Water Pump Install - 1992 SHO - Expert Advice Needed...

[SHO---]

Dear SHO Forum,

Hello and Happy Thanksgiving Weekend to everyone here...

I've got 20 questions regarding my water pump install:


1. When installing the 2 new O-Rings, What do I use as a safe rubber lubricant- can I use Dielectric grease or will the silicone in it screw up the innards of the cooling system?


I grabbed whatever water pump O'Reilly's had in stock- which turned out to be a brand new Murray brand pump for $154. The Murray has both the front part of the pump (where the pulley shaft exits), a new pre-mounted pulley, the back part of the pump, a tiny paper gasket, and 2 O-rings...

2. Does the back half of the pump (engine side) ever leak- meaning, do the O-rings (including the tiny paper gasket) ever get old and leak?

3. If the back half of the pump NEVER tends to leak, ever- then why should I even bother changing it as it looks like an unnecessary "pain in the neck" to have to deal with?


If I rent a pressure checker, and put the system under pressure, and it ONLY leaks at the water pump's pulley shaft area (front half of the pump), then that's the only piece I might change- that is, if the other "back half" never ever tends to leak. If I do end up going that route...

4. Should I return the brand new O'Reilly's Murray brand pump (that includes everything), and exchange it for their (special order) "Rebuilt" $50 MasterPro brand water pump- which is only the front half of the pump w/bare pulley shaft only (no pulley included) and a larger paper gasket (goes between front and back half)? Should I exchange for the cheaper "rebuilt" front half only? Is O'Reilly's "Rebuilt" $50 MasterPro brand water pump inferior in any way? In general, are "rebuilt" water pumps inferior? What is the HIGHEST QUALITY brand/pump (new or rebuilt) I can buy? Please elaborate.


My old water pump pulley looks fine- however one of the 4 bolts was apparently NEVER torqued by Ford on the 60K tuneup...

5. What is the proper torque setting (ft lbs) for those 4 water pump pulley bolts?

6. How do I install, and properly torque, my OLD pulley onto the new water pump's pulley shaft while out on the work bench? Please advise safe procedure- one that will avoid damaging my pre-existing pulley. Note: I got my pre-existing pulley bolts loose using my air ratchet while the belts were still tight- however I'm going to have to later TIGHTEN them by hand w/my hand-torque wrench (elcheapo- can't set torque on my air ratchet).


Don't laugh here but I'm serious- If you all tell me not to purchase a rebuilt water pump, but to instead simply remove the front half from my brand new one- then...

7. How do I remove the new water pump's pre-mounted pulley while out on the work bench? Please advise.


I'm a little low on dough right now and would like to save as much time and money as possible (w/out shooting myself in the foot though) so...

8. Is there a way/method/procedure to change my water pump w/out having to remove the big "Crankshaft Vibration and Damper Pulley" down there at the bottom? If yes, please advise. Also, is there a way to change the water pump that does not require the removal of the front passenger wheel?

9. If no, then what special tools do I need to rent from Autozone (Loan-A-Tool) to remove/reinstall that bottom "Crankshaft Vibration and Damper Pulley?" What tools do I need to ask for?

10. Is the "Crankshaft Vibration and Damper Pulley" nut reverse threaded- or anything else I should know about?

11. If I'm using a Harmonic Balancer Puller or something similar to remove the "Crankshaft Vibration and Damper Pulley" (after nut removal)- what thread size bolts do I use with the puller- will they be standard or metric thread?

12. Is there a way/method/procedure to change my water pump w/out having to remove my pre-existing TIMING Belt? If yes, please advise.

13. If there is a way to install the water pump w/out having to remove the pre-existing TIMING Belt, what is the worse case scenario- should the re-used old timing belt ever one day break? Shouldn't the computer protect the motor from damage under such a scenario?

14. If I DO have to remove my TIMING Belt, then why?- is it to avoid getting coolant on it, or is there "clearance issues?"

15. If I do have to remove my TIMING Belt, how do I turn my engine over by hand to "line up the pulleys?" Which "direction" do I turn "what" and with what type of tool...

16. If I do have to remove my TIMING Belt, and I PROPERLY reinstall the old (or new) timing belt back- do I have to "further" properly set the timing "electronically" later with a timing light? If yes, please advise how.


HIGH PERFORMANCE QUESTIONS (WHILE I'M DOWN THERE)...


My Air Conditioner Refrigerant ran dry and I went all Summer without AC- it wasn't too bad. So I was wondering if I could get better performance from "by passing" my AC Compressor with a shorter 6-Ribbbed belt...

17. Can one bypass the AC Compressor by using a shorter 6-Ribbed Belt? If yes, what is the Gate's Part# for that shorter belt? Note: My particular model does not use the giant Serpentine belt- but has 2 separate belts instead.

18. If one can bypass the AC, is the increase in performance "lame" or negligible at best? Please elaborate.

19. I heard a rumor (from a possibly clueless acquaintance) that the SHO AC Compressor is also used for other functions- not JUST Air Condition. Is that true? He claimed it "dehumidified the heater's hot air" Talking about "hot air" LOL! I don't know though- I'm sorta' old school so I better not laugh... Basically, could I possibly damage something else (including components within the AC System itself) by "taking a detour around" and bypassing the AC Compressor completely? Could it ever "confuse" the computer?


The bearings inside my idler pulleys (NSK Japan) look to be of a sealed type...

20. Is there a way to use graphite or something to help them really "ziiiiiiing"- you know, reduce friction? Or is such a thing negligible, performance wise.


Thanks,

 

[kevinspann]

Dear SHO Forum,

Hello and Happy Thanksgiving Weekend to everyone here...

I've got 20 questions regarding my water pump install:


1. When installing the 2 new O-Rings, What do I use as a safe rubber lubricant- can I use Dielectric grease or will the silicone in it screw up the innards of the cooling system?


I grabbed whatever water pump O'Reilly's had in stock- which turned out to be a brand new Murray brand pump for $154. The Murray has both the front part of the pump (where the pulley shaft exits), a new pre-mounted pulley, the back part of the pump, a tiny paper gasket, and 2 O-rings...

2. Does the back half of the pump (engine side) ever leak- meaning, do the O-rings (including the tiny paper gasket) ever get old and leak?

3. If the back half of the pump NEVER tends to leak, ever- then why should I even bother changing it as it looks like an unnecessary "pain in the neck" to have to deal with?


If I rent a pressure checker, and put the system under pressure, and it ONLY leaks at the water pump's pulley shaft area (front half of the pump), then that's the only piece I might change- that is, if the other "back half" never ever tends to leak. If I do end up going that route...

4. Should I return the brand new O'Reilly's Murray brand pump (that includes everything), and exchange it for their (special order) "Rebuilt" $50 MasterPro brand water pump- which is only the front half of the pump w/bare pulley shaft only (no pulley included) and a larger paper gasket (goes between front and back half)? Should I exchange for the cheaper "rebuilt" front half only? Is O'Reilly's "Rebuilt" $50 MasterPro brand water pump inferior in any way? In general, are "rebuilt" water pumps inferior? What is the HIGHEST QUALITY brand/pump (new or rebuilt) I can buy? Please elaborate.


My old water pump pulley looks fine- however one of the 4 bolts was apparently NEVER torqued by Ford on the 60K tuneup...

5. What is the proper torque setting (ft lbs) for those 4 water pump pulley bolts?

6. How do I install, and properly torque, my OLD pulley onto the new water pump's pulley shaft while out on the work bench? Please advise safe procedure- one that will avoid damaging my pre-existing pulley. Note: I got my pre-existing pulley bolts loose using my air ratchet while the belts were still tight- however I'm going to have to later TIGHTEN them by hand w/my hand-torque wrench (elcheapo- can't set torque on my air ratchet).


Don't laugh here but I'm serious- If you all tell me not to purchase a rebuilt water pump, but to instead simply remove the front half from my brand new one- then...

7. How do I remove the new water pump's pre-mounted pulley while out on the work bench? Please advise.


I'm a little low on dough right now and would like to save as much time and money as possible (w/out shooting myself in the foot though) so...

8. Is there a way/method/procedure to change my water pump w/out having to remove the big "Crankshaft Vibration and Damper Pulley" down there at the bottom? If yes, please advise. Also, is there a way to change the water pump that does not require the removal of the front passenger wheel?

9. If no, then what special tools do I need to rent from Autozone (Loan-A-Tool) to remove/reinstall that bottom "Crankshaft Vibration and Damper Pulley?" What tools do I need to ask for?

10. Is the "Crankshaft Vibration and Damper Pulley" nut reverse threaded- or anything else I should know about?

11. If I'm using a Harmonic Balancer Puller or something similar to remove the "Crankshaft Vibration and Damper Pulley" (after nut removal)- what thread size bolts do I use with the puller- will they be standard or metric thread?

12. Is there a way/method/procedure to change my water pump w/out having to remove my pre-existing TIMING Belt? If yes, please advise.

13. If there is a way to install the water pump w/out having to remove the pre-existing TIMING Belt, what is the worse case scenario- should the re-used old timing belt ever one day break? Shouldn't the computer protect the motor from damage under such a scenario?

14. If I DO have to remove my TIMING Belt, then why?- is it to avoid getting coolant on it, or is there "clearance issues?"

15. If I do have to remove my TIMING Belt, how do I turn my engine over by hand to "line up the pulleys?" Which "direction" do I turn "what" and with what type of tool...

16. If I do have to remove my TIMING Belt, and I PROPERLY reinstall the old (or new) timing belt back- do I have to "further" properly set the timing "electronically" later with a timing light? If yes, please advise how.


HIGH PERFORMANCE QUESTIONS (WHILE I'M DOWN THERE)...


My Air Conditioner Refrigerant ran dry and I went all Summer without AC- it wasn't too bad. So I was wondering if I could get better performance from "by passing" my AC Compressor with a shorter 6-Ribbbed belt...

17. Can one bypass the AC Compressor by using a shorter 6-Ribbed Belt? If yes, what is the Gate's Part# for that shorter belt? Note: My particular model does not use the giant Serpentine belt- but has 2 separate belts instead.

18. If one can bypass the AC, is the increase in performance "lame" or negligible at best? Please elaborate.

19. I heard a rumor (from a possibly clueless acquaintance) that the SHO AC Compressor is also used for other functions- not JUST Air Condition. Is that true? He claimed it "dehumidified the heater's hot air" Talking about "hot air" LOL! I don't know though- I'm sorta' old school so I better not laugh... Basically, could I possibly damage something else (including components within the AC System itself) by "taking a detour around" and bypassing the AC Compressor completely? Could it ever "confuse" the computer?


The bearings inside my idler pulleys (NSK Japan) look to be of a sealed type...

20. Is there a way to use graphite or something to help them really "ziiiiiiing"- you know, reduce friction? Or is such a thing negligible, performance wise.


Thanks,

1. I would think dielectric grease would be fine. It won't hurt the cooling system.

2. There should be three o rings...one small one that mates to the block, and two for the crossover tube. With time, the old ones take a set, and are no longer pliable, and can leak once disturbed.

3. Unbolting the pump disturbs/shifts the o-rings around and can result in a catastrophic leak that will **** a crank sensor in just a couple of miles.

4. Some say new is the best. If you change your mind and just get the front half, get the o-ring and small paper gasket set that comes with the entire new pump as well, to replace them.

5. 12-16lb/ft

6. A strap wrench would be a good bet, to go around the pulley and hold it tight. A long screw driver between two of the bolts, across the face of the pulley could also work, but don't stab yourself.

7. If it comes with a pulley, why are you removing it? A strap wrench and air ratchet, or two wrenches. Or any small impact would work. I use my cordless one.

8. If you can get the top two timing covers off, and the pump out without having to remove the lower cover and timing belt, then yes you don't have to remove the crank pulley.

9. http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...alancer-puller-kit/555524/?_requestid=3689972

10. It is not reverse threaded. It is usually very tight. Make sure you use a 6 point socket on it. Either use an impact or the 'starter bump' (Breaker bar and socket on the bolt, with the breaker bar wedged against the subframe, then hit the starter for a second to break it loose).

11. Metric thread. Take out a couple intake bolts and use those. Or an equivalent. I don't recall what size they are.

12. I think you can sneak the pump out without having to remove the belt. But if you have the crank pulley off, it's very easy to remove at that point.

13. The engine is non-interference so there should be no damage

14. Clearance/ease of getting the pump out.

15. There are marks to line up the two cam pulleys and the crank pulley, and there should be lines on the belt to line that up as well (so the "slack" is all on the left side of the belt when installed). Don't let the timing belt worry you, it's VERY easy to time.

16. No, no need (or ability) to change timing.

17. You might be able to, but if your compressor isn't locked up, I wouldn't bother. I don't know if there is enough room to bypass the compressor anyways, the belt would have to come straight from the crank shaft to the alternator.

18. Probably not much gain felt, the compressor isn't turning with the AC off. It acts more like an idler pulley at that point.

19. The compressor also runs when the front defrost/defogger is on.

20. No gains

 

[pjtoledo]

#6

place a boxed-end wrench that is TOO BIG on one of the bolt heads, it must spin without catching the bolt.
place a socket, that fits, with ratchet/breaker bar on one of the other bolts.
hold the wrench stationary while working the ratchet until the pulley rotates around and the socket hits the wrench.
works in either direction, longer wrenches work better.

remember the water pump pulley bolts are metric, be sure to your TOO BIG wrench is also metric.



Perry

 

[SHO---]

Me Again,

Thank you for the kind answers thus far- they've been very helpful...

A few quick questions:

Regarding the "Crankshaft Vibration and Damper Pulley"...

21. If I decide to remove the "Crankshaft Vibration and Damper Pulley" down there at the bottom- how do I, upon re-installation, tighten it up by hand to it's required torque- if the only torque wrench that I have is a 1/2" drive manual hand version? Won't the engine just rotate and move as I try to tighten it back up to whatever torque it should be? What torque should it be (ft lbs)? Also, when I'm loosening, and when I'm re-tightening- what gear should the manual transmission be in? Note: It's currently in neutral.

22. Regarding my question# 15 up above- again...If I do have to remove my TIMING Belt, how do I turn my engine over by hand to "line up the pulleys?" Which "direction" do I turn "what" and with what type of tool... (how do I turn my engine over by hand, and with what, and in what direction do I turn what- the "Crankshaft Vibration and Damper Pulley" before I remove the nut to it? I'm confused in that spot- I think I get the mark alignment part- just don't understand how to physically turn the motor over- to make the timing belt and cam pulleys move to where it all should line up- Oh yeah, how do I know that Cylinder#1 is at TDC- and not some "other" piston/cylinder?)


Regarding the passenger-side plastic inner fender...

23. How do I remove those strange plastic "body shop door-panel looking tabs" that hold the black plastic inner fender in place up inside the wheel well? What's the trick if one doesn't have the special little tool? Do I also need to remove those tiny little Phillips screws around the fender lip's inside perimeter? Basically, which screws should I leave alone, and which ones should I remove?

Regarding proper belt tension settings...

24. What tool do I ask for at Autozone (Loan-A-Tool) to properly set ALL of the 3 belt tensions with- WaterPump/PS, AC/Alt, and TIMING Belt?

25. What is the recommended tension on those 3 belts if new, and what is the tension if re-used (old)? Especially for the Timing Belt? I might take it off to get it out of the way if setting it back up correctly isn't all that difficult as you've seemed to suggest. See my question #22 though.

Regarding my 3rd "missing O-ring" in my new water pump's cardboard box...

26. What size O-rings should I have received, so I can go get the 3rd O-ring. Are 2 of them identical? Because I've only got 2 in the box- but they are not identical- I've got a thicker one, and a skinnier smaller one- and a very lame little paper gasket. No instructions- just generic propaganda in multiple languages- LOL, so any help there with O-ring spec sizes would be much appreciated- also, where should I go to buy a good quality long lasting O-ring not made in China.

Again, Thanks!

 

[jelloslug]

21. Car in gear, and have someone put their foot on the brakes really hard.

22. For the crank just put the crank bolt back on and turn it with a breaker bar. For the cams you can usually do them by hand (with gloves on)

23. Pull the pin out of the center and then the big part should come off easily. You will break some of them but they do sell them in the "Help!" section of any parts store.

24. No such tool, follow the service manual directions.

25. See 24.

26. Buy them from Ford or from Felpro.

 

[rubydist]

A couple of other ideas:

1. I use KY jelly for a "safe for rubber" lubricant / goop to hold o-rings in place - it works well.

21. I put the car in 4th gear and put a screwdriver into the vent slots in the rotor in such a way as it will contact the caliper bracket and prevent rotation of the axle. If you do that on both sides, it is possible to torque that bolt all by yourself.

 

[SHO---]

Me Again,

Still a little hung-up on this part...

22. Regarding my question# 15 up above- again...If I do have to remove my TIMING Belt, how do I turn my engine over by hand to "line up the pulleys" in order to re-install the Timing belt properly? Which "direction" do I turn "what" and with what type of tool... (how do I turn my engine over by hand (by myself w/out a helper), and with what, and in what direction do I turn what- the "Crankshaft Vibration and Damper Pulley" before I remove the nut/bolt to it? I'm confused in that spot- I think I get the mark alignment part- just don't understand how to "physically" turn the motor over- to make the timing belt and cam pulleys move to where it all should line up- Oh yeah, how do I know that Cylinder#1 is at TDC- and not some "other" piston/cylinder?)

27. To do the above, (assuming both front wheels are up off of the ground and no key is in the ignition) could I put the car into 5th gear, then turn the passenger side front wheel? If so, which way do I turn the wheel- clockwise? If no, why is this procedure not recommended?

Again, Thanks for all of your help thus far!

 

[jelloslug]

Me Again,

Still a little hung-up on this part...

22. Regarding my question# 15 up above- again...If I do have to remove my TIMING Belt, how do I turn my engine over by hand to "line up the pulleys" in order to re-install the Timing belt properly? Which "direction" do I turn "what" and with what type of tool... (how do I turn my engine over by hand (by myself w/out a helper), and with what, and in what direction do I turn what- the "Crankshaft Vibration and Damper Pulley" before I remove the nut/bolt to it? I'm confused in that spot- I think I get the mark alignment part- just don't understand how to "physically" turn the motor over- to make the timing belt and cam pulleys move to where it all should line up- Oh yeah, how do I know that Cylinder#1 is at TDC- and not some "other" piston/cylinder?)

27. To do the above, (assuming both front wheels are up off of the ground and no key is in the ignition) could I put the car into 5th gear, then turn the passenger side front wheel? If so, which way do I turn the wheel- clockwise? If no, why is this procedure not recommended?

Again, Thanks for all of your help thus far!

22. Put the crank bolt back in and use a breaker bar to turn the engine over. It does not matter which way you turn it but you are only going to be able to turn it one way with the crank bolt. You can also use the crank pulley to turn it by hand but that will only work if you take all the plugs out.

27. All you are trying to do is lock the drive train in place so nothing will rotate. There are a bunch of different ways to do it but your end result is to make it so the crank won't turn.

 

[itwonder]

IIRC, the new water pumps (they are made in Japan by Aisin; top quality) don't come with exactly the right gaskets. Get the Felpro ES70425 water pump gasket kit.

1. You can lubricate the o-rings with a little Antifreeze. Don't use grease. KY Jelly is okay.

22. Before removing the crank pulley, turn the engine over with the bolt until the timing marks on the pulleys align with their respective marks ( See the front 60K procedure ). They should stay that way as you work on the water pump, making timing belt re-installation easier.

24. I don't think AZ has belt tension loan-a-tools, but I may be wrong. You can get close by tightening them until you can just twist the belt 90 degrees at the midpoint along its longest run using two fingers. There is a decent inexpensive gauge: Gates 91132 Krikit Belt Tension Tester; $15 on Amazon.

2. Yes, the little o-ring that goes between the water pump body and the block is a leaker.

3. When you remove the bolts to get the center of the WP off, the same bolts hold the WP body in place, so it is loose. Generally, the body will shift on you just enough so that the little o-ring will leak when you put it back together. Some claim success doing it that way, but IMHO it's a risky shortcut.

4. Some have great luck with the rebuilt WP's. On my car, a rebuilt one lasted 2,000 miles. The new one that replaced it has 90K and counting.

 

[Toolman]

No need to remove timing belt. Pump should be a 30 min procedure tops. Just do the front half.

 

[SHO---]

Me Again,

OK, figured out that it's pretty easy to turn the engine over clockwise using a ratchet handle that is at least 16 inches long or longer- go figure...

So now I can line up the little dots on the cam pulleys with the vertical lines embossed into the timing belt cover's rear metal gold backing plate.

28. So when I do that, that is- line up both dots at the top part of each cam pulley with both the corresponding embossed vertical lines on the metal backing plate, does that ALWAYS, and mean ALWAYS- mean that Piston#1 is at Top-Dead-Center (TDC)? That's where I get confused- Please elaborate.


Assuming that I'm going to change both the Water Pump, and the Timing Belt both at the same time- and that I am about to loosen the Crankshaft Damper Pulley bolt...

29. Do I first, before loosening the bolt, turn the Damper Pulley clockwise via the bolt- using my 16 inch long ratchet handle, until I align the Cam Pulley dots with the Backing Plate's embossed vertical lines? If yes, is there anything else that I need to know about- like the position of those 3 little notches notched into my Damper Pulley- and their relation to my "0 Degree" mark on my outside bottom grey plastic timing cover? Please elaborate.


Here's basically what has confused me- when I line up the tiny little dot at the top of each cam pulley- with the corresponding vertically embossed backing plate line, all at the same time, so that both cam pulleys look identical- that is, each dot is at the top on both of the pulleys- and everything looks good and aligned, I notice that I can sometimes do that alignment with a tiny little "notch" down on the Damper Pulley perfectly aligned with the "0 Degree" mark on the plastic timing cover...

A lame Chilton manual that I have references colors for those tiny little notches- a "yellow notch" and a "white notch" with no mention of a third notch? I have 3 notches (not just 2) - with NO colors!

30. How do I know which of my notches is which color?


Using trial and error, I think I know which (of the 3) should be the "yellow" and the "white"- but I'm not absolutely sure- here's why I'm not sure...

When I line up the Cam Pulley dots/lines (all at the top), and also- that is, simultaneously- line up (what I believe to be the "white" notch) with the "0 Degree" mark- my timing belt's painted "K0A" writing and painted "cam pulley/belt alignment lines" are no where to be found up at the top- like others suggest to be the case. This puzzles me...

If instead, I decide to only watch the belt itself, that is- rotate the Crankshaft Damper Pulley until the Timing belt comes around up there and matches- that is, the Timing Belt's horizontally painted lines- line up also with the metal backing plate's embossed vertical lines, my cam pulley dots end up both being pointed DOWNWARD- that is, each dot is not at the top of the pulley in line with the backing plate mark and painted belt line- but instead lined up with those "top lines" however down at the BOTTOM- not up there at the top. The small dots are at the "6 O'clock" position instead of the "12 O'clock" position. The painted belt lines, and the vertically embossed backing plate lines are all at the "12 O'clock" position. As far as the Crank Damper Pulley "notches" go- ha, they are nowhere to be found! That is, when you look downward at the "0 Degree" mark on the bottom plastic cover- you see nothing but a smooth damper pulley lip- no notch at all? BTW, my car has always run perfectly and strong- always. Please elaborate- to explain the theory of what is going on- so I can "get it."

I think what may have happened is this- somebody had all of the lines and notches all lined up- and never gave a second thought to the painted lines on the belt- they just slapped the belt on- cause, hey- they knew what they were doing.

31. So, are the painted lines on the belt simply there for morons- or perhaps as a safety net alert- to ensure to the installer that "hey yeah, alright- it all matches up so I must have got my cam pulleys and damper pulley all in the right spot- now let's move on"


If I forget about the painted belt marks, and assuming I end up KNOWING what color notch is which- and I align my pulley dots with their marks at 12:00 position, and I've simultaneously got my "white" notch at "0 Degree" position- I end up finding out that my Crankshaft Damper Pulley's threaded guide holes (M8x1.25), for the puller, are not ideally aligned. That is, one of them is too high- like at the 10 O'clock position- it's impossible to get my puller bolt in it there- I've got to turn the damper pulley off of the "0 Degree" mark in order to provide adequate clearance for my two puller bolts. So...

32. Why, before pulling off the crankshaft damper pulley, does it have to be at the "0 Degree" spot anyway? What's the point of it all? Please elaborate/advise.


And speaking of Crankshaft Damper Pulleys...

Mine has about a 1 inch chunk missing from the inside lip (motor side) which is causing my water pump belt to slightly fray to the inside- only slightly though. So...

33. Can that missing chunk of cast iron cause my damper pulley to become imbalanced- like a car wheel missing a wheel weight? If yes, could that prematurely wear out my crankshaft bearing/seal?


Speaking of crankshaft oil seals...

34. Should I replace the oil seal while I'm down here, or is that a waste of time?

35. If I do decide to change that oil seal- what special AutoZone Loan-a-Tool do I need to rent to do the job safely and superbly?


Again, Sincerest thanks to ALL the kind folks above who have helped thus far!

 

[kevinspann]

28. No, the cams turn at half the speed of the crankshaft. With the lower timing cover pulley off there is an embossed mark on the oil pump that lines up with a dot on the crankshaft pulley for the timing belt.

29. Align the notch on the crank pulley with the 0 mark, and verify that the dots on the cam pulleys are lined up with the backing plate. I don't recall there being three, but I could be forgetting. Per #28, if you have the crank pulley for the timing belt lined up properly, it will be fine.

30. The lines on the belt will not line up with the dots on the pulleys every time, that is only for initial installation of the belt.

31. The lines are to make sure that you have all of the "slack" on the correct side of the belt, where the tensioner is.

32. I'm sure there is a better reason, but it does allow you to set the crankshaft at TDC without pulling the timing covers.

33. I'm sure it does minutely, but that's assuming it was perfectly balanced to begin with it. If it is causing an issue with the drive belt, I would try to find another.

34. It is the best time to change it.

35. They may make a seal puller for it. I have just carefully drilled a screw into it and pulled it out with a pair of pliers. At your own risk. Someone else may be able to offer better advice.

 

[SHO---]

Me Again,

Regarding Setting Piston#1 to TDC...

36. How do I set Piston#1 to TDC with the outside middle/bottom plastic timing belt covers still installed, and the Crankshaft Damper Pulley ALSO still installed?

37. How do I set Piston#1 to TDC with the outside middle and bottom plastic timing belt covers REMOVED, and the Crankshaft Damper Pulley ALSO REMOVED?

38. Why can't I just remove the Crankshaft Damper Pulley, THEN set Piston#1 to TDC? (See My Question# 32 and its preceding comment) If I can, what's the process/technique?


Regarding the Crankshaft Oil Seal...

39. What size is the oil seal? (Also See My Question# 35)

 

[rubydist]

you turn the crank pulley until the mark lines up at 0 degrees on the cover label.

or, you turn the crank sprocket until the mark lines up with the mark on the oil pump housing.

you can remove the damper pulley if you want, but don't do it just for something to do, you have enough to do already.

you have to think differently about setting timing on ohc engines than on old-school V8s - the #1 piston is always at tdc when the timing on the crank is 0*, but that does not tell you if compression or exhaust stroke - you tell which stroke by the orientation of the cam sprockets. if the cam sprockets are set at the timing mark, and the crank is at 0*, then you have it set right to install the timing belt.

 

[SHO---]

itwonder,

Thanks for your VERY helpful reply...

40. What does IIRC stand for?

41. Who sells the "Aisin" brand water pump mentioned above and what is the Aisin Part#?

42. Also, my old timing belt says "PowerGrip" and "Made in Japan" and "K0A-A3527-00"- are those good quality? If so, do you know who sells them?

43. How about Crankshaft Position Sensors- what's the highest quality (most durable) out there, and where might it be purchased?

Again, thanks!

 

[kevinspann]

40. If I Recall Correctly

41. Not sure.

42. That is the original belt to the car, so yes it is good quality. I've used a Gates belt and it works just fine. Opinions may vary.

43. Not sure. Most will probably say Motorcraft is the best, but the aftermarket (BWD and the like) sensors work fine. Probably all made by one MFR and in different boxes.

 

[rubydist]

Aisin made the oem parts.

I have had the same luck / durability regardless of which brand of crank sensor I bought, others have had somewhat different experiences with the aftermarket brands.

 

[itwonder]

40. Yep, Kevin got it IIRC - short for "if I recall correctly"
41. The manufacturer is Aisin Seiki in Japan. They are sold under various brands including Oreilly's and Autozone Duratec. If you got a brand new water pump, and it has the new pulley on it, and it's made in Japan, then it's undoubtedly an Aisin, and it is very good. They are the same pumps that were installed on the SHO engine at the factory, as Fred has pointed out.
42. Powergrip is a brand of the Gates corporation. Top quality parts.
43. There's only one or two manufacturers for these anymore, and they are sold under various brands at different parts stores. I used a Wells SU242, which I notice is now about 1/2 the price of the other CPS Rockauto sells, Standard Motor Products. Might solicit other opinions on the list; it's been several years since I've had to buy one, but I don't think it makes much difference which one you choose.

Good luck with your project!

 

[itwonder]

BTW, there is a front 60K walk through that is very helpful for the work you are doing. The shophoenixproject site that hosted it is down, but you can grab a copy from this dropbox:

https://www.dropbox.com/l/EeLRPOedZ8ULdnVBrTUGOo

file name: SHO MTX Front 60k Service - SHO Phoenix.doc
or
SHO MTX Front 60k Service - SHO Phoenix.pdf

 

[SHOtimer]

Here's a website with a how-to, which would be helpful to read through....

http://web.archive.org/web/20110506202216/http://www.shophoenixproject.com/lower60k/lower60k.htm

BTW, where in HI do you live? I used to live in Mililani.

Doug