That is actually kinda normal. Try shifting into a forward gear, then quickly move to reverse. You can try that either holding the pedal down throughout, or slightly engaging the forward gear then depressing the pedal and moving to reverse. Second or fourth works well on my car. Been doing it so long it's second nature. Changing the tranny fluid is a good idea; try Mobil 1 Synthetic Multi-vehicle ATF.
Damaged clutch release bearing OR miss-adjusted clutch cable?
- Thread starter timwarlick
- Start date
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timwarlick
Tim
Tried it, still grinds in reverse.
Are there any adjustments at all on the 95 shift rods? I just bolted it back in place after my clutch change.
I have also pulled my clutch pedal up with my toe so often to allow the cable t readjust that my shoe toe is wearing out.
Are there any adjustments at all on the 95 shift rods? I just bolted it back in place after my clutch change.
I have also pulled my clutch pedal up with my toe so often to allow the cable t readjust that my shoe toe is wearing out.
timwarlick
Tim
Update - I installed a drain plug in my transmission this weekend, drained the standard fluid and added Valvoline Max Life Full Synthetic ATF. No impact on my "can not put into reverse with engine running problem". Driving it to work this week anyway.
kevinspann
Don't take my advice.
You have the plastic bushing still installed at the trans end, and the pedal end of the cable, correct? There should be an identical bushing on the clutch pedal assembly.
mph1001
Member
Did you ever figure this out? I'm having the same issue with my 89. It seems to be worse the hotter the car is. If I only drive for 30 minutes or so I can still get it into reverse with minimal grinding. An hour or longer and and it grinds bad. Was thinking of replacing the clutch cable but haven't yet.
As far as putting it in another gear first, don't try 5th, there is a mechanism that prevents selecting reverse right after taking it out of 5th. Just thought that was worth mentioning.
As far as putting it in another gear first, don't try 5th, there is a mechanism that prevents selecting reverse right after taking it out of 5th. Just thought that was worth mentioning.
timwarlick
Tim
6 month Update - I received an email from the previous owner on this problem.
"When I first got the car, I had the same problem. It was difficult to
shift into gear. I pushed the clutch pedal down a bit by hand, held the
cable, and then pulled the pedal back up so that it clicked a few times.
Went right into gear after that."
Well I AGAIN checked the self adjusting mech and it works fine. The cable is tight.
Today, I took the SHO to my local mechanic who works on my other cars. He insists that the clutch pressure plate that I bought from RC Automotive is incorrect. This is causing the clutch to not completely disengage even though the clutch pedal (and clutch fork) are at their full travel. I do not agree but I do not have another theory, yet.
Have any of you EVER had a clutch pressure plate thickness problem?
"When I first got the car, I had the same problem. It was difficult to
shift into gear. I pushed the clutch pedal down a bit by hand, held the
cable, and then pulled the pedal back up so that it clicked a few times.
Went right into gear after that."
Well I AGAIN checked the self adjusting mech and it works fine. The cable is tight.
Today, I took the SHO to my local mechanic who works on my other cars. He insists that the clutch pressure plate that I bought from RC Automotive is incorrect. This is causing the clutch to not completely disengage even though the clutch pedal (and clutch fork) are at their full travel. I do not agree but I do not have another theory, yet.
Have any of you EVER had a clutch pressure plate thickness problem?
timwarlick
Tim
Update - Mechanic removed my transmission and now says the flywheel was incorrect because it does not have a step. I had the flywheel resurfaced when I did the clutch replacement 6 months ago and I thought the machinist said it was at the minimum of the thickness spec. Does anyone know what the flywheel thickness measurement should be?
sperold
Last to Know
I think you need a new mechanic.
It is hard to imagine a new pressure plate not working.
I don't know what step he is talking about on the flywheel as it would be pretty hard to resurface a flywheel that has a step in the mating surface.
If you take the starter out of one of your other SHOs, you will get an idea of how thick a flywheel should be. If your wheel is stock, and has been machined so there is no difference between the pressure plate mating surface and the crankshaft mating surface, then you could have a problem above and beyond your locator pins.
It is hard to imagine a new pressure plate not working.
I don't know what step he is talking about on the flywheel as it would be pretty hard to resurface a flywheel that has a step in the mating surface.
If you take the starter out of one of your other SHOs, you will get an idea of how thick a flywheel should be. If your wheel is stock, and has been machined so there is no difference between the pressure plate mating surface and the crankshaft mating surface, then you could have a problem above and beyond your locator pins.
My thought is that with the transmission out again, I would shotgun the problem with a new Shosource flywheel, new Luk clutch kit (brand known to be reliable), ceramic TOB, and new TOB actuation shaft bushings. Easy for me to spend your money, I know, but there's so much labor involved in getting to where you are now, I would bite the bullet on all new parts rather than risking any more labor costs trying to pinpoint the issue. I looked in my FSM, but could not find a minimum thickness spec. for the flywheel.
Be sure the clutch disc is not in backwards, and that the flywheel dowels are short enough so the pressure plate is fully seated; sometimes they stick up too much after the flywheel is resurfaced. Be absolutely sure everything is torqued to spec. I hope your mechanic blocked the clutch pedal up before disconnecting the cable.
Be sure the clutch disc is not in backwards, and that the flywheel dowels are short enough so the pressure plate is fully seated; sometimes they stick up too much after the flywheel is resurfaced. Be absolutely sure everything is torqued to spec. I hope your mechanic blocked the clutch pedal up before disconnecting the cable.
kevinspann
Don't take my advice.
The SHO flywheel doesn't have a step.
I'll ask again, is the bushing installed on the cable at the transmission?
I'll ask again, is the bushing installed on the cable at the transmission?
timwarlick
Tim
Update - Ordered a different brand (AMS) clutch assembly (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=200290&cc=1138957&jnid=510&jpid=1) should be here Tuesday. Will compare measurements to the Valeo and then install the new unit.
Per the question above, I installed a new bushing and a new clutch cable prior to the clutch change. The flywheel has been checked out as correct.
Plan is to reinstall the transmission late next week.
Per the question above, I installed a new bushing and a new clutch cable prior to the clutch change. The flywheel has been checked out as correct.
Plan is to reinstall the transmission late next week.
timwarlick
Tim
Update - Problem fixed!
Ordered a different brand clutch assy (AMS Automotive 07-078). Auto shop checked it on a press to be sure it was different than the Valeo clutch assy (i.e. Valeo would not disengage) and then installed it.
Transmission shifts so smoothly now!
Unfortunately, my wallet is much lighter ($1100 for the shops 8 week effort and $200 for the new clutch assy). Trying to get a warranty refund on the Valeo from RCM but he is not answering my emails.
Ordered a different brand clutch assy (AMS Automotive 07-078). Auto shop checked it on a press to be sure it was different than the Valeo clutch assy (i.e. Valeo would not disengage) and then installed it.
Transmission shifts so smoothly now!
Unfortunately, my wallet is much lighter ($1100 for the shops 8 week effort and $200 for the new clutch assy). Trying to get a warranty refund on the Valeo from RCM but he is not answering my emails.
Sounds like the clutch disc was in backwards the first time around, keeping it from releasing completely. The disc is labeled as to engine side and flywheel side.
No step in any SHO flywheel I've ever seen.
No step in any SHO flywheel I've ever seen.
Yep; two insidious installation errors: Clutch disk installed backwards ( people must be mis-reading the writing somehow), and leaving the dowel pins protruding too much after the flywheel is ground so the PP doesn't seat flat against the flywheel.
timwarlick
Tim
Guys, give me a break!
I put the clutch in the correct direction. The difference in clutch disk clearance when checked as an assembly in the press was a double check. I have built a BMW experimental airplane and (3) three wheeled vehicles. I have (4) SHO's. I know how to install a clutch plate facing the correct direction.
I put the clutch in the correct direction. The difference in clutch disk clearance when checked as an assembly in the press was a double check. I have built a BMW experimental airplane and (3) three wheeled vehicles. I have (4) SHO's. I know how to install a clutch plate facing the correct direction.
timwarlick
Tim
One defective clutch plate. Too thick. The second one worked great. Care shifts soooooo smooth now.
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