Unique stalling sequence(s)

[sho_chuck]

Not one who likes being stuck on the side of the road, I am down to two options; 1) Rid myself of the best car I've ever owned, or 2) try and fix the following:

I have a '94 MTX with approx. 104k on it. There was a four month time period where my CE light popped on intemittently. Ran codes and kept getting a lean issue. Kept pushing it until one day it stalled (4th gear traveling ~40mph). Fired back up 10-15 minutes later. Took it to the dealer and they couldn't duplicate the problem.

So I finally replaced the O2 sensors, erased the codes, and everything was fine for a week or two. Then, coming home one morning, the car stalled again (or so I thought). The tach dropped to zero and the CE light popped back on; hit the gas a few times and it came back up. Drove the rest of the way home without a problem. Then decided to clean the intake for good measure.

Now, just yesterday, going around 70 mph, it did the exact same thing. So I pumped the gas a few times and everything came back to normal. Ran the codes this morning and got these:

157 - MAF signal voltage too low
173 - O2 indicates rich (due to the stall I assume)
211 - PIP sensor current failure (due to the stall I assume)
542 - FP circuit open - ECA to motor ground (due to the stall I assume)

Question: should I just replace the MAF sensor and see what happens or look elsewhere? I replaced this sensor ~ 5-6 years ago-not sure how long they're good for. Thanks for any feedback.

 

[LJRuddy]

You have a bad crank sensor. A bad crank sensor will not set a code or a CE light but it is indicative to stalling out after the engine has warmed up. After you let it sit for a while. the car will restart like nothing ever happened. This can be caused by a leaky coolant pump. Have you noticed low coolant levels at all?

 

[Phoenix]

Crank sensor

 

[sho_chuck]

Yes. I've been adding coolant every so often over the past 4-6 weeks. Had the pump replaced at 65k with the 60k work. Not looking forward to this repair. Thanks.

 

[LJRuddy]

Its an easy repair. pull the end tank off of the intake, remove timing covers and torque dampener, and remove crank pulley and timing belt... Thats pretty much all you need to do to get to the vital parts. It should take no longer than a sunday morning/afternoon. The water pump is a pretty easy job once the above is all removed. The crank sensor is a matter of 2 screws and a wire that spans up the front of the engine and connects where the fuel pressure regulator is.

EDIT: you will need to remove the passenger's tire and rent a pulley puller... Big deal eh?

Seriously, nothing is too difficult on the SHO. And if you get stuck, all your answers are right here.