Here are the major steps with tips for each...
Support car behind subframe.
Jackstands on their lowest setting. Rear wheels choked.
Pray to the y-pipe stud gods
Best to do this twice. Once the night before and once while you're down there, just before cranking the breaker bar.
Remove y-pipe, starter, power steering cooler, shift linkage, rack to subframe bolt, etc..
Have a parts-store-savvy freind on hand to go get a replacement donut gasket, studs, drill bits(if your prayers didn't work), spring loaded exhaust clamp....whatever...
Disconnect everything else
Remove all 3 roll dampers. You'll be tempted not to...but do it, anyway...before the engine support goes on. Speedo, sensors, etc..
Support Engine
Support it in such a way that you can pull it towards the passenger side while lowering the drivers side
Remove subframe
Support the subframe: Snug a jack under the the oil pan with a 4' long 2x6 spanning the lowest points of the subframe. When the subframe bolts are out, slowly lower the jack and let the subframe down. When your friend gets back, send him back out, this time to the junk yard with an 18mm 6point impact and a breaker bar along with a wrench for the subframe nut(I've forgotten the size, but 18mm doesn't sound right...rear subframe bushings from a couple of gen3 should be cheap
Remove trans
Lower rear of engine and move it as close to the passenger side as possible. Save the top 2 bolts for last and support the trans with a strap wrench from the top using a pipe spanning the 2 engine supports.
Remove clutch
Remove flywheel
It's good to have a steel bar that you can use, spanned across the flywheel dowels and butting against a trans bolt, to stop the engine from moving.
Replace flywheel with spare that was resurfaced in anticipation of the work
Blue Loc-Tite (medium) should be used. One drop on each bolt. Make sure you have a resurfaced flywheel on hand. If you don't have copious amounts of brake cleaner, send your buddy out again. Use a large nylon brush to clean flywheel AND DON'T FORGET to clean pressure plate surface. DO NOT use paper towels or terry cloth rags. Once clean, blow dry with compressed air. Set clutch cover on dowels with no disk. Make sure the clutch cover seats properly on the flywheel. Use cigarette paper or receipt paper to make sure there are no gaps between the flywheel and the clutch cover ****** in several spots around FW.
Replace clutch
New bolts recommended. Blue Lo-tite should be used. Verify 7 or 8 times that you put the clutch disk in the right way. Do not over torque. Go around with a 1/4" rachet and 10mm to evenly tighten all bolts to the point where the clutch disk stops wiggling around. Use thicker paper...oil filter box, to help indicate when the clutch cover is about to bottom out on the flywheel. Get them all to the same point. Remove alignment tool and finish torqueing.
Replace trans
Inspect and replace whatever needs it regarding the clutch fork, TOB, quill, fork bushings, etc.. Use the strap wrench to hoist the trans up to the point where you can manipulate it onto the engine. Torque the trans. to the engine. MAKE SURE to replace trans mount at this point. Raise rear of engine and allow it to re-center. Replace drivers axle and intermediate shaft and hang drivers axle with wire from the engine support.
If your buddy's back, you can test the clutch now. Do this with the trans in fifth. Use a screwdriver in the hole on the trans shift shaft. Position it in the middle front to rear, turn it clockwise against spring pressure and pull it out all the way. That should be fifth. Replace clutch cable and have him operate clutch pedal while you use your bare hands to try and spin the axles; one in each hand. Switch off if you want to feel the clutch. Have him yell when the axles move. That's your inital point of engagement.
Replace subframe.
Put it back on the jack with the 2x6 and raise it up. Line up the engine mount studs and the steeing rack studs, but don't jack it snug to the body yet. Go around to all 4 corners, double check the top subframe bushing halves are centered under the mount points. Raise jack one pump at a time, ensureing subframe remains centered. Go around and start but don't torque all 4 subframe bolts. Remove jack and 2x6. Use two 3/4" diameter, 18" long steel rods to center subframe. Use that 2x6 to make sure they're parallel front and back and that the drivers side is square to the body. Torque the subframe bolts. Replace engine mounting hardware.
Reassemble suspension/steering/exhaust/starter/
Remove engine support
Reconnect everything else
