how does one tighten the rear strut nut

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greengiant

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as the title states, I did both rear struts last summer and one has been rattling alittle and I think the main nut isn't tight enough and I couldnt for the life of me figure out how to get it really tight without spinning the strut rod, maybe I'm stupid I don't know, but I couldn't figure it out. One side is fine. If there is a trick to it I'd love to know it, thanks.
 

hawkeye18

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There is an 8mm bolt? Nut? Anyway, an 8mm something at the top of the strut that you can put a wrench on while tightening the nut. Honestly, it doesn't need to be real tight. I'd say 20-30lb/ft should be fine. Did you properly place the washer plates on the strut mount? I forgot to do so once and had a **** of a clunk/rattle until I figured it out.
 

greengiant

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It does have the 8mm but I remember I couldn't get it far enough up to get a wrench on it, I'm not sure about all the details, the whole process was a nightmare (broken pinch bolt) and over a year ago. The strut "shield" plastic thing has a metal top and all I hear going down the road is that thing jiggleling and that corner rattling.
 

Racer X

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You'll need a deep offset wrench to get at that nut and a 2nd wrench to hold the top of the strut.
 

greengiant

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I'm taking it apart in the morning I'll make sure to take pics of the operation. I have a set of those wrenches too
 

SHOYAY

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If your takin it off, take it to a local repair shop and have the technician there, blast them twice with a quick shot from their impact gun. They will definitely be on tight then. If they're a cool dependable shop, they won't charge you anything for their 10 seconds of time to do it.
 

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When I did my suspension about 2 months ago I hit the top nut with an impact gun while it was on the car and the suspension was loaded. After that I used a strut socket for good measure. If you were closer I'd say you could stop by and we could get it tightened right up.
 

kevinspann

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Check your sway bar endlinks too - I thought I didn't have my strut mounts tight too, but it was the endlink.
 

frosho

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I think an impact wrench is the preferred method. You're not far from Kirk's shop... (hint hint :))
 

greengiant

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I have an impact and thats what I used to put it on and it just spun the strut rod, and it didnt look like it did the job on that side but the other looked and is fine
 

shobote

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What you are hearing is a worn strut mount. The rubber opening in the mount stretches out so much that the piston rod from the strut hits the metal on the car. You should Always replace strut mounts when putting in new struts, as they are a wear part.
 

frosho

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I have an impact and thats what I used to put it on and it just spun the strut rod, and it didnt look like it did the job on that side but the other looked and is fine

Oh. What exactly do you mean by "it didn't look like it did the job"? Was the nut visibly loose?
 

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Check your sway bar endlinks too - I thought I didn't have my strut mounts tight too, but it was the endlink.

How much should you tighten them? I torqued mine to spec, which I think was listed at like 20 or 30 lbs. I still hear a clunk from my rear suspension too and I replaced everything in the suspension except for the swaybar bushings.
 

greengiant

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What you are hearing is a worn strut mount. The rubber opening in the mount stretches out so much that the piston rod from the strut hits the metal on the car. You should Always replace strut mounts when putting in new struts, as they are a wear part.

my mounts were replaced when I did the struts.....

still confused on how to do this, its way to tight in there to do anything

strutB005.jpg


strutB004.jpg


strutB003.jpg
 

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If an impact gun is not working for you you'll have to use a strut socket. The top of the socket is open and where the ratchet attaches is offset. That's what I ended up using. It looks like this:
KGrHqQOKiE1blNnl8BNnIoBGjpg0 12
The open top of the socket lets you use another ratchet and socket to hold the piston rod stationary while you tighten the nut.
 

kevinspann

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I used an oxygen sensor socket to hold the large nut and used the impact on the center. Probably not what you should do.

Edit: You want to know another reason Tokicos are crap? They dont even have a hex to hold the strut shaft while trying to loosen the nut. I just cut them in half to get the Eibachs off. (Off topic, but it was a real pain in the ass to do my rear struts)



You can try and tighten the nut while its in the car with the suspension loaded.
 
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yamahaSHO

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I just recently did coilovers on my STi and it was an even tighter fit. I ended up welding a socket to a wrench and was able to get the job done.
 

greengiant

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I just did it, I used random rubber padding I stripped from my mitsu and went through a tear in the strut cover grabbed that SOB with some vice grips as high up the rod as I could and gave it **** and it worked, didn't leave a scratch either. I wouldn't recommend this but it worked really good. I'll post pics in awhile.
 

K-Dawg

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I used an oxygen sensor socket to hold the large nut and used the impact on the center. Probably not what you should do.

Edit: You want to know another reason Tokicos are crap? They dont even have a hex to hold the strut shaft while trying to loosen the nut. I just cut them in half to get the Eibachs off. (Off topic, but it was a real pain in the ass to do my rear struts)

Bingo.

Put on whatever sized 1/4" drive socket fits the strut shaft in the middle. Then put the O2 sensor socket on the big nut. Then stick a 1/4" extension with a ratchet down the middle of the O2 sensor socket and use a box-end wrench on the O2 socket.
 

tompumped

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I just replaced a blown strut last night. I actually found a torque spec for the nut on AZ's website. It was I think 40 something for the high end? I didn't torque mine though just used my impact.

I never had a strut completely blow out and leak oil. The car drove like crap.
 
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