oboytroyman
Troy
any ideas on the spout circuit failure one, how to fix?
codes 157, 212, 219, 528, and 542 now.
- Thread starter oboytroyman
- Start date
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shooff82
SHOOFF82
Did the spout plug come out? I think there's 2. One above the cps and one next to the speedo cable.
luigisho
SHO Member
New pcm? What have you been doing to it recently?
oboytroyman
Troy
can you tell me the point on the engine where theyre located? or a picture perhaps
oboytroyman
Troy
i replaced fuel filter and changed the 3 front spark plugs
ViPER1313
SHO Member
luigisho
SHO Member
You have a large contingent of SHo owners in your neck of the woods. I would check and see if someone with a compatible pcm would let you swap theirs in and see if that cures it. Most multi-code SPOUT problems I've seen are PCM failures. PCM=ECM= computer behind the glove box that sticks out through the firewall and mates to the wiring harness plug there.
ViPER1313
SHO Member
I had a SPOUT code forever when I first got my SHO. It turned out it was the DIS box on the crossover tube that was causing the code to be thrown. Even though the code was being thrown, the car drove just fine and was not down on power at all.
That DIS was a replacement of some sort (it was not branded as Motorcraft on the outside of the DIS) - I replaced it with a spare as an experiment one day, the code never re-appeared but the car drove exactly the same.....
If you are able to rev over 4500 rpm or so, I wouldn't pay too much attention to that code. When the SPOUT plug is actually pulled, the car will run like it has 80hp, you will get 10mpg and your cats will be glowing red hot after 10 miles of driving. If your car just has a minor hesitation up high, your car is advancing it's ignition.
That DIS was a replacement of some sort (it was not branded as Motorcraft on the outside of the DIS) - I replaced it with a spare as an experiment one day, the code never re-appeared but the car drove exactly the same.....
If you are able to rev over 4500 rpm or so, I wouldn't pay too much attention to that code. When the SPOUT plug is actually pulled, the car will run like it has 80hp, you will get 10mpg and your cats will be glowing red hot after 10 miles of driving. If your car just has a minor hesitation up high, your car is advancing it's ignition.
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oboytroyman
Troy
after examining my car more i find out that the dis towards the rear of the car(box with 2 plugs connected to it). is cracked in 2 places and sometimes the plug is basically half connected because the dis is being pushed upwards. ive read another post that said when this happens it means you have a bad motor mount or subframe bushing. if this thing is cracked and coming loose, will that cause extreme hesitation in acceleration and a noise like something is a about to fall or snap off your car?(this noise comes from what seems like right below where i sit in the drivers seat. also my cars tachometer sometimes just goes berserk without the engine actually revving. haha but im taking it to the shop wednesday FOR SURE so well see.
luigisho
SHO Member
If the DIS is damaged or poorly grounded there will be all manner of non fun events happening. This is the cause of pretty much all those codes. The mounts are likely shot. There is only so much slack in those 2 wires plugging into the module.
oboytroyman
Troy
The dis is cracked where the plug plugs in definitely a lot! and the plug is half connected, so this probably is the cause of most of my problems like you are saying. I found a duralast dis at autozone for like 140. should i go to a junkyard to get one. i'll need one by friday. ALSO is it going to severely damage anything, driving with this situation? my work is like 6 miles of city driving from my place. ive been driving it kind of alot and its been running real ******, but is okay mostly when im just cruising and not accelerating.
I also forgot to mention my car sounds like a dirt bike right now. will the dis effect this as well do you know?
I also forgot to mention my car sounds like a dirt bike right now. will the dis effect this as well do you know?
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shoon
cliTaurus
If its not running right you will get a lot of excess carbon; it will clog up your cats and probably isnt too good for the o2 sensors.
I'd say park it, just in case your DIS completely s*its the bed too.
I'd say park it, just in case your DIS completely s*its the bed too.
oboytroyman
Troy
i wonder if that clunking noise thats coming from under the drivers seat is one of the cats. it feels like something is about to break off of my car. My coworker said the motor mounts, if bad, are easy to fix. should i do this myself or take it to shop?
luigisho
SHO Member
Since the weather is still good, I would try this myself. There should be enough info archived here to walk you through it. You will need jack stands and at least one decent jack. I would get a used DIS if it was available to save money. If there is alot of engine movement it could loosen other stuff under the car. No way to tell until you get in there. Bracket out alot of time since you haven't done this before.
oboytroyman
Troy
oboytroyman
Troy
my dis is obviously cracked and not positioned right
ViPER1313
SHO Member
I think you might have a failed subframe bushing(s), especially since you say it feels like something is clunking right under your seat. Check the condition of the 4 bolts / washers / rubber bushings that connect your subframe to your body (the large metal cradle that the engine sits in), especially the 2 rear ones. If they have failed, the engine will move all over the place in the engine bay and can crack the DIS, etc. Lucky for you, the fix is free - there was a recall on the bolts. Call a dealership and make sure the work has been done to your car.
Edit: your car probably sounds like a dirt bike because when the subframe bushings or motor mount failed, it caused the gasket that sits in-between the Y-pipe and the mid-pipe to break into 1000 pieces. New gaskets are $5 or so and still available from any parts store. You will probably need new exhaust springs / bolts as well, they are a few $ each and you can find them in the "HELP" section of Advance Auto or Autozone.
If the subframe bushings have failed, don't drive the car until they are fixed. It makes driving the thing really dangerous and can bend / crack your subframe.
Edit: your car probably sounds like a dirt bike because when the subframe bushings or motor mount failed, it caused the gasket that sits in-between the Y-pipe and the mid-pipe to break into 1000 pieces. New gaskets are $5 or so and still available from any parts store. You will probably need new exhaust springs / bolts as well, they are a few $ each and you can find them in the "HELP" section of Advance Auto or Autozone.
If the subframe bushings have failed, don't drive the car until they are fixed. It makes driving the thing really dangerous and can bend / crack your subframe.
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oboytroyman
Troy
are you sure this fix is free? because i've called a couple ford dealers around my area (kalamazoo, michigan) and they have told me they cant access my cars history because its so old.
Just got off the phone with harold zeigler ford. (dad works there) and service manager looked up the vin. no recalls on anything. couldnt even tell me if the sub frame bushings were fixed or not.
ALSO i looked at my subframe bushings and the passenger side rear one is definitely broken. looks like the rubber piece is completely deteriorated and the left rear one doesnt look too good either..kinda caving in.
You think i have a broken motor mount also, or just the subframe problem?
Just got off the phone with harold zeigler ford. (dad works there) and service manager looked up the vin. no recalls on anything. couldnt even tell me if the sub frame bushings were fixed or not.
ALSO i looked at my subframe bushings and the passenger side rear one is definitely broken. looks like the rubber piece is completely deteriorated and the left rear one doesnt look too good either..kinda caving in.
You think i have a broken motor mount also, or just the subframe problem?
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luigisho
SHO Member
Could be both are broken but the subframe is the paramount concern. You will know if the recall was done if you pull up the carpet in the footwells. The recall has them cut a hole in the floor board to access the sf from the top and then insert a rubber plug where the hole was made.
ViPER1313
SHO Member
Well, you are now at the point where you need to stop driving the car until this issue is fixed. As mentioned before, lift up the carpet on the drivers and passenger side, as well as the rubber / foam noise insulator pad under the carpet. If there are holes already drilled into the floor, it means the recall had already been done at some point the dealer wont fix this. If it has not been done, search around the forum for the actual recall number and call the dealership again.
Either way, the parts are not that much money:
XF1Z-5A364-AA (Subframe bushing recall kit) - 1 kit will cost you $12 to $15 at a dealership (you might want to buy 2 and take care of the fronts as well). They come with 2 bolts, 2 large washers and 2 nuts that go over the tabs of the body/subframe that allow you to tighten the nut.
Aluminum subframe bushings are $75 to $90 for a set of 4, I really recommend them. You can also put Gen3 subframe bushings on the car, not 100% sure of the part number though.)
If you are super poor, you can buy some hockey pucks and drill holes in them for the time being instead of buying new subframe bushings. Just make sure to put the washer from the bolt recall kit below the bottom hockey puck.
Either way, the parts are not that much money:
XF1Z-5A364-AA (Subframe bushing recall kit) - 1 kit will cost you $12 to $15 at a dealership (you might want to buy 2 and take care of the fronts as well). They come with 2 bolts, 2 large washers and 2 nuts that go over the tabs of the body/subframe that allow you to tighten the nut.
Aluminum subframe bushings are $75 to $90 for a set of 4, I really recommend them. You can also put Gen3 subframe bushings on the car, not 100% sure of the part number though.)
If you are super poor, you can buy some hockey pucks and drill holes in them for the time being instead of buying new subframe bushings. Just make sure to put the washer from the bolt recall kit below the bottom hockey puck.
