Doing my seals, should I replace half-shafts?

[strykr14]

My seals are leaking on my 92. Since I will have everything out, should I replace my half-shafts? Car has 84K miles and is an MTX.

 

[hawkeye18]

Honestly... if you can comfortably afford it, sure. I'd keep them as spares in case one of them ***** the bed (unless you turn them in for cores, of course). If it's going to strain the budget then I'd say the ones you have are fine.

It certainly can't hurt.

 

[frosho]

Unless the boots are ripped or they're noisy, that would be a big waste of money.

 

[AREA 91]

Check your old shafts for excessive play in the joints, ripped boots, and crappy abs rings. Make sure there is no rust or burs on the shaft where it rides on the seal.
Use anerobic sealeant on the outsides of the seals.
Use a dab of atf on the inside of the seal before installing the shaft.

 

[strykr14]

They seem to be fine, boots are OK. This damn car needs alot of other shit as well. Just wasn't sure of the life span of these things - figured if I was in there....

But, If they'll last longer than 84K, I'll hold on to'm for now.

 

[hawkeye18]

It's really a crap shoot. The original ones seem to last anywhere from 60K-140K, and replacements seem to last anywhere from 40-80K. If there's no outward signs of failure, or things that *might* be fixed by new CV axles, and if you didn't remove them by yanking on them real hard (which usually breaks them), then I guess I wouldn't worry about it...

 

[strykr14]

Well, I was looking at the halfshafts from 92 ShoOFF -he is giving me a pretty good deal as I am buying alot of his front end crap. I have to remove everything to get rid of my rusty parts and install my 95 calipers and new struts/springs. I'll have to think about it.

Only 40-80K on a reman one - that's not much.

 

[hawkeye18]

Reman parts never, ever last as long as factory parts. That's just the way it is.

 

[K-Dawg]

Reman parts never, ever last as long as factory parts. That's just the way it is.

Proof?

Unless there is something wrong with them, leave em.

 

[hawkeye18]

Proof?

Alternators.

Starters.

Fuel pumps.

Motor mounts.

ALTERNATORS.

Ignition cylinders.

DISs.

Plug wires.

These are all things that have lasted 100K or more from the factory, and have had to be replaced at least once or more since the first time replacing them. Six times in the case of the alternator, and twice for the fuel pump. A/M parts manufacturers don't have to worry about a whole-vehicle warranty.

 

[K-Dawg]

Never ever? And who remanufactures spark plug wires? Just because its reman, doesn't mean its bad.

 

[CademiaX]

It's really a crap shoot. The original ones seem to last anywhere from 60K-140K, and replacements seem to last anywhere from 40-80K. If there's no outward signs of failure, or things that *might* be fixed by new CV axles, and if you didn't remove them by yanking on them real hard (which usually breaks them), then I guess I wouldn't worry about it...

Mine still looked fine at a 160k

 

[hawkeye18]

ok folks, we can spend all day pointing out examples of stuff on either end of the bell curve, but the point is that MOST of them fall in that range. I've seen factory CVs fail at 50K. ****, one dude's car's driver CV failed at 35K.

 

[jthod]

Here's a tip, put good axle seals in....

I put a NAPA brand one in the first of August, and it started leaking already. It never leaked before I put the clutch in and a replaced the axle, at 104k. it had one about two months after the clutch and axle, then 6 months later, I put the last one in. now it needs another. F my life....I hate doing them.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

I agree with Brian - check the halfshafts for broken ABS tone rings, ripped or dry-rotted CV joint boots, and/or excessive play. One sure way to tell if the halfshaft should be replaced, is to rapidly compress the CV joint. If you hear a metallic clack - the CV grease is largely gone and that halfshaft should be replaced.

Check your old shafts for excessive play in the joints, ripped boots, and crappy abs rings. Make sure there is no rust or burs on the shaft where it rides on the seal.
Use anerobic sealeant on the outsides of the seals.
Use a dab of atf on the inside of the seal before installing the shaft.

While I will agree that to some extent, it is a crap-shoot, the issue is "who" the remanufacturer was. Was it a third-party reman. or a Ford reman. OEM remanufactured parts cost more for a reason - because the quality control and tolerances are much tighter for OEM remans, and thus they are much more likely to last a longer period of time.

Also, separating a CV joint will not damage the joint - they're made of hardened steel. You can safely re-insert the center axle portion of the halfshaft back into the CV joint cup. The potential for problems come primarily if the CV joint boot is damaged or pulled-loose when the CV joint was separated and not replaired/replaced, or if the center axle portion of the CV joint is not completely re-inserted.

It's really a crap shoot. The original ones seem to last anywhere from 60K-140K, and replacements seem to last anywhere from 40-80K. If there's no outward signs of failure, or things that *might* be fixed by new CV axles, and if you didn't remove them by yanking on them real hard (which usually breaks them), then I guess I wouldn't worry about it...

You get what you pay for. Buy a cheap third-party aftermarket remanufactured part, you get cheap third-party aftermarket remanufactured quality parts. Buy the more expensive OEM remanufactured part, you get a much higher quality remanufactured parts.

Reman parts never, ever last as long as factory parts. That's just the way it is.

Here's a tip, put good axle seals in....

I put a NAPA brand one in the first of August, and it started leaking already. It never leaked before I put the clutch in and a replaced the axle, at 104k. it had one about two months after the clutch and axle, then 6 months later, I put the last one in. now it needs another. F my life....I hate doing them.

Again, you get what you pay for . . . .