What should I keep?

[easye]

Hey guys, long time lurker. first time posting. Ive noticed this side of the forums been pretty slow. Hope there is some people around that could give me some insight. My Dad had a silver 99 since around 00 which was meticulously taken care of. It was giving to me about 5 years ago and then then one of the coolant lines popped under the intake and it inevitably overheated. pretty sure the head warped as there was tons of pressure in the coolant system after we fixed the bad coolant lines. Well it sat for about a year and i was able to acquire an identical silver 99 with lower miles that had hit a deer for cheap. I was able to swap over the front end parts from the overheated one and had a really great looking car, but the speedometer didnt work, and transmission was acting funky. After some research i pulled the abs unit out of the overheated one and put it in the wrecked one and now everything works as it should. The deer car came with paperwork that shows the cams were welded by FPS in Georgia in 07 and the trans was replaced at around 90000. the car shows 156000. Well the interior of the overheated car has been over run with mice! so not sure i should keep anything from inside. They sure love that fiber insulation. Is there anything I should keep off the overheated car before I scrap it? Stuff that is hard to come by? Does anyone want anything? Is it worth pulling the engine and trans to keep for parts?

 

[luigisho]

Some occasional failure parts are radio/climate control unit, blend doors/actuators, power antenna in case the other one gets bent/damaged, struts, maybe springs. with the engine and tranny out of the equation that's all I can think of off the top of the dome... If the headlight housings are still clear and out of the sun they might be worth keeping

 

[easye]

Thanks for the quick reply. Ill can easily take out the radio. What about the unit in the trunk? keep that too? to get to the blend doors/actuators require pulling the whole dash? The antennas are not the power ones unfortunately, i can unscrew the antenna and keep that part. I already stole the whole front end as we had just replaced the headlights on the other car. Struts on this car look brand new, the stickers are clean and have no wear. The underside of this car is crazily clean. It looks like it was never driven in Ohio. Im pretty sure it came from Georgia and who ever owned it took really good care of it. There is no rust on strut towers or above the rear wheel like they get. Id love to find out who owned it.

 

[luigisho]

I haven't owned one of this model in a long time. Not sure what becomes more accessable with the head unit out. I know there are alot more instances with the electronics failing in the oval unit vs the actual stereo components in the trunk. I think the climate control electronic stuff goes wrong more often in that unit vs the radio control functions. The SARC original units are unobtainable and electronically adjustable--and aftermarket units stink (at least to me). So if you have a strut go out, and have a viable low mileage oem replacement, I'd do that for sure. There have been plenty of us who would have paid for low mile used ones when we had to replace ours.

 

[easye]

Ok well ill pull the football out and not worry about the stuff in the trunk. This year didn't come with the SARC option and I believe my dad had already replaced the struts with MOOG replacements years ago, so i dont think they are original. The car had 250000 on it when it died. It still ran, just ruff, and with the coolant cap off would spray coolant 4 feet in the air when it was started.

 

[gamefanatic]

All of this is subjective to how much you are willing to spend on a new part or not, also to understand that these cars are old and parts are rare or only available in special runs...

Water Pump
Power Steering Pump
Radiator
Condensor
A/C Pump
Line that mounts to A/C pump and condensor
Computer
Wiring Harness
Air Box
99's didn't use CCRM so you should be okay there.
MAF
Coils on Plugs
Crank Sensor
CAM Sensor
IAC motor
Vacuum lines off intake and solenoids
Secondary Air Pump
Idler Pulley
Tension Idler (bearing is rare size)
Alternator
CD-Changer Unit (no..., these are all broke)
Steering Rack
Valve Buckets / Spacers
Tires

BTW it isn't too much in the grand scheme of things to get heads straightened out. I think I paid $180 and they did a valve job with that. Gaskets can be had from SHO Source.

 

[luigisho]

Piggybacking from above, SAI is another failure part that pops up from time to time. I wasn't sure how much you wanted to strip this thing down but that's a good list if you want to disassemble and store. AC parts are an issue with any older car.

 

[GEN 3 SHO FAN]

Its depends on how much time and space you have too... Spare parts take a lot of space for mine...

Gamefanatic makes a good list, here is my 2 cents.

- Front and rear bumpers (SHO uniques), yes the front too if its in one piece, the damage seems to be repairable, because the car has the higher probability to be damaged there (trust me, I damaged 2 in 1 summer...)
- rocker panels, the plastic part under the door (SHO uniques)
- doors ? (usefull if you have the space), if not, mirrors at least, could break because they don't move
- IMRC (could fail)
- Vanity cover (they broke)
- Galipers and pads, if good
- "A/C" relay for SAI pump (they broke), worth around 80$ used... placed near the pump (on the pump assembly, not sure)
- the keyless entry pad on the driver door (will wear if used), but easier to find for a 99, other fords had it too (for 96 its more complicated, different setup, 1 year only)
- Starter, they had one wire different from other taurus... You can replace it by a DOCH SLO one but this wire isn't funny to modify at this place...
- driver door trim with all the buttons in (assuming the 2 were with the grey interior), SHO door trim isn't the easier to find on SLO (if you have kids or want some, better to keep door trims...)
- electric doors motors (fronts and rear are differents IIRC)
- electric windows motors (expensive and could break)
- speakers ? MACH system have very few chances to break but they are very hard find now, not all the SLO had the "Premium"
- floor mats (SHO uniques) (don't forget the kids...)
- driver wheel (the leather will wear), leather version is hard to find on SLO
- leather seats (SHO uniques), at least you could replace the part on driver seat on his side facing the door, this particular place wear when entering and exiting the driver seat and leather will open there, I saw many with this problem, this part can be replaced as one part without retreiving leather (PM me for details)
- if you have time and space, sunroof (window and motor)
- valve cover bolts (SHO uniques and could break)

-> all taurus (gen 3 and 4 at least) have the same radiators (A/C too), not sure it worth the time
-> air blend door can be found on any SLO (including Gen4 with auto heater) with, doesn't worth the time to retreive it, better to find the last version of it on a low mileage Gen 4.
-> retreive the charger in the CD player BEFORE unpluging, it will be usefull to store another selection of CDs in your SHO (like an automatic gun, its always usefull to have a full charger ready to put in !)
-> Good alternators can be find on Ford Explorers of similar years (same casing) and are easier to unbolt (and less destroyed by water and dirt on top of the engine)

Personnaly, I'm in search of a A/C hose, not sure of the name, the one starting at the rad and going to compressor (but I can live without).

Good unbolting,

 

[gamefanatic]

Right, in other words. Keep the old skeleton and grab what you need. Keep a cover and a cat on it...

 

[stephen newberg]

I think everyone made excellent points. As you can see, its an extensive list. If it were me, I would find a place to store the dead car and just keep it as a potential parts bin, to be scrounged from when required.

smn

 

[easye]

Thanks for all the responses guys. I don't really have a place to keep the whole car or I would. Its going to be a sad day when she's gone. I still have the original window sticker for it. Ill keep it a little longer and pull as much interior out and take the rear bumper, and side skirts. Im keeping the exhaust for sure since its all been replaced with the magnaflo cats and mufflers and ss pipe. Can the engine and tranny come out through the top? or do i have to drop it out the bottom? Id love to keep the car rollable so when it its time to go it will be easier to get out. Is it worth finding some shit wheels to put on it and keep the SHO rims? the tires are shot but the rims look good. Both CD changers work and i have about 6 of the cartridge's for the CDs but i dont listen to CDs soooo... Thanks again guys i really appreciate the feedback.

 

[gamefanatic]

It is possible to bring it out the top, but easier out the bottom. I recommend if you are going to have to lift the front up enough to get it out from underneath you will want to elevate the rear a little higher off the ground to get the room you might need to raise the front high enough. I typically lower mine down onto a couple of furniture dollies to pull the whole assembly with the subframe.

Last car I had the front suspension/brakes and tires removed. So again, just set it down on some furniture dollies and the tow truck just pulled it up using the cable and didn't ruin the driveway.