Matte Paint?

[St Louis SHO]

Sem makes a single stage urethane matte black....

 

[WSC-SHO]

I found this on another forum researching this topic a little more... anyone know a bit more about this?

To achieve the flat-black look AND be fuel-safe, you MUST use a catalyzed clear over the top of the color (usually black... ). "Clearcoat" doesn't NECESSARILY mean glossy. It IS possible to spray a clear with a matte finish. PPG and Doupont sell deglossing agents that you can add to any catalyzed clear OR enamel to keep the surface from achieving gloss. HOWEVER... these deglossing agents are not UV-safe and will 'chalk' after a few seasons use. That means that the surface will become dry and powdery, to the point where you can draw marring marks with your finger on it.

The easiest, cheapest, and fastest way to achieve the desired 'flat black' look is to use DBC-500 mixed 6:6:1 with proper speed reducer and DCX51 hardener. DBC500 is an intercoat clear. It's kind of like a 'clear-paint' instead of having all the super-duper stuff that 'regular' catalyzed clear has in it.. DBC500 is pretty much just the bare necessities (and costs about 1/5 what a high-quality clear does). The problem: PPG WILL NOT give you any specsheet showing that DCX51 works with DBC500. It DOES work, PPG knows it, and so do custom paint shops. DCX51 is the catalyst for the 'regular' clears. Typically, DBC500 just gets mixed with reducer, just like your basecoat colors; 1:1.

As the DBC doesn't have all of the flow agents and other goodies that 'high quality' clears have, it doesn't achieve a glossy surface very easy. For a bodyshop, that's bad, cause your sprayer has to work pretty hard to get that glossy look out of DBC500. For someone with a cheapo-gun, little experience and no money to do it over.. this is a selling point of DBC500. If you stand back and 'fog' the panel, it will come out super-flat. If you lay it on a bit thicker, it will be a bit more glossy, but not shiny.

Adding the DCX51 to the DBC500 causes the DBC500 to be fuel-safe and super-hard (like regular glossy clear) when it dries. It increases the drying time by about 1/2 hour, but still, your overall tack time is like 15mins, and your colorsand time is about 2 hours, depending on your film thickness.

Not knowing alot about mixing and spraying paint, this comes across like greek to me... to the books!

Calling all you paint gurus! :thankyou:

 

[jthod]

I vote matte.

 

[Eric VerValin]

I googled and found these..



Looks like you can see some clear coat on the hood there.. because mine dosent shine like that...

Am I missing something? I'm kind of a paint noob myself.

 

[Vnuk1]

Last one looks hot!

 

[WSC-SHO]

Thanks Eric those do look good, I've been reading up on mixing the clear product with the actual paint and it looks like it gives you all the protection of a true clear coat, without adding any shine to the paint. Can any professional back this up?

 

[inverse1216]

we did my buddies car in "chalkboard paint" you can buy it at walmart. came out great. has the flat look to it with just the right amount of shine to it.

 

[WSC-SHO]

Any paint pros on the board? I started looking into places to buy primer, anyone have any recommendations? I was told Sherwin Williams makes a pretty good auto primer. Also, anyone have a nicer HVLP gun? What brand is it?

 

[quikSHOilver]

U-pol?

Any paint pros on the board? I started looking into places to buy primer, anyone have any recommendations? I was told Sherwin Williams makes a pretty good auto primer. Also, anyone have a nicer HVLP gun? What brand is it?

You could try check this out, as I been using this european made U-POL primers, it is very good sandable primer unlike most america's primer(mixs with thinner) whereas U-POL use hardener activator. here is the picture and some info at www.u-pol.com/

S2025V: 2.1 VOC Compliant High Build Primer (4:1)
Features & Benefits
Can be applied direct to bare metal and to un-sanded e-coat.
Multifunction primer: can be used as primer filler or surfacer.
Excellent film build and surface leveling properties.
Easy-to-sand and gives perfect gloss holdout.
Can be used for spot repairs and large panels.
2.1 lb/gal VOC Compliant when used with S2037, S2038 & S2039 hardeners.

You could buy that from TCP GLOBAL OR TP TOOLS.

Check out my work and primer usage on this link.
www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=112202

Hope this helps, good luck!

 

[WSC-SHO]

You could try check this out, as I been using this european made U-POL primers, it is very good sandable primer unlike most america's primer(mixs with thinner) whereas U-POL use hardener activator. here is the picture and some info at www.u-pol.com/

S2025V: 2.1 VOC Compliant High Build Primer (4:1)
Features & Benefits
Can be applied direct to bare metal and to un-sanded e-coat.
Multifunction primer: can be used as primer filler or surfacer.
Excellent film build and surface leveling properties.
Easy-to-sand and gives perfect gloss holdout.
Can be used for spot repairs and large panels.
2.1 lb/gal VOC Compliant when used with S2037, S2038 & S2039 hardeners.

You could buy that from TCP GLOBAL OR TP TOOLS.

Check out my work and primer usage on this link.
www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=112202

Hope this helps, good luck!

Wow, that stuff looks great! I see you use Rage Extreme for the body filler, I've heard really good things about it. I was also told to use a product called Duraglass (sp?) anywhere I had bare metal, thoughts? :thankyou:

 

[quikSHOilver]

Wow, that stuff looks great! I see you use Rage Extreme for the body filler, I've heard really good things about it. I was also told to use a product called Duraglass (sp?) anywhere I had bare metal, thoughts? :thankyou:

Yea, duraglas is good as well, its more targeted to custom or severe fill use... like if you got large rust that need to be cut out and weld a patch then duraglas got kitty hair in it that bonds very strong and u could easily shape it then still u need to use lighter filler to finish it up.

 

[WSC-SHO]

Yea, duraglas is good as well, its more targeted to custom or severe fill use... like if you got large rust that need to be cut out and weld a patch then duraglas got kitty hair in it that bonds very strong and u could easily shape it then still u need to use lighter filler to finish it up.

Yeah I was advised to use Duraglass, Then some form of Bondo (Rage Extreme was recommended) and then a glaze on top if I was going for perfection, or just primer over the body filler. I'm still working on the nuts n' bolts before I really start into the bodywork, but It'll be nice to have this thread to come to.

Any other advice? I'm going to try and have it in primer by the end of Oct. :woo-hoo:

 

[quikSHOilver]

Yeah I was advised to use Duraglass, Then some form of Bondo (Rage Extreme was recommended) and then a glaze on top if I was going for perfection, or just primer over the body filler. I'm still working on the nuts n' bolts before I really start into the bodywork, but It'll be nice to have this thread to come to.

Any other advice? I'm going to try and have it in primer by the end of Oct. :woo-hoo:

Yes, for ultra fine details such as small scratches that 220-320 da makes you could also use metal glaze putty like evercoat glaze or keystone brand that will fill in smallest scratches made by sanding... other advice... be patient and do work right. Wish you luck!