Injector Dynamics ID1000's - Tested and confirmed.

[rooster]

Sure, with a SHOshop LPM. Try actually tuning for them. Also, I'll be testing your old VMP slot style MAF, I understand you had some major trouble with yours. Mine works fantastic, however your old one is being sent my way so we can see if it is bad or not, as it really didn't want to work in a different car either.

-Sam

I'm tuned with a Quarter Hourse and B.E. The car runs better now than it ever has.
There was too much turbulance with the piping I have. I think with more time and desire, I could have got it to work. But, I would have had to change my setup and it's position. That MAF is really better for a suck through system

 

[yamahaSHO]

The blow-through VMP is a much better design than a Lightning 80 or 90mm MAF and I have gotten those to work just fine. I have a lot of transition to-through-after my MAF and got the VMP to reduce it all down to 3" with lots of straights. I am also opening up the ****** on my BOV to allow more air to freely exit as the SS ****** necks down a good bit.


Any BT MAF, especially with a supercharger is going to see turbulence and oscillations.

 

[Toolman]

The maf is on its way to you Sam, and the fuel line is on its way to you jason.

As far as the VMP mafs, I am having issues. Probably deserves its own thread, but oh well. I tried two diff mafs, two diff pigtails, on two different SHO's, with two diff tweecers, and in both BE and CalEdit. My kg/hr was static at 32xx. Which of course caused the car to run very rich. Hopefully when Sam gets the maf he can shed more light on the issue. I have used a VMP before, worked like a charm, simply plugged in the provided numbers for a 3'' tube, and car immediately started and idled like a champ. I have no idea why the last two I tried were having issues. Verified that the tweecer and tune and every other variable was working fine, the only issue was with the maf. weird stuff.

 

[Sho Amo]

Tim, you aren't talking about my old maf are you? Mine ran beautiful.

I recommend the VMP maf to anyone.

 

[SHOspazz92]

Tim, you aren't talking about my old maf are you? Mine ran beautiful.

I recommend the VMP maf to anyone.

Negative, your old MAF is in my car and it works GREAT.

-Sam

 

[shomethe$$$]

Nice, do you just discard the lower seal and use the Denso one's? No sealing issues against the cylinder head right?

 

[yamahaSHO]

I haven't verified yet. I am going to try and get these installed tonight/tomorrow. I need to do a valve lash, so I figured I would knock it all out at the same time.

 

[shomethe$$$]

Please do because looking at that injector how do you keep the injector from going into the rail?

On bored rails you can usually put a upper retainer to keep it going into the rail.

This is just a picture I found online, looking at most of these have grooves where someone can either put horseshoeclip/E-clips or the stocker style retainer's or the denso one's you have like the lower retainer, however, looking the the ID1000's you have I don't see how you can put the upper retainer unless its using that curved area where the diameter widens. if I recall your using a AEM rail? it may already have some sort of landing to otherwise I just don't see how the cylinder head side seal is going fit tightly against its surface without that upper retainer, you all see what I'm saying here or am I way off base?

Secondly, make sure you don't push the injectors too far into the bored rail because once it gets passed the inside opening groove, they are a pain to get back out and risks' cutting the seal, one reason you need the upper retainer.

Thirdly, will there be any issues of the extended connector hitting the intake runner backside or do the injectors face toward the openings between each runner.

 

[yamahaSHO]

Please do because looking at that injector how do you keep the injector from going into the rail?

On bored rails you can usually put a upper retainer to keep it going into the rail.

Like any other injector, with fuel pressure. The only way they will go too far into the rail is if you push it in yourself. There is always 43.5 PSI (relative) on the rails regardless of vacuum and boost.

This is just a picture I found online, looking at most of these have grooves where someone can either put horseshoeclip/E-clips or the stocker style retainer's or the denso one's you have like the lower retainer, however, looking the the ID1000's you have I don't see how you can put the upper retainer unless its using that curved area where the diameter widens. if I recall your using a AEM rail? it may already have some sort of landing to otherwise I just don't see how the cylinder head side seal is going fit tightly against its surface without that upper retainer, you all see what I'm saying here or am I way off base?

Explained above.

AEM makes rails for this car? If your talking about the rails for my STi, they ate T1 and designed like the SHO rail concerning upper O-ring and no clips.

Secondly, make sure you don't push the injectors too far into the bored rail because once it gets passed the inside opening groove, they are a pain to get back out and risks' cutting the seal, one reason you need the upper retainer.

I've had bored rails for quite awhile, I'm aware that pushing them too far up would cause issues (no, I have not done it).

Thirdly, will there be any issues of the extended connector hitting the intake runner backside or do the injectors face toward the openings between each runner.

If I can't turn the injector to clear, I can repin with the clips that come with the injectors or try the other I posted a pic of.

 

[somedude_001]

to keep my injectors from falling into the rail I slid a piece of cut rubber hose over it. The hose was only there to prevent me from knocking them into the rail. cheap and easy fix.

 

[yamahaSHO]

Got some time to swap the ID1000's into the SHO, as well as a WRX. So far, everything seems swell. I tried to pressure test it, but apparently I need new crush washers on my banjo bolt from one of the 2 feed lines. I was able to get it up to pressure with the leak and didn't have any leaking from the injectors.

Some notes:

- From seal to seal, they are perfect.
- You don't have to worry about the seal going too far into the rail as the bevel of the aluminum (purple) adapter does not allow it.
- The Aluminum adapter also helps apply pressure to seal the seal in the head.
- I elected to use the "Denso" cushions in the head and they were a perfect fit. I tested the stock seal and it appeard that it would work as well, but I figured I would replace.
- I did have to cut off the black plastic ring on the bottom of the injector. It is there for to hold O-ring seals and actually should have been removed prior to me receiving them as I elected to get the Denso cushions.
- I have not installed the intake yet, but it looks like the Ford Racing EV1-to-EV6 adapter will fit without hitting the intake... It's a tight fit.


Comparison: Accel 48 lb/hr on the left / Injector Dynamics 95 lb/hr on right

Fitment

EV1-to-EV6 adapter

 

[intimdatr]

Looking good!

 

[yamahaSHO]

Got the car back together and it fired right up and idled. I will go out and do some scaling tomorrow. One of the biggest things I want to play with is injector timing, however, the tables on the SHO binary will test my brain. I may start with the global multiplier and see how that goes.

 

[SHOdded]

Boom or bust?

Dyno'ing it soon?

 

[SHOspazz92]

Moooooooooar corn!

 

[yamahaSHO]

Dyno'ing it soon?

That's likely, but I have some quite a bit of little stuff to button up and then retune.

Moooooooooar corn!

Like this?

 

[intimdatr]

Whats the thought behind adjusting the injector timing? More power or just better drivability?

 

[yamahaSHO]

A little bit of both. At WOT, not anything to really gain, I have more agressive cams than stock, so I would like to not "short circuit" the intake-exhaust overlap and waste fuel out the exhasut. I'm hoping it will cure some of the drivability issues that I have, but I think most of that is MAF placement as I didn't have them with the MAF pre-blower.

If can get the timing right (delayed) for the exhaust valve close event, I should waste less fuel, gain a better idle, and gain some low end drivability.

 

[rubydist]

This is just a picture I found online, looking at most of these have grooves where someone can either put horseshoeclip/E-clips or the stocker style retainer's or the denso one's you have like the lower retainer, however, looking the the ID1000's you have I don't see how you can put the upper retainer unless its using that curved area where the diameter widens.

Do those 42 lb Lightning injectors fit in the SHO rails/heads?

 

[yamahaSHO]

Did a few untuned pulls today in the SHO. I haven't been past 7k RPM in years and today I found the rev limiter (8k) in 3rd gear... I suppose the tach is a little off.

With a mix of 3/4 tank of E85 and 1/4 tank of 93 octane, I hit 58% IDC @ 8,000 RPM. It pulls nicely for a gas timing tune and running a gas referenced AFR of 10ish:1. I will target 12:1 for a gas referenced AFR and probably run stock timing levels, although smoothed out.

Some things I have noticed...

- As big as these injectors are, running at like 1% IDC at idle, they idle perfectly fine (gas and E85). Most of the idle is controlled by the Latency/Offset, so it was pretty easy to dial in with the "real-time" feature of the QuarterHorse and BE.

- The engine bay is much cooler when I pop the hood. We notice this on the WRX's and STi's we convert over as well.

- The car fires up and runs like normal having made all the necessary changes for swapping injectors and scaling them down for E85.

- Knock... What is that? Seriously, there's no deviation from commanded timing at WOT. I will be adding around 5-7 degrees more timing when I'm in the latter stages of tuning.



Right now, I'm just trying to run this tank as dry as possible and then refill. I won't do any real tuning until I have at least 2 tanks run through as the AFR's will change with every fill up before then. My 10ish:1 will probably bump up to the high 11's on the next tank.

On a side note, I did have to tighten the gap of the plugs for E85. They're at .024" - .025" now. I was occasionally blowing out spark with gas gapped at .034" and from prior experience with E85, we needed to tighten the gap more than we needed with gas.