NoSlo
SHO Owner
After looking at tons of catalogs and listings, I've found new brushes for ATX GenII SHO alternators! They are $6.50 each (P/N 38-8307 - two needed), or $3.xx for the version without the terminal or spring (P/N 38-8305). Available from Romaine Electric - 800-426-5005. I was getting tired of third-world rebuilt alternators dying after two years when the original lasted 12, so decided I needed to take action!
75% of alternator death is likely brush failure, as you can see in the pic below, the never-rebuilt F3DU-10300-CB Mitsubishi-made alternator ran fine until the brushes wore down to the limit.
Original Mitsubishi brush worn to wear limit line, two styles of replacement brushes:
Voltage regulator assembly includes brushes, costs nearly as much as a rebuilt alternator:
I stopped searching after finding these aftermarket, but it's possible that you might find Mitsubishi-made brushes if someone wants to go bother other car dealers, since the same brushes seem to be used in several models of Mitsubishi-made alternators:
Original Mitsubishi part number:A647X50170
Ford Part number: F1CZ-10347-A
Carquest: 20-1625
Possible matches, alternators that use same brush:
-with solder terminal
Eagle Summit 1.5L 1995-1996
Eagle Summit 1.8L 1995-1996
Mitsubishi Expo 2.4L 1994
Mazda 3 2.0L, 2.3L 2004-2008
Mazda 5 2.3L 2004-2006
-without solder terminal
Mitsubishi 3000GT 1991-1995
Dodge Stealth 1991-1995
Mazda 323, 626, 929 1990-1991
B2200 1987-1993
Note, brushes might not be the cause of your dead alternator, I have one in my collection that has a stator coil winding short to the case, use the Ford CD or shop manual diagnostic procedures to check all the parts.
1a - 10B304 - Nut
2 - Washer
3 - 10344 - Pulley
4 - 10A335 - Bearing front screw x4
5B - through-bolt x4
6 - 10333 - Generator front housing
7 - 10A303 - Generator front bearing
8 - 10A355 - Front bearing retainer
9 - 10335 - Rotor
10 - 10383 - Stator terminal
11 - 10334 - Rear housing and bearing
12 - 10304 - Rectifier
13 - 10347 - Brush and terminal x2
14 - 10316 - Regulator
15 - 10336 - Stator and coil
Partial disassembly to replace brushes:
-Remove Four through-bolts
-Heat center of alternator back with 200w soldering iron (or on stove) to release pressed bearing
-Split alternator with screwdrivers about 1/4 inch
-If stator is stuck to front of alternator, pry it loose from front through split
-Finish splitting halves and remove front assembly with rotor
-Remove the two philips regulator screws (use impact driver if stuck, do not strip)
-De-solder the two tabs between the regulator and rectifier. You may need to straighten the crimped "forks".
-Remove regulator
-remove back-plate and brush cover clip from regulator
-de-solder brush terminals
When reassembling, push brushes in and stick a wire in hole in back of alternator to retain brushes. Reheat alternator back while assembling.
75% of alternator death is likely brush failure, as you can see in the pic below, the never-rebuilt F3DU-10300-CB Mitsubishi-made alternator ran fine until the brushes wore down to the limit.
Original Mitsubishi brush worn to wear limit line, two styles of replacement brushes:
Voltage regulator assembly includes brushes, costs nearly as much as a rebuilt alternator:
I stopped searching after finding these aftermarket, but it's possible that you might find Mitsubishi-made brushes if someone wants to go bother other car dealers, since the same brushes seem to be used in several models of Mitsubishi-made alternators:
Original Mitsubishi part number:A647X50170
Ford Part number: F1CZ-10347-A
Carquest: 20-1625
Possible matches, alternators that use same brush:
-with solder terminal
Eagle Summit 1.5L 1995-1996
Eagle Summit 1.8L 1995-1996
Mitsubishi Expo 2.4L 1994
Mazda 3 2.0L, 2.3L 2004-2008
Mazda 5 2.3L 2004-2006
-without solder terminal
Mitsubishi 3000GT 1991-1995
Dodge Stealth 1991-1995
Mazda 323, 626, 929 1990-1991
B2200 1987-1993
Note, brushes might not be the cause of your dead alternator, I have one in my collection that has a stator coil winding short to the case, use the Ford CD or shop manual diagnostic procedures to check all the parts.
1a - 10B304 - Nut
2 - Washer
3 - 10344 - Pulley
4 - 10A335 - Bearing front screw x4
5B - through-bolt x4
6 - 10333 - Generator front housing
7 - 10A303 - Generator front bearing
8 - 10A355 - Front bearing retainer
9 - 10335 - Rotor
10 - 10383 - Stator terminal
11 - 10334 - Rear housing and bearing
12 - 10304 - Rectifier
13 - 10347 - Brush and terminal x2
14 - 10316 - Regulator
15 - 10336 - Stator and coil
Partial disassembly to replace brushes:
-Remove Four through-bolts
-Heat center of alternator back with 200w soldering iron (or on stove) to release pressed bearing
-Split alternator with screwdrivers about 1/4 inch
-If stator is stuck to front of alternator, pry it loose from front through split
-Finish splitting halves and remove front assembly with rotor
-Remove the two philips regulator screws (use impact driver if stuck, do not strip)
-De-solder the two tabs between the regulator and rectifier. You may need to straighten the crimped "forks".
-Remove regulator
-remove back-plate and brush cover clip from regulator
-de-solder brush terminals
When reassembling, push brushes in and stick a wire in hole in back of alternator to retain brushes. Reheat alternator back while assembling.
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