So why is Megasquirt not compatible with SHOs?

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firebat45

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thats the thing tho you dont need to do coil on plug nor rewire your injectors to do it.. all i did was tap into probley 10 wires and it fired right up...

another one of the may advantages is you can use any injector no more having to be low or high imp injectors or whatever any injector will work fine.

as was mentioned you can use and ignition system as well, including MSD boxes wiring right in without needing anything special for them...


i know the theory of COP being better for a few things but the price tag of the coils hasent made me jump to the idea not to mention the fact i dont think you could upgrade the spark output



i looked around a little i noticed the Coil On Plug swap will still fire and everything the same as the factory setup since all your doing it removing the coil pack and replacing it with coil"s" think of it like taking the factory pack and cutting it up to each spark plug..
so in that reguard the tuning would be that of factory...
unless that is you wire it up some fancy way and want it to fire each and everyone by itself and not the wasted spark system that factory is

Megasquirt could be a plug and play affair, it would just be batch fire injectors and wasted spark like stock. What I meant was that to unlock the full capability, you'll need to rewire. This is for Toolman, I know you know this gmail.

Injector compatibility is a huge plus. We're planning on 95lbs.

Price of COPs? My set was $24 at the junkyard. Someone I know got all 6 for 99 cents each. Even brand new they're only around $140, the same as spark plug wires really. And yes, the diagram on here is to use the COPs the same way as the stock system, wasted spark. To get rid of that you'll need to do some fairly major rewiring, and individual spark isn't possible on the stock coils.
 

MerkXRTurbo

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What COPs are you using? That would be a big up for me. Wouldn't have to mess with burned plug wires from the turbos.
 

firebat45

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I'm using COPs from a 2000 Taurus. I believe that's the only year the Taurus had them, and not all of them did? Little tricky to find but not that hard. I hear the coils from a Ford Escape fit nicely with no modifications needed, that's what a few people here have done.

I modified mine, took off the rubber insulator/tip and replaced it with the rubber tipped hard plastic insulator from a set of SHO wires. I could have used the COPs with no modifying, but the round sealing surface on the COP not matching the rectangular sealing surface on the valve cover was picking at me.
 

illSHOyou

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I'm using COPs from a 2000 Taurus. I believe that's the only year the Taurus had them, and not all of them did? Little tricky to find but not that hard. I hear the coils from a Ford Escape fit nicely with no modifications needed, that's what a few people here have done.

I modified mine, took off the rubber insulator/tip and replaced it with the rubber tipped hard plastic insulator from a set of SHO wires. I could have used the COPs with no modifying, but the round sealing surface on the COP not matching the rectangular sealing surface on the valve cover was picking at me.

All the Duratec Ford Focus have extremely strong cop. They are a straight design and probably perfect for the SHO. Availability will be high and cheap!

Try Car-part.com and locate a set.
 

firebat45

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Holy huge injectors Batman! Can I ask, why in the world you need such large injectors? Planning on a 1000hp SHO?

We are planning on big HP, yes, but below 1000 by quite a bit. There's gains to be had (both in efficiency/mileage and power) by timing the injector pulses to spray into an open intake valve, and it's impossible to do that with a higher duty cycle, you need very large short bursts. It reduces the wall-wetting/X-tau effect substantially. I'd also rather have too much capacity in fuel supply than too little.
 
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MerkXRTurbo

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Hmm, sort of like direct injection. Very interesting idea, and a concept that I hadn't thought of or heard of. :)
 

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also another thing that works great for making power is the injector firing on a closed valve because the gas will evaporate to make it a better mix...

i hear both way are very good but the best idea is to get them all to fire the same way.

the factory sequential injection still is only firing probley close to 80% of the time on a open valve below 2500 - 3000 rpms anything above that its the same thing as batch...

i just gave those numbers for reference so i dont need anyone to try and tell me im wrong this or that..

reguardless what you do id like to see how things are going if you keep us updated that would be great
 

illSHOyou

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Did you know that spark plugs and cop is going to disappear soon on some cars?

Direct Injection and spark will be design in one single unit. Look for it in the near future...
 

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they also removed wiring harnesses off some and used radio signals etc they are always doing stuff thats pointless if you ask me.

you cant improve on the spark plug design much, what im refering to is the fact of the plug is already in the head in the ideal location putting it on the direct injection injector isnt gonna make it better...

**** for that matter direct injection isnt that great of an improvement to make it worth the hassel and price...

diesels use it but they have to use it.
a good number of cars are using it now but as i have read in a few places it might be equal to like 1% improvement over a good SFI system thats not direct injection

to me even if it was as high as 10% improvement still isnt worth the extra hassel... watch when it comes time to replace it with a bigger injector....
 

sho_sc

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Injector compatibility is a huge plus. We're planning on 95lbs.


We are aware that currently 80lb High-Z injectors are available, no?

and if you are truely needing anything greater than 60-lbers, you MUST ditch all parts of the stock fuel system.
 

firebat45

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We are aware that currently 80lb High-Z injectors are available, no?

and if you are truely needing anything greater than 60-lbers, you MUST ditch all parts of the stock fuel system.

High-Z injectors are a lot more expensive, and slower to react. It's not just flow rate. There will be no stock fuel components left on the car besides fuel rails (bored and run in parallel instead of series).
 

sho_sc

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High-Z injectors are a lot more expensive, and slower to react. It's not just flow rate. There will be no stock fuel components left on the car besides fuel rails (bored and run in parallel instead of series).

Cool!

FWIW, Flow Matched Siemens 80lbers injectors can be purchased for $50.
 

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i recommend getting a fuel pump off MS website also... you will know what im talking about once you look... for injectors that big a 250 pump wouldnt handle im assuming
 

sho_sc

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We are planning on big HP, yes, but below 1000 by quite a bit. There's gains to be had (both in efficiency/mileage and power) by timing the injector pulses to spray into an open intake valve, and it's impossible to do that with a higher duty cycle, you need very large short bursts. It reduces the wall-wetting/X-tau effect substantially. I'd also rather have too much capacity in fuel supply than too little.

Oh, I think I am getting my head around this now. You need BIG injectors so that you can "time" the pulses for after the valve opens with a large quick spray. Your duty cycle actually may only be 30% ....
 

firstgen89sho

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I was wondering the same thing, as your duty cycle will be so small, , the injectors will also have a harder time atomizing the fuel being that big.
 

firebat45

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Import tuners use 1000cc or even 1500cc injectors frequently, and they can get the engine idling. 1000cc is 95lb/hr, just the metric way of measuring. On a stock computer I'm sure it would be a problem (even with a Tweecer) but MS is designed for this type of use. I don't care if the idle is worse than factory, as long as it still idles reliably it's all good.
 

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i made a few changes to the tune now and had some time to get the car up and running... after doing a little maintence i come to find the spark plugs swimming in oil, coolant leak ill need to fix next time it was the heater line where the hard line end meets the rubber..

i was able to get it up and going again and cleaned the injectors up after testing them the ohms was about 20.3 - 20.5 i tried to match up a set close as i could...

i got to play around some more tho i didnt get the IAC settings down yet, im assuming the hertz settings will need to be changed some on there...

it was running alot better tho in terms or afr etc.. i spent most of the night playing around with the car to make it happy...

PM me i got the updated tune if you like... i feel more comfortable with this one...

or wait till next weekend and ill play around with it more to get the IAC setting up and running...

also gonna run the autotune next weekend based off narrowband o2 see how well it works on the program...

once its all under way and get the last few things like leaks taken care of ill get it driving around the parking lot to see how well it works...

when i parked it last night i could tell spark needed adjusted and so did fuel but i gotta say the rev limiter i set was pretty neat also, since the car only has exhaust to the end of the y pipe it sounded pretty neat when you hit the fuel kit rev limiter could hear the popping sound... well i got a kick out of it anyway...


also i think after next weekend im gonna start a new thread with some walkthrough stuff on how to get it up and running and some of the settings kinda as a guide to basic functions and such...
its all gonna be based on the microsquirt 2.89 software and not the more advanced stuff in the extras..
 

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