12th out of 28 with the SHO

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TimboSHO

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After having so much fun in the Miata at autocross, I decided to take the SHO! Tons of fun! I made some rookie mistakes in the morning, but really started to get the feel for the car in the afternoon. I think I will be taking the SHO out autocrossing more often! I would have been 11th, but the last run of the day put me down a spot. Bummer! The car had much more left in it, but I need to keep working on the driver mod!

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Is that tire lift on the right rear?
 
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jayro

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Is that tire lift on the right rear?

Looks like it might be. If not it is really close. I had fun in the SHO when I would autoX fairly frequently. I gradually started moving up the results list after a few. Funny thing is that I really didn't feel like I was going faster or that I was doing a lot different. Guess it is true that as you get more comfortable and are able to hit your lines better it actually feels like you are going slower.
 

platoribs

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There's aMiata club near me, probably the most prolific brand for keeping autocross events going strong, I plan on going out with them next year in the SC.
 

TimboSHO

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What kind of cars were you up against?

Oh yeah, I should have posted this too http://api.axti.me/Results/Event/mz1e927alz

This is the Michiana BMW club, so lots of bimmers. A nice Shelby stang and a couple of race prepped 911s. Lots of pretty nice cars.

Needs more air pressure up front.....:naughty:

Yeah, I noticed that too. I was trying to run them with a bit less pressure because of the cold temps, but I think I could have bumped them up a couple of pounds still.
 

SHOspazz92

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The best piece of advise I can give you with the SHO...ecspecially if you are new to Autocrossing it is this:

If you have pretty good lines, keep that up. However, everything you're doing...Back it up 10 feet. The key to Autocrossing the SHO is being early with every steering input. It's a very easy car to get behind on course in. It only takes getting behind on one element on the course to make you be behind the rest of the course and you end up putting in way more steering input then you have to!

Remember that next time and see if it helps! I have to remind myself of that often...but when I do I end up working the steering wheel a LOT less (And end up going faster!)

And yes, Considering you running hardly any Camber (Which all SHO's that are regularly Auto-X'd and tracked should be at a BARE minimum -2.5* up front)...You'll need to probably bump the front pressure to help with the tires rolling over on themselves. If the car won't rotate...bump those suckers up to 45 in the rear.
 
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TimboSHO

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The best piece of advise I can give you with the SHO...ecspecially if you are new to Autocrossing it is this:

If you have pretty good lines, keep that up. However, everything you're doing...Back it up 10 feet. The key to Autocrossing the SHO is being early with every steering input. It's a very easy car to get behind on course in. It only takes getting behind on one element on the course to make you be behind the rest of the course and you end up putting in way more steering input then you have to!

Remember that next time and see if it helps! I have to remind myself of that often...but when I do I end up working the steering wheel a LOT less (And end up going faster!)

And yes, Considering you running hardly any Camber (Which all SHO's that are regularly Auto-X'd and tracked should be at a BARE minimum -2.5* up front)...You'll need to probably bump the front pressure to help with the tires rolling over on themselves. If the car won't rotate...bump those suckers up to 45 in the rear.

Thank you for the advice! I did seem to get behind a bit, and was working that wheel pretty good at times.

I drilled out the strut towers, and I don't think I got quite -1.5* with my intrax/koni setup. I would like more camber in the front, and will probably try adjustable mounts. I was wondering if I should run a little toe in on the front as well? The back seems to work well at -1.25* (tire temp the same across the whole tire after tracking). The car will definitely rotate, I had issues with the back coming around a couple of times. I think I might try removing the rear strut tower bar next time out to see if it stays more planted. I will also have to actively play with the tire pressures some more.

I know the car has a lot more in it, I just need to keep playing with different setups. This was it's first auto-x, so it can only get better from here!
 

TimboSHO

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Oh yes, I wanted to add: I've never worked the quaife that hard. It was quite awesome! That thing was groaning like crazy, but I was told by onlookers that it looked like it rocketed out of turns even at full lock.

So one question I had. Can you overwork the quaife? I'm sure it's a good idea to change the fluid after engaging it so much. Anything else?
 

SHOspazz92

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Thank you for the advice! I did seem to get behind a bit, and was working that wheel pretty good at times.

I drilled out the strut towers, and I don't think I got quite -1.5* with my intrax/koni setup. I would like more camber in the front, and will probably try adjustable mounts. I was wondering if I should run a little toe in on the front as well? The back seems to work well at -1.25* (tire temp the same across the whole tire after tracking). The car will definitely rotate, I had issues with the back coming around a couple of times. I think I might try removing the rear strut tower bar next time out to see if it stays more planted. I will also have to actively play with the tire pressures some more.

I know the car has a lot more in it, I just need to keep playing with different setups. This was it's first auto-x, so it can only get better from here!

If it were me, I'd leave the rear end as loose as possible. Learn to drive the car like like that...and eventually the you learn to use it to your advantage. On some courses letting the car rotate is the fastest way to get this boat around course. You'll eventually become smooth enough (By being early with your inputs!) that the rear end will stay planted (Because your not upsetting the car with late, sloppy inputs) and the rear will only come out when commanded to. =)

Oh yes, I wanted to add: I've never worked the quaife that hard. It was quite awesome! That thing was groaning like crazy, but I was told by onlookers that it looked like it rocketed out of turns even at full lock.

So one question I had. Can you overwork the quaife? I'm sure it's a good idea to change the fluid after engaging it so much. Anything else?

Funny. I've made it my absolute goal to make my Quaife as USELESS as possible. It's worked. My transmission temps don't even think about climbing. But yes, if the Quaife is working hard then Transmission temps start climbing pretty rapidly. The only thing I would do for fluid is maybe look in to something that handles heat pretty well.

-Sam
 
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