wheel bearing?

[Huntervf]

My 93 ATX has developed an odd thumping/rattling noise coming from the passenger side front. It's most noticable over small washboard type bumps where the suspension is working but not taking any hard hits. When this happens it almost sounds like something is deathly loose and on the verge of falling off. It already has new ball joints, stab links and tie rod ends and an inspection of those articles proved them to be just fine. There is however some movement in the passenger wheel. With the car jacked up and my hands at 12:00 and 6:00 on the tire, the "wiggle" test gets me a touch of movement along with a subdued tapping sound that could very well be my noise when moving. I further disassembled the front wheel and got this same subdued tapping sound when hitting the axle & axle nut with a rubber mallet.

The other side has no movement and makes no noise at all.

The car isn't making any other noises and it drives just fine, but this rattle/clunk really bothers me. Does this sound like a bad wheel bearing to anyone else? And if it is, what kind of a repair job is this? I was once told that the spindle has to come off and the new bearing is pressed into it, yes? Does the SHO use the same bearing as a regular Taurus? If I'm going to a shop for this work I want to make damn sure I have all the necessary info ahead of time.

 

[SHO SPD]

If theres any loosness at all when you shake the wheel, and the BJ's and tie rods are tight, and axle bolt is tight, then yes you have a bad wheel bearing. Double check that the axle nut is indeed tight. The spindle does has to come off, its a pretty simple task. Take the spindle to napa, and have them press out and in the new bearing. and put the spindle back on and your good to go!. BTW a new bearing with race is like $50. I'm not sure how much Napa charges to press the bearing. Good luck, I hope you find the problem!

 

[SHOtimer]

That is either a bearing or a CV joint problem. If their is significant movement grasping the wheel at 12 & 6 then I would suspect the bearing. However, plan in the outer joint of the CV can also produce a clunking.

To replace the bearing the spindle does have to come off. Do not try to remove the ABS sensor, you will just destroy it. Simply unplug it and leave it installed in the spindle. The bearing is the same for all Tauri, autozone sells the Timken bearing assembly. Make sure you buy both the bearing and the hub, an old hub will destroy a new bearing.

I have the Timken bearing/hub assemblies on my car, the studs are shorter than the OE studs, but they are long enough to thread all of the lug nuts
surface.

Yes, the old bearing must be pressed out and the new one pressed in. However, their is a special order to do this in, and if done incorrectly can destroy the new bearing. I don't have it on the top of my head, but I know Rangerj does.

I have also been taught, that with front end service (like wheel bearings) that they should be done in pairs.

Doug

 

[SHO Type U]

Might as well do a '96 front brake upgrade.

 

[wood_e]

Might as well do a '96 front brake upgrade.

* 11.6 Cobra upgrade

 

[rangerj]

If you determine that you need front wheel bearings here are a few additional thoughts;

Early model SHOs have the bearings pressed into the steering knuckles and the bearing and knuckle is then pressed ONTO the hub. Auto Zones web site has a description of this process and an explanation. If the hub is pressed into the bearing it can and usually will distort the bearing.

The ball joint pinch bolt and nut should be replaced as should the axel nut. The nuts are "lock" type nuts and good for one use only. Replace the tie rod end cotter pin if the old one is rusted. Check the ball joint and lower control arm bushings while you are at it.

It is not necessary to remove the axel from the transmission to replace the bearing. Check the C/V inner and outer boots.

ALL nuts and bolts must be torqued to specification, especially the axel nut. The torque on the axel nut sets the preload on the bearing and this is critical to the life of the bearing.

As stated above the bearings should be replaced on both sides. If one is bad the other is most likely in the same condition.

Later models of the SHO have bearing and hub assemblies that are simply bolted to the steering knuckle. (I think this started in 1995 or 96)