Transmission acting just plain weird

[joedogg]

Hi all, I started having a problem with my transmission on Friday on my '97 SHO and its continuing. When shifted into drive it'll go ahead and accelerate through 1st but then will not shift into 2nd. It'll act as if it's in neutral and hit the neutral rev limited at 4,000 RPM. Sometimes it'll shift into 2nd and after warming up the problem seems to change or go away.

Here's where the weird comes in. By putting the shifter into 2 I get all 4 gears. It seems that 2 works like drive for quite a time until finally the transmission gets wise that its in 2 and then shifts back into 2nd. At this point shifting back into D lets it behave properly.

The fluid level and color is good. I have no idea whats doing this, but since all the gears seem to work, the standard practice of "Just buy a used one because ya know, ATX" doesn't seem to yet apply.

Anyone ever have a similar problem? The common sense in me suspects that the shifter cable is loose or something similar, but the "ya know, ATX" in me suspects some vague sensor somewhere along the lines.

Thanks for the help guys!

 

[SHOZ123]

Valve body problems my guess.

 

[rubydist]

Valve body is a good guess.

Shifting to "2" tells the trans to start in second. If you have 1st gear with the shifter in 2nd, that says that SS2 is on when it shouldn't be, or the valve body is acting like SS2 is on when it shouldn't be.

The good news is that its possible to get the valve body off with the trans in the car, the bad news is that you are likely to learn a few new bad words in the process, since its really tight to accomplish the task.

 

[joedogg]

Valve body. eh? Alright, thanks for the tip. This is where I'll start, I'm glad to hear its something I can do in my garage. I'll check to see what Alldata says about it.

Thanks!

 

[joedogg]

Okay guys, I was reading up on this and I'm finding that I'm probably not properly prepared to diagnose this problem. Plus I'm just plain too afraid of ruining my car. If I do decide to go to a mechanic what should I tell them to sound as absolutely informed as possible about the car?

I'm aware I should find a specialty shop in transmissions, but I'm unsure what to look for in one of those either. I haven't used a mechanic since my old Lincoln 4 years ago had a problem with the timing chain and the guy tried to tell me my aluminum timing chain cover was rusted out. I know I just have to be prepared.

That being said, this could easily be something else besides the valve body couldn't it? Also, any experience in how much I could expect to pay if they need to replace the valve body? I find it hard to believe I need a full rebuild and also find it very hard to believe I could afford one. I really cannot go much over 1k on this and that's really stretching it.

Ideas?

Thanks so much for the help guys, this has been pretty confusing so far. Complicated machinery, it is.

 

[joedogg]

Hmm. Alright I was reading this. I think that I'm starting to see what's going on here. I was unaware that most of the parts that are likely to fail actually come off with the valve body. Let's just say I do get this off. Trans shop should be able to rebuild it, no? If they do, will they be able to tell me if it was acting up in a strange way. Sorry for all the questions. I'm just learning, and I know what an invaluable service these forums provide.

 

[rubydist]

Yes, the trans shop can rebuild the valve body (or have it rebuilt) if it needs. If that will solve the problem or not is still at risk, imho.

[I've had 2 of these trans (98 and 97) to the trans shop in the past couple of months from cars I've been fixing. They both needed a bunch of internal parts (chain, sun gears, fiber washers, etc.) even though both were from 'driving' cars.]

The good news is that if you r/r the trans yourself, and just have the shop do whatever is required on the trans, there is a pretty good chance that you will stay in your $1k budget - expect the bill to be at least $250 and as much as $1500 depending on how many hard parts need replaced. You will save some $500-800 in labor for the remove and replace of the trans.

 

[joedogg]

Yes, the trans shop can rebuild the valve body (or have it rebuilt) if it needs. If that will solve the problem or not is still at risk, imho.

[I've had 2 of these trans (98 and 97) to the trans shop in the past couple of months from cars I've been fixing. They both needed a bunch of internal parts (chain, sun gears, fiber washers, etc.) even though both were from 'driving' cars.]

The good news is that if you r/r the trans yourself, and just have the shop do whatever is required on the trans, there is a pretty good chance that you will stay in your $1k budget - expect the bill to be at least $250 and as much as $1500 depending on how many hard parts need replaced. You will save some $500-800 in labor for the remove and replace of the trans.

Now you're talking! That certainly is an option, I assume I can just put some jacks underneith and just lower the trans down onto some sort of wheeled platform? I looked at a pic of the entire trans and it looks nowhere near as big as the one on my Lincoln was (original AOD) that was over 200 lbs. :thankyou:

So basically what I'm getting from all this advice is (1) valve body is TOTALLY removable (2) might well not be the problem at all (3) I can just bring the shop a trans instead of the car and save $$$.

Okay, now to study how all this stuff works. Thanks guys!

 

[rubydist]

Well, its a little more complicated than that, but conceptually that's it - you need to support the engine from above, drop the subframe, then drop the trans.

imho, you need to buy one of the Ford service manual CDs that you see on ebay - less than $15 (typically) and it will guide you much better than any Haynes or Chiltons manual.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

The first things I would check are the shift cable where it attaches to the pawl on the tranny, and then the MLP sensor. Temperature-related bizarre behavior by the MLP is not unusual at all.

 

[joedogg]

The first things I would check are the shift cable where it attaches to the pawl on the tranny, and then the MLP sensor. Temperature-related bizarre behavior by the MLP is not unusual at all.

I'm trying to read up on that but cannot find all too much information. I've gotten that it stands for "Manual Lever Position Sensor" but I'm not sure what that means. "Where the shifter is set" sensor? Is this guy connected to the shift cable? If that is largely temperature sensitive, and is related to the shifter position I'd be highly suspect of it.

It seems the trans behaves better in the morning than it does during afternoon or evening conditions. Also it behaves better when warm than when cold, although it seemed to be making less and less of a difference. Not sure if that difference would increase, as I've secured a loaner vehicle and don't intend to drive the SHO until this is done. I'd prefer not to completely destroy the trans.

Thanks!

 

[joedogg]

imho, you need to buy one of the Ford service manual CDs that you see on ebay - less than $15 (typically) and it will guide you much better than any Haynes or Chiltons manual.

I'm covered. Alldata access. Been trying to make heads or tails of this. I figure that an incredibly in depth preparation is a great idea right now. Since my father was nice enough to loan me his old car "as long as I need it."

I've been looking through whatever diagrams I can find, man are these things complex. Its almost as if NASA spacecraft are easier for me to understand than one of these things.