:thankyou:hey, thanks for the replies. it is an automatic, so atx? and yes, I just had the whole car tuned up (plugs, wires, fliter, oil changed, the works). and yes although stopping is good, I was sort of looking for something cheap to give me just that little bit more ZOOM when stepping on the pedal..
The words "cheap" and "fast SHO" don't go together in a sentence.
As mentioned above, there's a pretty decent sized list of what needs to be done to make the car reliable. Fast doesn't matter if it's not safe, or reliable.
You've got a 94, so doing the larger 96 brake upgrade is easy, just caliper brackets, rotors, and pads from a 96-up SHO.
Cheap with a little more zoom.... tough really. The SHO motor isn't known for low end torque, which seems to be what you're looking for. Intake porting, larger throttle bodies, big bore secondaries, and most other things intake related are going to give you high RPM HP. They won't hurt the low end, but they're not going to help it much either. A larger MAF (mass airflow meter) may help, as well as removing the silencer from the stock airbox. Cold air intakes, if done properly, can help too.
Exhaust, on a stock SHO, isn't going to add much grunt. You have an ATX, so the y-pipe isn't really a restriction. The MTX cars had a horribly designed y-pipe, and benefit from aftermarket designs, that's why people were asking.
So, my best advice would be, without spending a ton of money, to make sure the maintenance is up to par, put on the 96 front brakes, and make it handle better with larger sway bars, replacing any worn items in the suspension, and maybe add subframe connectors and strut tower braces.
An easy, relatively cheap upgrade is to check your PCM's code. This is the computer that runs your car and tells it what to do. If the code is not D4U1, you can change it out for one very easily. The D4U1 computer has performance benefits the others didn't have. Shift points, shift firmness, and other fiddly magical computer stuff.
