What to do to my car for performance...

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extremesho

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Ok guys, I am heading to the track this weekend... Grudge match against a Prelude that my friend owns... I am ALL stock, with a spare and everything in it.

He has some mods that I am sure of - intake system, header, exhaust, and "free mods" his is a 5-speed.

What do I need to smoke his tail? I will tell you right now his car is no slouch... I need to know how to be way out ahead, or at least ahead period. I am making a statement here :D
 

97V8SHO

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What year of prelude? I would go with a K&N open cone filter, Here's the link on a how to http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/kncone.html the K&N filter # is E-0940. You can get one at auto zone, that's where I got mine. It added a bunch in take off and top end. Next you can get some denso iridium spark plugs at auto zone for $30 (they normally cost $120 for 8 but auto zone is stupid, well the one by my house is anyway). Thoughs added some in top end and mid range. Next you can add an exhaust and remove the 3rd cat (wich is actualy just a very small and very restricted muffler, so don't go to an exhaust shop and ask em to take the 3rd cat off because as soon as they hear the word cat they'll say no.) Get some Bullet, magnaflow, or flowmaster mufflers and keep stock size on the pipes wich is 2 1/2 from the cats back and then 2 1/4 after the gas tank into the mufflers. Only up size the pipe if you plan on adding a blower. Next you can get a shift kit from transgo and beef the tranny up but that'll be in the $3500 range so I wouldn't mess with it unless you have the money to do it with. Next thing would be to have some custom springs made so you can get a better launch off the line. Next thing would be fuel pump, injectors, standalone fuel managment system, and a blower from SHOfast.com. Or if you're an all motor guy get forged internals with high compression pistons, port and polish, head work, blue print and balance.

That's all that I can think of other than some Yokahoma AVS Sport tires but they have horible tred rating on em, 220tw rating, so they'll be gone in about 3K from what I've heard.

<small>[ December 16, 2003, 06:14 PM: Message edited by: 97V8SHO ]</small>
 

extremesho

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thumb That is what I was looking for... I don't know my rice burners, but I'd guess a 1996-1999 - I'd guess it runs somewhere between a 15.0 and a 15.6, I beat him once... Can't say how tho - but it was in my car wink . ANYWAYS, I have a friend with a 1999 Silverado 5.3 with K&N, programmed, straight pipes that has outrun him... That may be useful info, but I dunno?
 

97V8SHO

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Ok well the older ones are slow and so are the new ones. But the new 2002 modles are alot faster in top end. Right now me and my friend are trying to see who will beat who also. He has a 2002 Nissan Sentra V-Spec 6 speed manual and that runs a 15.2 in the 1/4 stock so I think I can take him.

That remined me, you can also get a dyno burned chip or wiat for tweecer to come out with the one for the Gen 3's. He told me it would be done around mid of 04 unless he hit some major problems with it.

With what you siad it doesn't really help me out on wheather you can for shur beat him or not because I don't know anything when it comes to trucks other than the Lighting. But with the basic intake and exhaust you should be able to. When/If you get a shift kit for your trans you will deffinatly smoke him no doubt.
 

Ian Macoomb

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Don't waste your time with a cone filter. It won't help your times. It'll probably even hurt the times since the car will be taking in hot air.

The best mod I've found is cold air. What I'd suggest is getting to the track early (an hour or two if possible). It really depends on the temperatures. If it's cold out then you won't need as long to cool down. I've found the best results when the engine is slightly warm but the intake runners are cool to the touch. You could ice the runners down before you run to accelerate this effect.

Also weight is the other big determining factor. Why not pull out the spare, the jack, the trunk carpeting the floor mats, etc. It's not too hard to pull out the rear seat if you want to go that far. I've found that the rear seat weighs 55 lbs (the passenger seat weighs 45 and the driver's 60). That 55 lbs should knock off between half and a full tenth.

Run with as little fuel in the tank as possible. I've run all day with the low fuel light on and enough to get 15 miles back to the nearest gas station. You may want to bring a gallon in a jerry can. If you have a full tank you could easily have 90-100 lbs of unecessary weight. And I've found the best results with regular 87 octane gas. Anything higher is a waste and could make it slower (less energy per gallon)

As for launching, as long as it's not super cold and the track is dry I've never had any problems. I just floor it and go. I even inflate my tires up to around 45 psi. Then I drop the tire pressure in the front if I have any excessive spin.
 

stephen newberg

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Ian is, from what I have been able to determine, right in all of the particulars, including about the octane level. Cold air to the motor and decreasing the weight being moved seem to be the largest physical effect items for times, short of going to NO2 type modifications.

So do some form of Porterization on your intake, make sure you are going out on a cool or cold day, and take every spare pound you can find out of the car. I did this after reading a lot of other folk about it and went to the track just once, getting a 15.1.

pax, smn
 

venom

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Yep, your car will be fine on 87 unless it is one of the few very rare ones that ping (like my 96) the wife's 99 runs dandily on 87 octane and even beat my car in the 1/4 even thought I had the high octane stuff, eeverything else is the same as we own both cars.

Before running disconnect your battery as well this will clear any PCM learning and run it hard for the first couple minutes (make sure you let it learn idle in every gear first or you will always be idling high).

Also talk to this guy about what is considered a win. First one across the line that doens't red light? Or fastet ET of the cars? Actually my wife's car never beat mine in the race as I always crossed the line first (except when she red lighted which invalidates her run anway) but her car had better ET's. From a purist standpoint, my car won. Comparing actual car times from 0 - 1320 feet her car was quicker; I wish we would have switched drivers to see how her car and my car matched up then.

Hope that made sense. Make sure you do the brain drain (pull battery cable for a bit (30 seconds is enough).


JDLangevin:
um, 87 octane? laugh_ti
 

venom

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Looks liek you have a Gen 2 (92-95 SHO)? If you do then you woudl ahve better esults posting this in the proper forum. The information you have been given here was under the assumption that it was a Gen 3. Some of the same basics apply, like having a cool intake and a CAI intake setup as well. As far as the octane and brain drain stuff I am not a proficient Gne 2 guy so I don't know there.

Still find out what they are going to call a winner, as the timeslip will tell. Also do you have an MTX or an ATX?


extremesho:
thumb That is what I was looking for... I don't know my rice burners, but I'd guess a 1996-1999 - I'd guess it runs somewhere between a 15.0 and a 15.6, I beat him once... Can't say how tho - but it was in my car wink . ANYWAYS, I have a friend with a 1999 Silverado 5.3 with K&N, programmed, straight pipes that has outrun him... That may be useful info, but I dunno?
 

NECGP

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Best mod......nitrous.....75 shot! You'll definately beat him then! thumb
 

extremesho

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1996 model, Gen 3, I am thinking that this is indeed the right place to talk about it's performance... Seeing as this is the 3rd gen forum :D . NEwayZ, thank you Ian for all the help you gave me, now I feel certain I will walk him.


venom:
Looks liek you have a Gen 2 (92-95 SHO)? If you do then you woudl ahve better esults posting this in the proper forum. The information you have been given here was under the assumption that it was a Gen 3. Some of the same basics apply, like having a cool intake and a CAI intake setup as well. As far as the octane and brain drain stuff I am not a proficient Gne 2 guy so I don't know there.

Still find out what they are going to call a winner, as the timeslip will tell. Also do you have an MTX or an ATX?


extremesho:
thumb That is what I was looking for... I don't know my rice burners, but I'd guess a 1996-1999 - I'd guess it runs somewhere between a 15.0 and a 15.6, I beat him once... Can't say how tho - but it was in my car wink . ANYWAYS, I have a friend with a 1999 Silverado 5.3 with K&N, programmed, straight pipes that has outrun him... That may be useful info, but I dunno?
 

extremesho

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NECGP:
Best mod......nitrous.....75 shot! You'll definately beat him then! thumb
Is a 75 shot safe? I had actually considered this mod, but this is my daily driver and I have to make sure it's gunna be safe before I do it.
 

karimm33

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Just a question... Wouldnt going on a cold day help both the cars? Not just his sho? shrug
 

mholhut

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extremesho:
NECGP:
Best mod......nitrous.....75 shot! You'll definately beat him then! thumb
Is a 75 shot safe? I had actually considered this mod, but this is my daily driver and I have to make sure it's gunna be safe before I do it.
Yep, I can testify to that. 14.3's in Garrett's car... and that's a slow car with nitrous :D Best $500 mod you can buy.
 

Ian Macoomb

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karimm33:
Just a question... Wouldnt going on a cold day help both the cars? Not just his sho? shrug
This is true. I think that the V8 SHO gains more than the average car does. And the colder air will make it harder for traction. Most manual transmission drivers have problems launching in the cold whereas my Gen III is easy to launch.

I went up against a Prelude this fall. I was talking to him in the lanes and he was asking me about my car. He said he had about 210 hp (probably 200 stock and "10 hp" from his mods).

I just dug up the slip. He ran a 15.735 @ 90.155 and I ran a 15.168 @ 92.090. This was with my full interior, open exhaust and I manually shifted 2-3. The temperature was 9 Celcius (about 48.2 F). The 1/8th mile numbers were [email protected] for me and [email protected]. Unfortunately the other intervals aren't available as the track doesn't bother to set up the lights for the other intervals on test & tune sessions late in the season.
 

SCOTTDW

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I would burn 87 octane all the time. I did with no problems. Only other options I had were Magnaflows and a KN panel. Ran like a stripped ape.

Scott
98SF
Magnaflows
K&N Panel
BFG GForce KDWS Z rated
(stolen Oct 02)
 

extremesho

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Ian Macoomb:
karimm33:
Just a question... Wouldnt going on a cold day help both the cars? Not just his sho? shrug
This is true. I think that the V8 SHO gains more than the average car does. And the colder air will make it harder for traction. Most manual transmission drivers have problems launching in the cold whereas my Gen III is easy to launch.

I went up against a Prelude this fall. I was talking to him in the lanes and he was asking me about my car. He said he had about 210 hp (probably 200 stock and "10 hp" from his mods).

I just dug up the slip. He ran a 15.735 @ 90.155 and I ran a 15.168 @ 92.090. This was with my full interior, open exhaust and I manually shifted 2-3. The temperature was 9 Celcius (about 48.2 F). The 1/8th mile numbers were [email protected] for me and [email protected]. Unfortunately the other intervals aren't available as the track doesn't bother to set up the lights for the other intervals on test & tune sessions late in the season.
Just wondering, how did you shift from 2-3 manually? Did you just start out in 1 and manually shift them all, or is there some way to just manually shift 2-3? I was curious about this, because I tried to start my car off in 2, thinking that it would actually start in one, pass to two, where I would manually shift to 3, but how do you do it - cuz my idea didn't work. lol I started in 2nd.
 
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