yamahaSHO gets blown! 56k.... not likely

[yamahaSHO]

Since everyone else is doing it, I figured I'd post mine too

As some of you already know, I made the decision last November to supercharge my car. Since then I've been purchasing parts and installing them. I wanted to have the car going by March, but I was held up on parts... Even now I am held up on some parts that should be here tomorrow. I start putting the blower stuff together and find out yet another part a certain SHO vender has forgotten...

My plan is to finally start the car this weekend. Once I get the last fittings in for my AMSOIL kit, I can adapt it to my Accusump and start the car. Since I've upgraded to the blower, I've since upgraded many parts and have basically pieced the whole thing together myself with the exception of buying the piping and bracket from SHO Shop. I've yet again upgraded the brakes to SHO Parts NW 13" front brakes and SHO Nuts 11.6" rear brakes. To accommodate the large brakes, I've added 17" wheels an lowered the car.

I'll start and tune with 9lbs of boost and then upgrade to my Reichard Racing 12lbs pulley. I'll be using a Coolingmist 2-stage water injection kit for charge cooling and a TwEECer RT to tune (of course! ) To monitor the motor, I've added a few more gauges, swapped from electrical to mechanical, and have added a knock monitor.

I moved the idler pulley for maximum belt wrap. I honestly don't think you can get more than this.

The only thing I have not figured out is how I am going to make the bend from the BOV to vent it back into the intake just before the blower since I am running the MAF pre-blower. Here is what I am looking to do... Any suggestions are welcome.

I did run into a bit of a problem... Last year I installed stage 1 cams and since then, I've had an oil leak I could not fix... It was leaking near the cam sensor, so I replaced the seal and the valve cover seal. After that did not work, I finally (last week) pulled it apart, yet again, and examined the camshaft. I found that whoever SHO Shop had grind the cams, removed the camshaft plugs and did not replace them. Oil was entering the hollow camshaft from the timing chain side and flowed through the camshaft out of the motor. I went to a local machine shop and picked up three 20mm plugs and installed them with the cams in the car. It was a pain, but they are in and that *should* get rid of my oil leak.

 

[yamahaSHO]

A few more pictures...

Mr. Slicer no longer has slicers

 

[JTSHO]

very nice ...i only hope one day mine will look that sweet!

 

[SableSal]

Looks Beautiful!!!

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Looking very nice Jason!

I cannot remember if I asked you before.... but are you going to make the convention? Id at least like to SEE that amaizig car of yours. Absolutely stunning.

That BOV and intake issue you have is indeed an issue. That is a very knarly bend that the hose or tubing has to make. Is there any possibility of "simply" spinning the BOV around 180 degrees, to make the transition of the proposed hose or tubing more direct?

*looks at the beautiful welds and paint job on the intake tubing to BOV ******

 

[PROPHET]

Jason, the car looks great with those rims.

You've invested alot of time, money in this car, wishing you the best of luck.

 

[Lupo]

Wow! Nice setup.
A knock sensor was next on my list of many things I need to do.
As far as rerouting the BOV back into the intake, do you mean like this?:

 

[adidas_kn]

Why do you have to connect the hose back to the inlet side of the Blower? It won't help the blower spin up any faster as it can only spin as fast as the engine will turn it. It will mostly just blow it out the air filter. My Turbo coupe had a setup with the Bosh diverter valve and it did nothing extra for it but quiet down the blow off of the boost. I now have an atmospheric blow off valve and it just make a louder noise. Some people say that the diverter helps spoolup time. BS. If so maybe by 20rpm. And you said that you have the MAF pre blower, so it is in the fender? How does the returning air effect the MAF? I've never heard anything about it. On the MAF it usually has a direction arrow for airflow. Could this cause any tuning issues? Doubt it. NAyways let me know what you think.
Keep up the awesomework on that SHO. Mine will be amongst the ranks of the Boosted SHO's in the near future.
I would leave the BOV atmospheric for the sound between shifts. It is addicting in my 20+psi Coupe.

Later
"J"

 

[yamahaSHO]

Looking very nice Jason!

I cannot remember if I asked you before.... but are you going to make the convention?

TBD - It's looking good so far though.

Is there any possibility of "simply" spinning the BOV around 180 degrees, to make the transition of the proposed hose or tubing more direct?

I've thought about that. The bend in the blower tubing will not allow the BOV to be turned around.

Wow! Nice setup.
A knock sensor was next on my list of many things I need to do.
As far as rerouting the BOV back into the intake, do you mean like this?:

Yes, something like that... Although, I am still curious why you vent yours back since your MAF is after the blower? Did you have someone fabricate that for you? Do you have a picture from the other side?

Why do you have to connect the hose back to the inlet side of the Blower? It won't help the blower spin up any faster as it can only spin as fast as the engine will turn it. It will mostly just blow it out the air filter.

Later
"J"

The only thing I have not figured out is how I am going to make the bend from the BOV to vent it back into the intake just before the blower since I am running the MAF pre-blower.

Reading skills are invaluable

The air is metered before the blower, the air is only vacuumed through one way of MAF. Since you're metering before the blower, if you were to vent the BOV to the atmosphere, you're taking metered air and dumping it out of the intake tract and running the motor rich. For this, you vent the BOV back into the intake after the MAF, but before the blower. This will keep cycling the air until the TB is opened again.

 

[NJSHO]

Whats the benefit of mouting the MAF pre blower? Why dont you just mount the MAF where that black plastic coupler in the blower tubing is? Then you would not have to worry about venting the BOV.

 

[SHO Continental]

Whats the benefit of mouting the MAF pre blower? Why dont you just mount the MAF where that black plastic coupler in the blower tubing is? Then you would not have to worry about venting the BOV.

the MAF is meant to be used at atmospheric pressure, when used at a boosted pressure you get incorrect readings..

 

[twr]

the MAF is meant to be used at atmospheric pressure, when used at a boosted pressure you get incorrect readings..

Actually the MAF doesn't care if it is pressurized or not. The MAF measures the Mass of the air flow through it. If it's before the blower or after the blower, the amount of air going through it has the same Mass for any given rpm. The reason for a pre-blower MAF is that it gives a better response to throttle changes.

Looking good Jason!!

 

[ArkanSHO]

I hope I didn't miss the response to the question of "why pipe the BOV back into the intake", if so I appologize. The MAF will sense the total volume of air being measured by the MAF in the pre-blower location and compensate the fuel delivery to that volume but if the BOV is venting a portion of that air you end up with a overly-rich mixture as the vented air measured by the MAF does not make it to the combustion chamber for the volume of fuel being delivered in response to what the MAF indicated.
I ran my MAF in the begining post blower but determined on the datalogger it was absorbing so much heat that after the car was warm it no longer accurately measured the air flow. Remember the MAF uses a heated wire to raise the temperature of the air being passed through the sample tube portion of the body then measures the heat transfer to the next wire to determine the volume of air based on velocity in relation to thermal loss. Raising the body of the MAF to a temp above the capability of the wire produces false readings. Basicly my MAF no longer could heat the air to a temperature above what the air around and in the MAF was being maintained. Then throw into the equation that the pressurized air changes the density of the moisture present further skewing the figures and I had enough reason to move my MAF pre-blower. Remember that the intake vortice of the blower can extend 18" upstream of the blower so be sure to mount the MAF at least that far away from the blower.

 

[SHOMurph]

what about if an intercooler was placed before the MAF that is post blower?

Just curious....you guys know more than this average joe.

 

[ArkanSHO]

what about if an intercooler was placed before the MAF that is post blower?
Just curious....you guys know more than this average joe.

That certainly would be helpful for the temperature stability, but I still think the density of moisture would mess with the overall accuracy of the MAF. Just an opinion mind you as I haven't put that variation to paper yet.

 

[twr]

what about if an intercooler was placed before the MAF that is post blower?

Just curious....you guys know more than this average joe.

That has potential, but personally, I'd rather have the MAF metering air that is at ambient temp. Since the ACT is also measuring the ambient temp. Atleast mine is...

 

[shopartsnw]

I have said it before, but I will say it again. You have done an awesome job with the car.

How and where did you locate the two stage water injection? Are you running 100% water or water/alchohol?

Thanks again for you help. The only problem with your car, is We keep having "technology transfer" over to our cars (water injection, soon to be knock sensor, etc). You are making us go broke. At least we are going broke fast (speed that is).

- Mike

 

[SHOMurph]

That has potential, but personally, I'd rather have the MAF metering air that is at ambient temp. Since the ACT is also measuring the ambient temp. Atleast mine is...

please pardon my ignorance....when it comes to this stuff I am still a newbie.

When air passes through a pre-blower MAF won't it change when it is pressurized? Density, pressure, etc.

Wouldn't you want to measure exactly the air going into the motor after it has changed from the blower?

like I said this is all Greek to me and I'm Irish!

 

[ArkanSHO]

please pardon my ignorance....when it comes to this stuff I am still a newbie.
When air passes through a pre-blower MAF won't it change when it is pressurized? Density, pressure, etc.

Wouldn't you want to measure exactly the air going into the motor after it has changed from the blower?

like I said this is all Greek to me and I'm Irish!

Okay, the air is technically not changed, more air or less air or more moisture or less moisture from the inlet of the blower to the outlet of the blower, however the ability of the device to measure it is limited to certain parameters. The air is compressed by the SC but it is still the same amount that passed through the MAF uncompressed. The only real difference is that the uncompressed air is within the limitations of the MAF to accurately measure it.
Hope that didn't cloud the issue further.

 

[AutoSHO]

Drawing the airflow across the MAF before the blower allows the motor a much better chance to get an accurate reading than trying to read it post-blower. The air is much less turbulent and the MAF signal will be a lot smoother and cleaner than with it post-blower. This is why all OEMs use the MAF sensor placed before the turbo/supercharger.