95 SHO Seems underpowered

[SHOtime-95]

I think DRLs are required in Canada?

K&N filter or something else? Can you post a pic of your engine bay please, in hirez? You are probably familiar with the ongoing debate about whether or not overoiling hurts the MAF, hence the curiosity.

Should check TPS voltage next, I'd think. I have had that make a significant difference on other non-SHO vehicles. Also, if you are running the AC at all, that can be a power hog. Check the belts.

Here are the best pictures I can get of the engine bay as of right now. Unfortunately there not the best quality but hopefully they'll do!

 

[SHOtime-95]

2

 

[SHOtime-95]

 

[SHOdded]

It does look like it's received some TLC! Stock, non-EGR. No visible leaks up top. How old is the battery?

You said you replaced the plugs, right, Motorcraft Iridium? I didn't know they had Iridium plugs for this vintage SHO (they do for the Gen 4s)? I believe this is the current replacement for the original plugs -
MOTORCRAFT SP432 {#AGSF32FM, AWSF32F, AWSF32PP} Finewire Platinum Gap: .044"
Did you check/set the gap (0.044 is listed standard, but may vary on the actual plugs)? The SHO is very picky about plug specs. An alternative plug is the Autolite XP3924 Iridium (rebate on it right now makes it cheap), or the Autolite APP3924 Double Platinum. Supposedly even better than the Motorcraft part in performance/longevity.

Did you notice any oil in any of the plug wells?

Can't really see the condition of the DIS and the ground wire that leads from the passenger rear of the intake to the firewall. Can't see the camshaft seal area (oil leak), you will need to put some light on it for pics. Can you get closeups please? The DIS appears to be fine, just dblchecking.

Hopefully the air filter cleaning/MAF cleaning will work wonders. In any case, would be worth it to pick a standard paper filter (Motorcraft if at all possible, but def a good brand), clean the MAF sensor, go from there, just to have a basis for comparison. Then check the TPS voltage.

 

[shoray]

I'm jealous of the condition of that 235k mile stock motor. Good luck man I hope you find it.

 

[SHOtime-95]

It does look like it's received some TLC! Stock, non-EGR. No visible leaks up top. How old is the battery?

You said you replaced the plugs, right, Motorcraft Iridium? I didn't know they had Iridium plugs for this vintage SHO (they do for the Gen 4s)? I believe this is the current replacement for the original plugs -
MOTORCRAFT SP432 {#AGSF32FM, AWSF32F, AWSF32PP} Finewire Platinum Gap: .044"
Did you check/set the gap (0.044 is listed standard, but may vary on the actual plugs)? The SHO is very picky about plug specs. An alternative plug is the Autolite XP3924 Iridium (rebate on it right now makes it cheap), or the Autolite APP3924 Double Platinum. Supposedly even better than the Motorcraft part in performance/longevity.

Did you notice any oil in any of the plug wells?

Can't really see the condition of the DIS and the ground wire that leads from the passenger rear of the intake to the firewall. Can't see the camshaft seal area (oil leak), you will need to put some light on it for pics. Can you get closeups please? The DIS appears to be fine, just dblchecking.

Hopefully the air filter cleaning/MAF cleaning will work wonders. In any case, would be worth it to pick a standard paper filter (Motorcraft if at all possible, but def a good brand), clean the MAF sensor, go from there, just to have a basis for comparison. Then check the TPS voltage.

Yeah the engine bay looks almost as if the car just rolled off the assembly line. And NO stupid California EGR crap to dirty up my manifold! After a while I have to wipe off a little bit of oily grime off the top of the valve cover around the chrome Allen bolts. I don't know how old the battery is, but it's an 850 CCA battery and works amazing. Never died on me, and still starts up like nothing after leaving interior lights on all night once.

Motorcraft Iridium are the plugs I installed. I don't have the part # since I'm still not in town for school. I'm a little limited on info and tools right now until tomorrow. I can't even get my my MAF sensor off too because I don't have the torx bit with the stupid hole in the middle! Lol. Anyways, I know I gapped the plugs to spec before installing them. I'm sure it was .044. There was no oil in the plug wells when I removed them, although I did vacuum them out before removing the plugs. The plugs were dry on top though.

I did remove the DIS once just to take a look. Everything looked perfect. No corrosion or anything. There was also a clear anti corrosive grease between the DIS and the manifold.

I will get more pictures and post as you requested. I'll also see if I can get a torx bit with a hole in the middle to remove the MAF sensor. If I can get it off, I think I'll drive the car around the block without the filter and see how it runs.

 

[SHOtime-95]

I'm jealous of the condition of that 235k mile stock motor. Good luck man I hope you find it.

Thanks! The whole car is beautiful like the engine bay

 

[SHOdded]

Look for the security/tamperproof Torx bits at the store, if you don't have them on hand. A cheap set should work fine.
http://www.harborfreight.com/33-pc-security-bit-set-68459.html

 

[rubydist]

I don't recall - is the fuel pump newer or pretty old? because a weak fuel pump will cause lean condition at high loads and a big power loss.

 

[SHOtime-95]

I don't recall - is the fuel pump newer or pretty old? because a weak fuel pump will cause lean condition at high loads and a big power loss.

I actually have no idea how old it is. Should I upgrade to 255 lph pump & regulator if I replace it?

 

[SHOdded]

Way overkill unless you are building a "monster" SHO. Even a 190 lph pump is probably unnecessary, the 155 should be enough, up to you. Some info here:
http://www.shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=61_43_52&products_id=41

 

[zoomlater]

If you can get a fuel pressure gage and measure the pressure at the Schrader valve, that will give you an idea if your fuel pump is good or not

 

[SHOtime-95]

Way overkill unless you are building a "monster" SHO. Even a 190 lph pump is probably unnecessary, the 155 should be enough, up to you. Some info here:
http://www.shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=61_43_52&products_id=41

Ok, just wondering since I am thinking about turbocharging the SHO at the end of this year. Need to get all problems straightened out and supporting upgrades done before hand.

So I "professionally" drilled a hole in my torx bit and removed the MAF sensor, cleaned it, took some pictures, and test drove the car without air filter. Car is still running like crap without the air filter, and running at like 600 rpm, and almost dying. When I drive the car, it seems like it's not getting enough fuel. When I accelerate, I feel the car pulling, then stop pulling then pulling, then stop, all throughout the rpm range. I did notice the car pulling significantly better without the air filter, but still not running good. Felt like it had more bottom end. And with it back on, noticeably not pulling as well.

I pulled the codes again and still MAF sensor low voltage, 157. I think my cheap MAF sensor is failing. I still have my old one at home that I will put back on tomorrow and see if that makes a difference. I'll also check fuel pressure.

For some reason the car idles at like 600 rpm or even dies when the engine is cold. It's smooths out after running the engine for a little bit

 

[SHOtime-95]

Now as far as oil leaks, I am quite positive that my front main seal is leaking, and my power steering pump. Also, I'm not sure what it is, but what looks like some type of solenoid located on the passenger side, upper rear of the engine, is covered with an oily grime. It has a plug going to it.

 

[SHOtime-95]

 

[SHOtime-95]

Picture one is the oil leaking under my crank pulley. Everything above the pulley seems dry, so I believe it's coming from the main seal.
Picture two Is some bracket next to my Power steering pump that is covered in oil (light shining on it) that I believe is coming from my power steering. I've noticed that i have to add just a little fluid every month.
Picture three Is the black solenoid thing covered in grime (light shining on it)
And picture four, well idk why I added that but it's my crank pulley. There's a thin layer of grime above it and on that tab that looks like there's a 10 on it

 

[SHOtime-95]

And here are some other pics of my car that I've got that I'll throw on here so you guys can see

 

[SHOtime-95]

I JUST remembered something. Sometimes my fuel pump makes a very horrid screeching sound when it is priming. I'm pretty sure it's going bad!

 

[SHOdded]

Definitely doesn't hurt to have a known high quality fuel pump in place. You can make the access door under the rear seat to make it easier on yourself, unless for some reason you need to drop the tank anyways. Let's see what the old MAF can do for you.

Looking through the 60K maintenance HOWTO will help you identify parts
http://web.archive.org/web/20110506202216/http://www.shophoenixproject.com/lower60k/lower60k.htm
http://web.archive.org/web/20110506202226/http://www.shophoenixproject.com/upper60k/upper60k.htm

I think you are describing the CPS as a "solenoid", from the location. Haven't seen the MTX that up close, but sounds right ... Pulling the intake off will definitely get you a better visual on whether it is a valve cover leak or a cam seal leak or both. The oil could also be spray from other leaky seals/hoses migrating up to the CPS area during driving.

Is any of the oil getting on the belts or pulleys? That'd not be good.
https://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/serpbelt/

 

[luigisho]

Just don't use an airtex fuel pump as a replacement. Several failures out of the box and shortly after install have been noted over the last few years.