More Rust Repair (huge pictures)

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shoon

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So my trunk lid turned out so well I thought I'd tackle some rust forming along the wheel wells. So I pulled the bumper off only to find a little more rust just along the back edge... and when I looked up I was met with more bubbling paint and rust.

A small job turned into a huge job. Here are some pictures of the carnage.
Badly rusted sections were cut out and had fiberglass panels made, surface rust spots were sanded and treated with rust converter and then coated with 2-3 coats of rubberized rocker guard.

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turbosho

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ouch, thats some dedication. In texas rust free cars are so abundant that yours would be disposed of :(
 

greengiant

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nicely done, what are your plans for the paint on the exposed part of the body
 
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shoon

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nicely done, what are your plans for the paint on the exposed part of the body

I went to Napa and they matched my paint.. REALLY close. here is a before and after of the trunk:

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Also, working to re-size the pictures, gotta re-upload.
 

firebat45

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Awesome work. I know in Texas/Florida it's easy to come by a rust free one, but it's harder all the time up here. When the rust free Tauruses run out this will be the only option.
 

shoon

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Does not appeal to me either.
Just needed to be done.. and I don't think I ever want to do it again!!

so much effort and time and it still looks crappy. I think I'm going to try and invest in a shell to get shipped up here.
 

vortex2450

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I really admire your dedication, I was I had to kahunas to tango with body rust, but I'm going to cop out and save for a body shop to do it and respray it for me..
 

93fordsho

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did you just use bondo glass? i have the same spot under my fuel door that im sick of looking at
 

shoon

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yep, used bondo glass to fill/rebuild most of it, followed by bondo body filler to fill in imperfections and shape it.
 

shoon

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**UPDATE**

Just finished school, and got a couple weeks to ****. Provided the weather stays nice, its going to be invested in the SHO.

So it turns out the rust converter I had used needs to be washed and scrubbed thoroughly before anything can be applied to it. The instructions on the bottle did not mention that at all.. it just said apply, let sit for 24 hours and it will be a paintable primed surface.I had to redo the rear fender below the gas cap as a result- the epoxy fiberglass peeled away from the metal and cracked. all the paint. I was pretty much able to pull the whole thing off by hand... what a time consuming pita mistake that was.
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I was impressed with the results, and got a little carried away. When I went to the paint supply store they provided me with commercial grade clear coat in a can not for sale to the general public.. all I gotta say is this stuff is AWESOME! Ended up repainting my spoiler (clear coat was chipping off) front bumper, and I started to do the front of my hood, but wasn't happy with the results. I could not get the paint to transition, so I ended up repainting the whole thing and it turned out pretty sweet. I just gotta wait ~1 month before I can wet sand and polish it, because apparently clear coat in a can does not fully cure until 30-45 days after its applied. I'll post results when the time comes.

Hood Attempt #1:
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Hood Attempt #2:
(orange peel will be smoothed out once clear cures in a month)
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Spoiler:
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Rubberizing Front End:
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