f@ck'n joke.

Plenty of threads on ***** like, complete failures of the PTU fluids. Do your research respectively.

Otherwise not a bad car at all. Certainly an upgrade over what you cite you are upgrading from.

Oh yea, one last thing, be sure the SYNC software, mapping, and other systems were/are updated respectively.

Another forum member going by the user name SHOdded is pretty thorough when it comes to info on these platforms. So if he doesn't happen to chime in with additional info (& links most importantly) beyond what I've mentioned above, then be sure to shoot him a PM.

Best of luck in whatever you end up deciding upon.

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[SHOdded]

Most common issues I know of with 2010-12 SHOs:

1. PTU failure (as mentioned by bpd above): Expect to perform fluid exchanges on PTU and RDU immediately upon acquisition of the vehicle. A plus if the seller can provide records of a recent (within 5K miles) of such servicing. But at that mileage, I would also send a sample out for Blackstone Labs analysis to verify PTU is not breaking down. Listen for any whine/grinding when you test drive. That would NOT bode well for the PTU.
   
2. RDU: very rarely gives way. If there is a vibration from the rear end of the car, that may be the issue.
3. Driveshaft: rare, but does happen. If there is a vibration through the floorboards, that may be the center support bearings failing.
   
4. Brakes 1: if all-OEM, performance is at best mediocre in moderate to high stress situations. At the very least, get highcarbon rotors (such as Autozone's Duralast Gold) and pair up with proven brake pads like Hawk HP/HPS, EBC YellowStuff, Carbotech Bobcats, etc. Bigggg difference.
5. Brakes 2: Sometimes (not frequent at all) the booster will let go, and it will turn out that the MC has leaked into the booster. So if you run into this, replace both at the same time.
6. Engine: A 1-2 second rattle at startup is pretty common, usually nearly eliminated by running the Motorcraft FL-500S filter (aftermarket filters not so good). Longer duration rattles could be timing system related.
7. Engine 2: Do not skimp on oil changes, and do not use the cheapest oil you can find. This is a forced induction engine, it runs hot (and lean by design under normal conditions), and it likes being cooled properly. Oil is a big part of that (and of variable timing function).
8. Engine 3: These engines do like to eat spark plugs, especially when tuned. Install fresh plugs ASAP, Motorcraft SP534's work well. They generally do not need to be regapped if installing on a stock tune engine. Usually the gap is found to be 0.030-0.035 in practice. Not worth damaging the center electrode to adjust in that case.
9. Engine 4: Run top quality fuel, whether 87 or 93. Cheaper fuels will cause the fuel injectors and fuel system to gum up faster. Most fuel in the US is now E10, so if the SHO has been sitting around for any length of time, it has already been at work ...
   
10. Transmission: Generally stout, but again, this is a pre-owned vehicle. Change out the fluid immediately. A 3x drain and fill (or a professional fluid exchange) is recommended (not a flush) as that allows you to know the condition of the trans before forcing accumulated sludge into parts that will be irreversibly damaged. Mercon LV is good enough if changed frequently enough. Watch for RPM flutter, bumps, clunks, and hard shifting under low to moderate throttle conditions. Could be signs of internal damage.
11. Suspension: A few have had the rear shocks leak and fail, especially when using aftermarket springs. So if installing springs, intall new shocks & struts all around. Tie rod ends can fail sometimes. Wheel hubs/bearings DO fail, more prominently on the 2013+ though.
    
12. Turbos 1: Check intake piping for pooling oil. That could be trouble from PCV blowby, also noticeable in the intercooler. Sometimes the intake piping will split right near the clamps (and usually on the underside of the piping), causing boost issues.
13. Turbos 2: Take the intake piping off at the turbo. Pooling oil there could be a sign of leaky seals in the turbo, which could point to trouble down the road. Watch for blue smoke out the exhaust, particularly in non-WOT situations.
14. Tires: See if the tires on the SHO match your expected driving conditions. Build a replacement budget for that if not. Maybe you want 2 sets of wheels/tires for summer/winter ...
15. Wheels: have the wheels checked for trueness by a tire/wheel shop you trust. Bent wheels are not uncommon with alloy-type wheels. That will cause annoying vibration down the road, and wear out tires quicker.
    
16. Water intrusion into the cabin: happens sometimes to sunroof/moonroof equipped SHOs. The usual solution is to blow out the clogged drains in that area.
17. Rear sunshade motor: this can be a real annoyance as a gear will break off in the motor leaving you unable to control the shade. So check that out.
18. Peeling "chrome" from taillights: a pretty common issue with the 2010s, maybe 2011-12 also. A good solution is to find replacement Taurus SEL taillight assemblies (no chrome), or possibly sand down yours and paint them, or plastidip.
19. Backup camera/APIM/HVAC module: good idea to have warranty coverage for these items Ford has extended warranty on the APIM, I believe, for now.

There are more one-off type situations, but you can search the forums to see if there is a match.
You can look over the TSBs/recalls for the SHO (i.e., taurus, look for GTDI in title) here:
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Tsb/

There are compiled lists of TSBs/recalls here also:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,496.0.html
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3836.0.html

Currently available HOW-TOs:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/board,107.0.html

If you can, get Ford ESP warranty right away. If you can get a CPO vehicle, even better. Online ESP vendors like Lombard Ford, Flood Ford, Zeigler Ford, etc. can get you good pricing. An inspection is required if the SHO is not being sold with factory warranty. I recommend PremiumCare because it covers a LOT. More importantly, find a dealer you can trust.

 

[Ciano Mont]

Wow. That is a LOT of info! I am going to check the car out some time next week. I will be reading over this thread at least once per day so until then.

Thanks a ton!

 

[2016-SHO]

That is a crazy amount of info!! So much so, it would prompt me to look for a low mileage 2013 SHO!!

 

[moonie]

I have a 2011 SHO for sale currently. Just purchased a new 2016 SHO

 

[Ciano Mont]

I have a 2011 SHO for sale currently. Just purchased a new 2016 SHO

Well I would offer to buy it, but I will need to finance and NC is a bit far from Texas lol.

That is a crazy amount of info!! So much so, it would prompt me to look for a low mileage 2013 SHO!!

I would love a newer one, but I can't afford them. They are over $20k

 

[SHOdded]

2013+ have their own issues. I created that list above not to scare anyone, but rather to inform. That's what these forums are about, getting you prepped for what might happen. Always hope that nothing happens, but always be prepared.

 

[bpd1151]

Excellent job there Manu (a.k.a. SHOdded)..... lol.....

I must say, even as a current 2010 owner, I was left a little scared after reading your novel you posted.

But as quickly as those fears came, off they went when I realized I've modded nearly every part of my SHO, the only exception being the trans & related drivetrain components.

Whew! I feel better now. Lol.

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[glockcoma]

Great job explaining things guys, is there anyway to "sticky" this thread for future use.

 

[SilverSH0]

The two things I would really watch are oil leaking from the turbo(s) and oil leaking from the PTU vent. Get the car in the air and check around under it to see what you can find.

 

[SHOdded]

I must say, even as a current 2010 owner, I was left a little scared after reading your novel you posted.

Yeah, I guess I should have stopped & read what I wrote, LOL!

But seriously, since I don't even have/ever had a Gen 4 SHO, this is all collated from the large amount of information that actual owners have shared in the forums over the years. I certainly enjoy reading each and every post, and this is in some small part a repayment to the community.

 

[bpd1151]

Yeah, I guess I should have stopped & read what I wrote, LOL!

But seriously, since I don't even have/ever had a Gen 4 SHO, this is all collated from the large amount of information that actual owners have shared in the forums over the years. I certainly enjoy reading each and every post, and this is in some small part a repayment to the community.

Manu, you have served the community tremendously and thus why I HIGHLY RECOMMENDED you to be part of the moderation staff (albeit at EBPF, but certainly you would serve well here on SHOforum as well if it were to be considered).

I am sure I am not the only one who has recognized your consistent, accurate, contributions respectively.

I applaud your dedication, and perseverance day in, day out.

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[SHOdded]

 

[Sunday DICKSON]

Most common issues I know of with 2010-12 SHOs:

1. PTU failure (as mentioned by bpd above): Expect to perform fluid exchanges on PTU and RDU immediately upon acquisition of the vehicle. A plus if the seller can provide records of a recent (within 5K miles) of such servicing. But at that mileage, I would also send a sample out for Blackstone Labs analysis to verify PTU is not breaking down. Listen for any whine/grinding when you test drive. That would NOT bode well for the PTU.
   
2. RDU: very rarely gives way. If there is a vibration from the rear end of the car, that may be the issue.
3. Driveshaft: rare, but does happen. If there is a vibration through the floorboards, that may be the center support bearings failing.
   
4. Brakes 1: if all-OEM, performance is at best mediocre in moderate to high stress situations. At the very least, get highcarbon rotors (such as Autozone's Duralast Gold) and pair up with proven brake pads like Hawk HP/HPS, EBC YellowStuff, Carbotech Bobcats, etc. Bigggg difference.
5. Brakes 2: Sometimes (not frequent at all) the booster will let go, and it will turn out that the MC has leaked into the booster. So if you run into this, replace both at the same time.
6. Engine: A 1-2 second rattle at startup is pretty common, usually nearly eliminated by running the Motorcraft FL-500S filter (aftermarket filters not so good). Longer duration rattles could be timing system related.
7. Engine 2: Do not skimp on oil changes, and do not use the cheapest oil you can find. This is a forced induction engine, it runs hot (and lean by design under normal conditions), and it likes being cooled properly. Oil is a big part of that (and of variable timing function).
8. Engine 3: These engines do like to eat spark plugs, especially when tuned. Install fresh plugs ASAP, Motorcraft SP534's work well. They generally do not need to be regapped if installing on a stock tune engine. Usually the gap is found to be 0.030-0.035 in practice. Not worth damaging the center electrode to adjust in that case.
9. Engine 4: Run top quality fuel, whether 87 or 93. Cheaper fuels will cause the fuel injectors and fuel system to gum up faster. Most fuel in the US is now E10, so if the SHO has been sitting around for any length of time, it has already been at work ...
   
10. Transmission: Generally stout, but again, this is a pre-owned vehicle. Change out the fluid immediately. A 3x drain and fill (or a professional fluid exchange) is recommended (not a flush) as that allows you to know the condition of the trans before forcing accumulated sludge into parts that will be irreversibly damaged. Mercon LV is good enough if changed frequently enough. Watch for RPM flutter, bumps, clunks, and hard shifting under low to moderate throttle conditions. Could be signs of internal damage.
11. Suspension: A few have had the rear shocks leak and fail, especially when using aftermarket springs. So if installing springs, intall new shocks & struts all around. Tie rod ends can fail sometimes. Wheel hubs/bearings DO fail, more prominently on the 2013+ though.
    
12. Turbos 1: Check intake piping for pooling oil. That could be trouble from PCV blowby, also noticeable in the intercooler. Sometimes the intake piping will split right near the clamps (and usually on the underside of the piping), causing boost issues.
13. Turbos 2: Take the intake piping off at the turbo. Pooling oil there could be a sign of leaky seals in the turbo, which could point to trouble down the road. Watch for blue smoke out the exhaust, particularly in non-WOT situations.
14. Tires: See if the tires on the SHO match your expected driving conditions. Build a replacement budget for that if not. Maybe you want 2 sets of wheels/tires for summer/winter ...
15. Wheels: have the wheels checked for trueness by a tire/wheel shop you trust. Bent wheels are not uncommon with alloy-type wheels. That will cause annoying vibration down the road, and wear out tires quicker.
    
16. Water intrusion into the cabin: happens sometimes to sunroof/moonroof equipped SHOs. The usual solution is to blow out the clogged drains in that area.
17. Rear sunshade motor: this can be a real annoyance as a gear will break off in the motor leaving you unable to control the shade. So check that out.
18. Peeling "chrome" from taillights: a pretty common issue with the 2010s, maybe 2011-12 also. A good solution is to find replacement Taurus SEL taillight assemblies (no chrome), or possibly sand down yours and paint them, or plastidip.
19. Backup camera/APIM/HVAC module: good idea to have warranty coverage for these items Ford has extended warranty on the APIM, I believe, for now.

There are more one-off type situations, but you can search the forums to see if there is a match.
You can look over the TSBs/recalls for the SHO (i.e., taurus, look for GTDI in title) here:
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Tsb/

There are compiled lists of TSBs/recalls here also:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,496.0.html
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3836.0.html

Currently available HOW-TOs:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/board,107.0.html

If you can, get Ford ESP warranty right away. If you can get a CPO vehicle, even better. Online ESP vendors like Lombard Ford, Flood Ford, Zeigler Ford, etc. can get you good pricing. An inspection is required if the SHO is not being sold with factory warranty. I recommend PremiumCare because it covers a LOT. More importantly, find a dealer you can trust.

SHOdded, please can you confirm that the SEL rearlight assembly will fit the SHO for the same year please, thanks.

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[bpd1151]

They will.

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