Vibrations

[badcamelot]

When I brake from freeway speeds a strong vibration in the steering wheel occurs, but nothing when coasting or accelerating. Also at very low speed (like turning in to my drive) and only when turning right do I hear a rubbing/vibrating sound, dont feel that so much in the steering wheel but there is a slight shudder throughout the car. The two dont seem related, but the braking has me conserned because it's quite severe, almost enough for me not to want to drive. My visual inspection shows nothing and I have crawled underneath and nothing seems to be amiss.
Just FYI, I am running 4mm spacers on the front to accomodate 225's
Thanks.

 

[frosho]

Did you do the "shake" test on the front wheels? Grab it at 9 and 3 o-clock, shake it, and check for free-play. Then do the same at 12 and 6. Play at 9 and 3 points to tie rods. Play at 12 and 6 points to the ball joint (which is my guess). Play everywhere is a bad wheel bearing.

 

[notbange]

Dunno about your rubbing noise, but your vibration is probably some really warped front rotors.. they may be able to be turned on a lathe if they're in good shape, or you may replace them... what size tire are you running that you need spacers? And on FWD cars with McPherson strut suspension, you'd feel balljoint play as side to side movement with your hands at 9 and 3, it just will feel off axis from the centerline of the rim. If it's REALLY loose you'd feel it up and down.

 

[sperold]

Sounds like it is time for new front rotors.
Check your subframe bushings, usually when you get something happening when turning a certain direction, the bushings are loose and need to be cranked home to stiffen everything up.

 

[93rev2sev]

Rotors are the shaking

Rubbing might be the inner fender liner or any number of important things.

 

[frosho]

I agree it could be rotors, but there are other things to look at as well. Last year I had a [very] worn ball joint that caused the same symptoms as a bad rotor. Severe vibrations under braking at freeway speeds.

 

[badcamelot]

I thought of the rotors too, but those were replaced with brand new ones last feb when I purchased the car. So it's highly un likely to be rotors. Yes they could have warped I suppose, but I've never locked the brakes up per se and the ABS works so... I will perform the 9 - 3 and 12 - 6 this weekend. I will also check the bearing. By suggesting its bad, you're implying that visually it will be obvious right?
As far as the rubbbing it isnt the inner fender lining or anything else. Ive watched as my wife drove onto the drive, nothing seen but heard.
Tires are 225/16's. for some weird reason my car will not accomodate 225 without spacers, the 215's were the factory size. I have 8 wheels with tires and I replaced the worn out 215's with 225's on slicers from another same year SHO and they wouldnt fit, hence the spacers.
Thanks for the suggestions so far.

 

[rubydist]

I thought of the rotors too, but those were replaced with brand new ones last feb when I purchased the car. So it's highly un likely to be rotors.

Your thinking is unfortunately incorrect. The front rotors on these cars are highly susceptible to warping. Letting the tire guy use his impact wrench to install the front wheels will almost guarantee that they will warp. And, I have had a good set of rotors ruined in less than 2 weeks because the tire guy who swore that he used a torque wrench when he installed the wheels actually had not used the torque wrench at all.

The symptoms you describe are very likely from warped rotors.

 

[frosho]

...or uneven pad deposits on the rotors...

 

[93rev2sev]

Or not cleaning off all of the rust inhibitor. You really gotta keep cleaning that stuff off until the rag is spotless. Sometimes it takes longer to clean the rotor than it does for the rest of the job.

If ANY rust inhibitor was left on, that will make the rotors warp on the first 60-0 brake.

 

[sperold]

Like everyone above.... its the rotors, start pricing some new ones. You couldn't be getting off any easier concerning labour, and the prices are very good on the front rotors.... they are way less than the rear ones.
A rule of thumb is.... the next problem you have on your car is directly related to the last work done on your car. Remember that one, it will save you a lot of time.
And hurry up, some places give up to a year on parts, sometimes unofficially, February is a short month.

 

[badcamelot]

Im thinking rotors then....
i torqued the wheels on myself when i put the spacers on. But still, this is the first time Ive heard of rotors going out that fast. But I will submit to the wisdom of those here. Is it possible to have these new ones put on a lathe or si the general consensus to buy new ones?

 

[badcamelot]

I must admit I did very little when wiping the rotors when I first got them. Do you use the brake cleaner chemicals or just a clean cloth and lots o elbow grease?

 

[sperold]

The old rotors may clean up on a lathe, but you will find that it is just as expensive as the new rotors. In the old days when the spindle (with the bearings, etc) was part of the rotor, you went to great lengths to save it because it was expensive. The newer ones are a "hat" type and fit on over your studs (instead of being part of the assembly that included the studs).
In your case, the materials of construction come into it, and they may be doomed no matter what you do. Go to RockAuto and see the long list of rotors that are available. There is a chance you paid for Motorcraft ($53.79) and received Brand X ($24.79)..... the shops just can't help themselves when easy money is available.
Ask the place you bought them if they have the year warranty policy.
I didn't know about the cleanliness issue of brake rotors either... so I would say, buy the brake cleaner, and still use lots of elbow grease.

 

[badcamelot]

Called checker and they have a 2yr warranty - but the warranty does not cover warpage! I guess thats understandable. So I'll do as the other suggested tomorrow first, if nothing stands out then I guess Im getting new rotors - again!

 

[rubydist]

I must admit I did very little when wiping the rotors when I first got them. Do you use the brake cleaner chemicals or just a clean cloth and lots o elbow grease?

You need to use brake cleaner to get rid of the oils from the machining of the rotors (and the rust protection for the trip across the water...) or the pads will get ruined from the oil.

 

[notbange]

The old rotors may clean up on a lathe, but you will find that it is just as expensive as the new rotors. In the old days when the spindle (with the bearings, etc) was part of the rotor, you went to great lengths to save it because it was expensive. The newer ones are a "hat" type and fit on over your studs (instead of being part of the assembly that included the studs).
In your case, the materials of construction come into it, and they may be doomed no matter what you do. Go to RockAuto and see the long list of rotors that are available. There is a chance you paid for Motorcraft ($53.79) and received Brand X ($24.79)..... the shops just can't help themselves when easy money is available.
Ask the place you bought them if they have the year warranty policy.
I didn't know about the cleanliness issue of brake rotors either... so I would say, buy the brake cleaner, and still use lots of elbow grease.

I work in a shop, so machining is free to me. I buy the cheapest rotors you can find, and turn them before I put them on. I find the cheap rotors (and drums especially) are warped out of the box.

-Sam