Sertainment
New Member
I have a gen II SHO and it has the rust that comes along with it near the gas cap, what is the best way to go about fixing this area?
Rust near gas cap, Gen II
- Thread starter Sertainment
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
93rev2sev
SHO Member
Replace the vehicle. I know you think I'm being a smart ass, but the truth is...nothing will stop your rust. Quarter panels are not made in the aftermarket so you're left with either Bondo, or an english wheel and thousands of dollars.
SHORANGERBIRD
Restorer of SHO
Racer X
SHO Pilot, Retired
I'm replacing the SHO I've had for over 7 years because I know that I'll never get ahead of it's rust issues.
Once it starts, there's no stopping it.
Once it starts, there's no stopping it.
RonPorter
SHO Club of America
I had rust repair done on my '89 in '96 and it held for a coupla years.
BUT....I did not have it around that gas cap area.
That is THE nastiest spot to get rust. A bunch of body panels meet there, and if the rust is starting under the cap on the quarter panel, there is no repair that will work, short of doing what George Fourchy did and have a whole new rear clip welded on behind the C pillar.
BUT....I did not have it around that gas cap area.
That is THE nastiest spot to get rust. A bunch of body panels meet there, and if the rust is starting under the cap on the quarter panel, there is no repair that will work, short of doing what George Fourchy did and have a whole new rear clip welded on behind the C pillar.
sperold
Last to Know
Really depends on how bad it is.
If that is your only rust, I would repair it.
No matter who does the rustproofing on a car, they never get to those hard to reach places.
If you fix it and seal up the inside very carefully, it will last for years. Most places fail to do the underside sealing, so the rot never really slows down. If you are willing to put in lots of hours removing the trunk liners and the plastic spill container around the cap (behind the gas door) and perfectly sealing your inner wheel well, you can get ahead of it.
If that is your only rust, I would repair it.
No matter who does the rustproofing on a car, they never get to those hard to reach places.
If you fix it and seal up the inside very carefully, it will last for years. Most places fail to do the underside sealing, so the rot never really slows down. If you are willing to put in lots of hours removing the trunk liners and the plastic spill container around the cap (behind the gas door) and perfectly sealing your inner wheel well, you can get ahead of it.
In the middle of replacing my 93 because there is rust on the gas door quaterpanel. Bought a replacement car for 300$ thats completely rust free, has really nice interior in it, and only 119k on the odometer. :woo-hoo:
Trust me there are plenty out there.
Trust me there are plenty out there.
There are ways to stop rust. Makes me laugh so hard when people say junk it or replace the car because it has a little bit of rust on it. Big deal! People with that type of thinking shouldnt own a car. Go buy a new car, HELLO, it has rust on it, so you better junk it.Real metal starts rusting from the minute its produced. Products the manufacturers use stop the rust, but it's still there if you want to get technical, it's just covered to prevent more of it rusting.
I've done collision work and body work forever and no matter how pristine a car is, it has rust on it somewhere. As for stopping it WITHOUT replacement, the best product out there is POR 15. It literally stops rust and converts it into a protective sealant of metal. My friend has a 89 toyota camry and when he bought it, the bottoms of every door, internally and externally were rusted. We treated with POR 15 over the rust without removing the rust and now 11 years later, there is still no rust coming through and this car is his winter beater and hardly ever washed. Rust does not mean the end of a car, it only means a little bit of work to stop it and make it right.
I've done collision work and body work forever and no matter how pristine a car is, it has rust on it somewhere. As for stopping it WITHOUT replacement, the best product out there is POR 15. It literally stops rust and converts it into a protective sealant of metal. My friend has a 89 toyota camry and when he bought it, the bottoms of every door, internally and externally were rusted. We treated with POR 15 over the rust without removing the rust and now 11 years later, there is still no rust coming through and this car is his winter beater and hardly ever washed. Rust does not mean the end of a car, it only means a little bit of work to stop it and make it right.
I'm junking my car for many more reasons than just rust, but its a big factor. In every project there has to be a balanced thought process as to how much work there it, cost, and skill level.
I do a lot of structural metal fabrication and after every project I use POR15, it is definitely an awesome product that will stop rust if you can apply it to the metal properly. The downside to POR15 is it does not tolerate UV radiation. POR 15 is based on acetone type chemical and actually applies a rubber coating to the metal. Its a lot like PVC cement, just a different solute (PVC vs Rubber).
The problem with the quarter panel on the taurus is that is is nearly impossible to apply POR15 to the inside of the panel properly. POR15 likes to have a thin layer. Application in any cracks or crevices causes it to foam thus defeating the purpose of the protection.
I do a lot of structural metal fabrication and after every project I use POR15, it is definitely an awesome product that will stop rust if you can apply it to the metal properly. The downside to POR15 is it does not tolerate UV radiation. POR 15 is based on acetone type chemical and actually applies a rubber coating to the metal. Its a lot like PVC cement, just a different solute (PVC vs Rubber).
The problem with the quarter panel on the taurus is that is is nearly impossible to apply POR15 to the inside of the panel properly. POR15 likes to have a thin layer. Application in any cracks or crevices causes it to foam thus defeating the purpose of the protection.
Art5
Active Member
I'm having that BAD problem too now, and the worst thing is that this is pretty much the only rust problem I'm having, that spreads out pretty fast. I will be cutting it up and will be trying to fix it as hard as I can, before it will get to the point, where, like my red car, I would need to strip it. I think that anyone who knows how to use any welder, can fix this problem a lot easier, than just swapping shells.
Is POR-15 expensive?
Is POR-15 expensive?
luigisho
SHO Member
Depends on your definition.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/...=ProductName&gclid=CJH6gbbn66oCFRRggwod6TFpOw
POR 15 is about $40 a quart or so. It is well worth it though. They now have it in a spray also that you can use to get inside of doors etc through their seep holes. You could also drill a hole to your quarter panels and spray in there to get the inners treated.
I know POR 15 is not UV resistant, but it can be easily painted and it reacts fine to pretty much any automotive paint. Also, with a light scuff to its surface, you can body filler over it also.
I know POR 15 is not UV resistant, but it can be easily painted and it reacts fine to pretty much any automotive paint. Also, with a light scuff to its surface, you can body filler over it also.
Art5
Active Member
my quater panel allready has a hole in it, so After treating all that rust, i would need to cover it and so on. I will be doing some wider wheel arches in the back, so I will be modifying the **** out of those quaters.
platoribs
Live to Drive
Tom, Please remove all the rust from Bluie and mail the balance back to me...
... I got a drive train and four wheels!!
