oil leaking on the subframe by the passanger side lower control arm mount

[Bryan]

Hey trying to find the oil leaks I have on my 91 sho I noticed oil on the subframe by the passanger side lower control arm and running down the rear motor mount. Now I know the valve cover gaskets are bad but could oil leak down from them and get on the subframe? the transmission side is dry only the "front" of the motor seems to be soaked in oil.

 

[yamahaSHO]

Sounds like a cam seal. You have two of them on the back side of the engine bay. You can take off the cam sensor and see if there is oil behind it.

 

[Blackdr16]

bet you anything its your cam seal like yamaha is saying..mine leaked there too.

 

[Bryan]

Okay If it is a cam seal thats bad(most likely) is it a hard job to replace them? I am what you would call a backyard mechanic I have worked on engines somewhat starters,fuel pumps alternators brakes etc.. I even wired up the digital cluster. What I am asking you guys is think I should take the car to a shop and have them do it or try the repair job myself? I also have to do the valve covers, air intake gaskets and plugs and wires to do also.

 

[rubydist]

and the answer to your original question is: yes, the valve cover leak can also get into that general area of the subframe.

do not take it to a mechanic unless he/she is familiar w/ the SHO, cause there are lots of unique ways to screw up a SHO. you can do the cam seals yourself, with average mechanical skills, some patience, and likely some guidance from this forum.

 

[Devin]

They are very easy to replace, in regards to technical skill required. Just the fact that you know the front of the engine is on the passenger side would indicate to me that you could change them yourself. Though as Rubydist says, you will need patience. Mainly because the little tiny bolts take forever to get out because of their locations, and then back in again.

Oh, and this is a Ford. I think having oil on the front of the engine is a prerequisite.

 

[Bryan]

Okay sounds good I'm kinda tired of putting a quart of oil in every two weeks. It's kinda sad to see the leak stop though as when I take it to get oil changes I just tell the guy I need a filter change and then he gives me a funny look after I say that.

 

[Bryan]

Another question are the valve covers or cam seals torqued down or are they just hand tightened? And should I change anything else while I got the covers off? Besides the wires and plugs as I planning changing them

 

[SHOspazz92]

Your going to need to take more then the valve covers off to replace the cam seals...

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/lower60k/lower60k2.htm

Reference steps 18-22, then take note of everything you have to remove to get there.

-Sam

 

[JRA2000TL]

Just remedied this in my 89. Far rear cam seal (the most difficult one) was leaking a nice puddle of oil in that exact area you're describing. Use a National or Ford OEM seal; do not use Felpro, or it will continue to leak.

 

[rubydist]

Okay sounds good I'm kinda tired of putting a quart of oil in every two weeks. It's kinda sad to see the leak stop though as when I take it to get oil changes I just tell the guy I need a filter change and then he gives me a funny look after I say that.

unfortunately, even with this significant leak, you still need to change all of the oil. the leak is not smart, so it doesn't let just the old oil leak out, so there is still old oil in there that has the additives worn out and needs replaced.

 

[AREA 91]

Get it fixed asap. You don't want your sho going up in flames!
It's not that hard to replace the cam seals and valve cover gaskets, you just need to take your time.
Do it right the first time.
I highly recomend using the ford cam seals.

 

[-DVP-]

Might as well do the front main

 

[itwonder]

It's probably the rear cam seal. You don't have to take the valve cover off to replace it. Take the end tank off of the intake, and a few other bits, then access is as good as it gets. It's under the cam position sensor. When you take the sensor off, you'll see oil in the cavity if a cam seal is leaking.

 

[Bryan]

ok after reading the 60k work I am a bit worried. first off I don't have access to torches and that starter "bump" method I am unsure about doing. other then that it seem like I could do it

 

[Bryan]

Is timken A good choice for seals? or should I go to a ford dealer to get the seals?

 

[rbruso]

ok after reading the 60k work I am a bit worried. first off I don't have access to torches and that starter "bump" method I am unsure about doing. other then that it seem like I could do it

If all you are replacing is the rearmost cam seal you don't need to pull the lower pulley. I can attest to the fact that the starter bump method works, and works well after using it for years on a few different SHOs. If you're uneasy about doing it, you can just put the car in 3rd or 4th and have someone stand on the brakes.

I have a couple of pictures of the cam seal removal/replacement here: http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=115567

As you can see, I didn't even pull the upper timing cover. I did pull my intake and the rear cam cover so I could pull the cam cap over the seal.

I've also never needed torches, but I'm in AZ and rust is an imported commodity.

 

[jayro]

ok after reading the 60k work I am a bit worried. first off I don't have access to torches and that starter "bump" method I am unsure about doing. other then that it seem like I could do it

First, you don't need to do all the front 60K stuff to do the cam seal. Like stated earlier, remove the intake crossover tube. Get some other stuff out of the way, and access the cam sensor/seal area. The patience comes in with installing it because of the tight quarters.

If you need to do a front 60K, it isnt difficult. It just takes more steps to accomplish.....but the steps are easy. As far as the torch, a simple propane torch will work. They are cheap and available at any hardware store. They just take more time than the other torches cause the flame isn't as hot. The starter bump method is simple and works great. If the socket keeps poping off the crank bolt have a helper hold it on with a stick or something and use a 6 point socket, NOT a 12 pt.

 

[Bryan]

Okay I just found out I have access to some impact air tools can I use these to remove the crankshaft bolt?

 

[jelloslug]

Okay I just found out I have access to some impact air tools can I use these to remove the crankshaft bolt?

The starter bump method is the best way to do it. I have done it on my SHO many times as well as on several other cars. Like what was posted before, just use a 6 point socket and you will be just fine.