A/C Condenser Replacement

[JRA2000TL]

Search did not bring up much, surprisingly. Anyway, how difficult is this to do on a 95 MTX? Doesn't seem to be difficult with labor booking at 2.3 hours.

A little history on my a/c issues and why I think it needs a condenser:

I bought car with non-working a/c. I figured out compressor came on only at a cold start-up, so I charged system on a cold-start. A/C cooled then went warm. OK, clutch needs re-shimmed. I removed a shimmed, recharged, A/C worked great long-term. Then it went warm on me at the convention. I recharged it and it's done fine until recently. I haven't driven it much, but I've had to recharge it 2-3 times in the 2-3 times I've driven it. Basically it all leaks out as soon as it's charged (give a couple of days).

I bought the glasses and black light kit; the only place I see refrigerent (other than where the can leaked on the firewall L side) is right where the condenser connects to those lines behind the pass headlight.

Since the 134a has leaked out, can I just remove and install a condenser, then take it to a shop and have them do a vacuum and recharge? If I take the car to the shop now, they will tell me all my a/c lines are rusty (yes they are), and will want to give me a $1200 overhaul. I know this drill.

Any suggestions?

 

[jelloslug]

Yep. I also would replace every o-ring (including the ones for the metal blocks to the compressor) and the service port schrader valves (both high and low sides).

 

[JRA2000TL]

Ok, I've never done a/c work and I'm pretty intimidated by opening the system up. I have Ford shop manual. Is it more difficult than doing a front or top 60k?

 

[jelloslug]

Ok, I've never done a/c work and I'm pretty intimidated by opening the system up. I have Ford shop manual. Is it more difficult than doing a front or top 60k?

It's very easy. You just need to keep things clean. All the fittings except the connections on the compressor are spring clip connections and each spring clip connection has two orings. The service port valves can be changed with a tire valve core tool.

 

[kevinspann]

Just remember, the WRONG way to discharge it, is with a sawzall. Not that I've done that or anything.



Hey, look! The hole in the ozone layer is getting bigger!

 

[jon93]

Ok, I've never done a/c work and I'm pretty intimidated by opening the system up. I have Ford shop manual. Is it more difficult than doing a front or top 60k?

 

[SHOtimer]

It's very easy. You just need to keep things clean. All the fittings except the connections on the compressor are spring clip connections and each spring clip connection has two orings. The service port valves can be changed with a tire valve core tool.

Exactly. I don't think you necessarily need a new condenser, just change the O-rings.

Doug

 

[SHO1]

Condensor shouldn't be to hard at all except maybe getting those connections to the lines off.

 

[SHOtimer]

Condensor shouldn't be to hard at all except maybe getting those connections to the lines off.

You just have to pull the fans, pull the radiator, then it is right there. It isn't hard, just a pain.

Doug

 

[JRA2000TL]

Thanks everyone. Never touched an a/c, so I wasn't sure what I was getting into. Looks like RockAuto has o-rings and spring clips. I can just order some of those first and and try that. I'm wondering if I can replace the o-ring connections at the condenser without removing it. Looks tight in that corner area.

Also, how many o-rings and springs do I need? There's a diagram of the a/c system and in my shop manual; but it doesn't say off-hand, I don't believe.

And one last question...what is the difference between the $18 Motorcraft o-ring YF-982 and Four Seasons # 26719 o-ring kit? Do I need both?? I'm one of those visual people, so that's why a/c is difficult to comprehend without pictures or someone giving me a run through on the actual car.

I call the shop to get an estimate and they ask if there's stop leak in it. I told them I'm not sure if the recharge can with the dye I used has it; they told me if it has stop-leak in it, that they can't touch it. So, I ask, well who can? He said nobody would. I said well why don't I just discharge it out into the atmosphere; won't that clear it? "Uh well it can but if it's had stop-leak in it, it'll mess our machine up". Different shop--next.

 

[SHOtimer]

I'm wondering if I can replace the o-ring connections at the condenser without removing it. Looks tight in that corner area.

Yes you can.

Doug

 

[JRA2000TL]

Thanks. Called around to a few shops today just in case I wind up taking it in (which I'd like to have a shop evacuate and recharge regardless of who does the repair).

1st shop said NO because I used a recharge with stop leak/sealer. 2nd shop is an "auto a/c only" shop and asked if I had it in there and told them yes, and they just said bring it in. 3rd shop told me they would look at it.

The brand I used is Interdynamics / Quest which is about the ONLY brand you find at Walmart or any parts store. All of their producs claim to be system safe and will not clog your a/c system nor damage the shop's machine.

Either way, I need to find the cause of the problem, but some of these sites make it sound like putting this stuff in will **** my entire a/c system. Is that the case?

 

[jelloslug]

Thanks. Called around to a few shops today just in case I wind up taking it in (which I'd like to have a shop evacuate and recharge regardless of who does the repair).

1st shop said NO because I used a recharge with stop leak/sealer. 2nd shop is an "auto a/c only" shop and asked if I had it in there and told them yes, and they just said bring it in. 3rd shop told me they would look at it.

The brand I used is Interdynamics / Quest which is about the ONLY brand you find at Walmart or any parts store. All of their producs claim to be system safe and will not clog your a/c system nor damage the shop's machine.

Either way, I need to find the cause of the problem, but some of these sites make it sound like putting this stuff in will **** my entire a/c system. Is that the case?

Just buy a cheap Harbor Freight vacuum pump and charge it yourself. For the vast majority of people if you just change all the o-rings and replace any known damaged components, you can just pump it down for an hour and charge it back up yourself.

 

[Bob Gervais]

Git in da 'Zone

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...filterByKeyWord=vacuum+pump&fromString=search

 

[SHO1]

Yep, you can find those kind for around 20 bucks lots a places and you have air, should be good to go.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Ok, I tested the a/c again...re-filled it and got 38 degrees from the center vents; equipment working well. I went out of town on Monday, came back today and checked it--blowing warm, so everything has leaked out.

Now; I bought one of those cheapy HF $15 venturi vacuum pumps and an adapter line. I connected it to my garage compressor and got it to pull a vacuum from the top port. Ok fine...now I'm guessing I need to buy a special line with an a/c fitting to connect it to the hi or low side port then to the pump to vacuum the system. I am clueless on using these but want to learn. Google has not been my friend and I found no videos showing anyone using this type of vacuum on a car a/c.

I think the liquid line connecting the condensor that runs under the battery (liquid line w/ oriface tube) is the culprit or maybe the condenser itself as the dye shows up both on the line and at the condenser attachment. I hate to throw parts at it and I found a reputable shop to diagnose it for $30; which I may have them take a look.

I'd like to learn a/c work but at the same time, I hate to go through the expense of throwing parts at it on top of buying all of the a/c equipment; which = lots more headache and cheaper if I took it to the shop.

Guidance on using this vacuum pump? Should I get the $40 HF a/c gauge set? Now that the refrigerant has leaked out, I can probably buy the $20 spring connector tools and detach and replace the line and o-rings. I'm a visual person and really like pictures/videos to learn, so when someone explains something, it doesn't always make sense. After hands on doing 60ks and rod bearings, the process is so much easier to understand. A/C is the black hole of "I know nothing" for me. As long as I own a Ford, I need to learn to do A/C work.

 

[jelloslug]

Ok, I tested the a/c again...re-filled it and got 38 degrees from the center vents; equipment working well. I went out of town on Monday, came back today and checked it--blowing warm, so everything has leaked out.

Now; I bought one of those cheapy HF $15 venturi vacuum pumps and an adapter line. I connected it to my garage compressor and got it to pull a vacuum from the top port. Ok fine...now I'm guessing I need to buy a special line with an a/c fitting to connect it to the hi or low side port then to the pump to vacuum the system. I am clueless on using these but want to learn. Google has not been my friend and I found no videos showing anyone using this type of vacuum on a car a/c.

I think the liquid line connecting the condensor that runs under the battery (liquid line w/ oriface tube) is the culprit or maybe the condenser itself as the dye shows up both on the line and at the condenser attachment. I hate to throw parts at it and I found a reputable shop to diagnose it for $30; which I may have them take a look.

I'd like to learn a/c work but at the same time, I hate to go through the expense of throwing parts at it on top of buying all of the a/c equipment; which = lots more headache and cheaper if I took it to the shop.

Guidance on using this vacuum pump? Should I get the $40 HF a/c gauge set? Now that the refrigerant has leaked out, I can probably buy the $20 spring connector tools and detach and replace the line and o-rings. I'm a visual person and really like pictures/videos to learn, so when someone explains something, it doesn't always make sense. After hands on doing 60ks and rod bearings, the process is so much easier to understand. A/C is the black hole of "I know nothing" for me. As long as I own a Ford, I need to learn to do A/C work.

Have you replace the orings? You connect the vacuum pump to the low side connection (at the firewall).

 

[kevinspann]

Just buy a cheap Harbor Freight vacuum pump and charge it yourself. For the vast majority of people if you just change all the o-rings and replace any known damaged components, you can just pump it down for an hour and charge it back up yourself.

Bingo. I did this on my Explorer about 3 years ago (after going most of the summer without A/C), I had the system open during a motor swap. Vac'd it down , and checked the gauges to make sure it held, vac'd it some more, checked again. Then charged it using the gauge set. Still cold today....

 

[kevinspann]

Jeremy, get the gauge set and a can tap.

http://www.harborfreight.com/a-c-manifold-gauge-set-92649.html

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_R-134a-Can-Tap-Dispenser-Interdynamics_9016279-P_N3570_T%7CGRP2001_____



No, the gauge set won't last forever - but it will do the job you want.

[youtube]F5w3lR88fqQ[/youtube]

[youtube]iNsyiFRfueM[/youtube]

 

[rbruso]

The magic x-ray glasses kit from Autozone were useless for me. They did find every spot that I accidentally touched while reassembling the lines (shouldn't have lubed the o-rings with dyed oil, but it was all I had), but not my leak.

For mine, turns out the 134a adapter on the low side was leaking down the threads. A cheap ($9, really) halogen leak detector from ebay found that and no other leaks.

One week after vacuum and charging I still have A/C. Finally.

I am using an inexpensive ($50) gauge set.
I've never tried the venturi pumps, but it should have a standard (acme?) threaded fitting that a charge hose from a cheap kit can attach to.

Autozone has a decent electric vacuum pump available in their tool rental program. About $150 when you pick it up and you get it all back when you drop it off. Was able to pull 28" of vacuum and hold it for an hour. After that, it was just a matter of charging with the specified fill (well, 80% of the R-12 weight, as I was using 134a).

If you can get it diagnosed cheaply locally, go ahead and do that. With any luck it's just o-rings and not the compressor front seal. If so, replace all the rings, vacuum, then charge.

If you go with gauges, this site http://www.aa1car.com/library/ac98.htm has a nice chart for using them to diagnose major failure areas, though it sounds like you just need to find a leak as you were able to get cold air.

A/C systems are actually very simple compared to the rest of the car, though it is an area a lot of people prefer to leave to the professionals.