went to replace rear stuts and this happened.....

[drew214]

Check this out I went to remove my rear struts and replace them, and of course some thing crazy happens. First off the strut to spindle pinch bolt snapped and broke. Figured no big deal I'll just remove the whole assembly and drill out the broken bolt then second as I'm loosening the rear suspension tension strut that sucker snaps right off. I sprayed the **** out of them with WD40. What the **** and of course the other side pinch bolt broke also. Has this happened to anybody else? This sucks. Do I have to remove the tension strut to remove the strut if the pinch bolt broke.

<small>[ March 01, 2003, 09:25 PM: Message edited by: drew214 ]</small>

 

[RStalveyARFF]

Well first of all, do this for us. Throw the WD40 away. That's right, throw it in the trash can. Go to the parts store tomorrow and pick up PB blaster. The stuff works 100 times better than WD. Second, to remove rusted items that probably haven't been moved in ages, you need heat. Propane at a minimum, MAPP gas works better, acetylene works best. You're going to need a cobalt drill bit, and drill the bolts out, and replace with a grade 8 bolt and nut. To remove the entire assembly, remove the control arms from the spindle, undo the nut on the strut rod, and slide the assembly off.

 

[projectSHO89]

Hmmmm If you had read my post from only two days ago http://www.shoforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=19;t=001188 you would have been prepared for some of this.

Live and learn.

Steve

 

[drew214]

Yes I used Mapp Gas, Heated them up really good. And I was ready for those pinch bolt to break no big deal my problem was the tension strut ( that connects the rear spindle to the frame). that sucker snapped

 

[sdpatt]

I feel sorry for you poor guys and your cars in the rust belt.

 

[jelloslug]

Rust? Whats that?

 

[pjtoledo]

I just finished drilling HALF of a broken rear pinch bolt. It can be a very challenging process. First off, use a small drill bit to start, like a 3/32". As the bolts twist (before they break) hard and soft regions form inside the bolt. That makes drilling a true and straight hole damn near impossible. How straight the first hole comes out the other end determines how large you can drill the next size. Remember, you have to leave the threads in the casting. That last bolt I did needed drilling twice, die grinding and reaming. That was just the sleeve of the bolt!!! The shoulder portion was rusted in solid. I have yet to get all the threads out of the other side of the hole. The spindle casting metal is much softer than the bolts. Be careful, if the drill gets crooked it will exit the bolt and really chew up the spindle. Be patient, and use your WD40 as a drilling lubricant, works great for that.

Perry Toledo,Ohio

 

[SHOZ123]

If you are going to drill and are intent on preserving the threads one should use left handed drill bits. They often will back the broken bolt out after going in about 2/3 of the way. And if they don't you have a hole drilled through the remnants.