oil leaking on the subframe by the passanger side lower control arm mount

[itwonder]

Is timken A good choice for seals? or should I go to a ford dealer to get the seals?

The Ford seals are made in Japan and are the very best if you can find them. The National seals are reported to be okay. The Felpro cam seals are frequently problematic in the rear location for some reason. You must use a thin bead of RTV around the outer perimeter of the cam seal.

Don't go pulling the crankshaft pulley unless you plan to do a full front 60k - timing belt, water pump, crank sensor, and front main seal.

It is doubtful the front main seal is causing oil to apear in the area you describe.

 

[Bryan]

Well I was thinking about doing a full front and top 60k on the car since I have no idea since (or if) it was even done. Now I just saw a 89 SHO in my local junk yard and I was thinking I'd pull the motor out if it and rebuild it and just swap it into my car since its probably easier to do it that way instead of the hassle of messing with mine. It would only cost me $120 for the motor.

Thanks for the tip on the seals I saw SHOsource sells the seals probably a better place to get them from

 

[Devin]

Okay If it is a cam seal thats bad(most likely) is it a hard job to replace them?

Well I was thinking about doing a full front and top 60k on the car since I have no idea since (or if) it was even done. Now I just saw a 89 SHO in my local junk yard and I was thinking I'd pull the motor out if it and rebuild it and just swap it into my car since its probably easier to do it that way instead of the hassle of messing with mine. It would only cost me $120 for the motor.

Thanks for the tip on the seals I saw SHOsource sells the seals probably a better place to get them from

Talk about mission-creep!

 

[Bryan]

Talk about mission-creep!

It's my goal to fully restore this car so yes it's a mission indeed

 

[jayro]

If you want to rebuild it, then go ahead, though it could be overkill. Most of these engines will last for a very long time if you do the maintinance on them. If you decide you are going to rebuild and swap in a motor, find a 3.2 (ATX) and swap it in. It is an EXTREMELY easy swap to do and you get a bigger displacment engine. A search will give you lot's of info on it and if you still have questions post or PM me.

 

[Bryan]

If you want to rebuild it, then go ahead, though it could be overkill. Most of these engines will last for a very long time if you do the maintinance on them. If you decide you are going to rebuild and swap in a motor, find a 3.2 (ATX) and swap it in. It is an EXTREMELY easy swap to do and you get a bigger displacment engine. A search will give you lot's of info on it and if you still have questions post or PM me.

Well I was gonna ask about the 3.2 swap will it bolt to the 3.0 sub frame? Yes my goal is to restore the car so it will be a ongoing project as the shopping list for stuff is rather long

 

[jayro]

Well I was gonna ask about the 3.2 swap will it bolt to the 3.0 sub frame? Yes my goal is to restore the car so it will be a ongoing project as the shopping list for stuff is rather long

Yes it will. The only real differance between the 3.0 and the 3.2 is the bore. So the 3.2 block is basically a punched out 3.0. Same crank, just different rods and pistons. 3.0 heads and trans bolt right on. You use the block and rotating assembly from the 3.2 and bolt all the 3.0 stuff onto it.

 

[jelloslug]

Well I was gonna ask about the 3.2 swap will it bolt to the 3.0 sub frame? Yes my goal is to restore the car so it will be a ongoing project as the shopping list for stuff is rather long

The arguably "best" way to do the 3.2 swap is to use the 3.2 short block (engine block, oil pump, crank, pistons, and rods) and then use the heads and other parts from the 3.0. With this type of 3.2 swap you won't have any issues with it fitting back in the car. This is what I did with mine.

 

[Bryan]

Okay sounds like a plan now back to the junkyard...