Transmission Problems

[lithy]

Ok bought a 95 ATX SHO sold as having a bad trans and a bad shifter. The shifter lock isn't working right, but before I worry about that, I'll worry about what I'm going to do with the transmission.

It seems to only work in Reverse and 1st, but under some driving it seems like I can get it to clunk into 2nd. After a short drive to warm it up, I stopped it when a CEL came on.

It seemed like the trans fluid was leaking from somewhere and smoking off on the exhaust, so I was getting some light smoke from under the hood.

I figure I can limp it to an AutoZone or the like and get whatever code it threw pulled. But I figure I'll ask here to see if there is something like a CPS or some other sensor that could be bad and causing the trans to not shift other than the whole trans being bad.

Thanks

 

[projectSHO89]

Check your fluid level.

Pull your own codes. It's less than likely that a 'Zoner will know how to do a95.

Onceyou pull the code(s) it will be possible to further analyze the fault.

steve

 

[lithy]

Ah didn't know pulling my own codes was so easy Thanks to the SHO Phoenix Project here is what I have to report. Although it doesn't seem to say much for the trans.

KOEO
332 (R,M) EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittantly - EVR or PFE

KOER
332 (R,M) EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittantly - EVR or PFE
411 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high) - ISC
538 (R) System did not receive "goose" test
536 (O,R,M) Brake On Off open or shorted to ground - BOO
632 (R) E4OD - Transmission Control Switch (TCS) should be cycled once between engine ID and Goose test

I have a feeling 538 and maybe 632 are my fault (forgot how to start the cylinder balance test once I was in the car) and I doubt a bad EGR is causing a no shift condition. So assuming the trans is dead, would it be possible to not throw any codes?

 

[wood_e]

Do your brake lights work? If not your shift lock problem is probably due to the brake on off sensor. It's cheap and easy to replace.

There are tests that you need to do during the KOER test. The 538 is due to not giving the throttle a fast opening, at least 25% after the light flashes. You need to depress the brake pedal during the first part of the test, as well as press the OD on/off button.

 

[SHO#7]

When you drive the car, if you shift into manual 2, will it make the shift to second.

Mike

 

[lithy]

When you drive the car, if you shift into manual 2, will it make the shift to second.

Mike

I'm pretty sure no, and to be honest after reading a couple old threads of similar problems it may not have even been clunking into 2nd but rather back into first after the revs came down.

But today when I pulled the codes I can't even get the shifter down into gear at all anymore. It's a hassle involving a screwdriver that was tough before so its possible I'm just getting unlucky, or its somehow stuck in park now.

I'll have to get a friend out with me and check the brake lights. I had the same problem in my GL when the brake on/off switch died, wouldn't switch out of park and had no brake lights. Unfortunately the previous owner has already completely disassembled the shifter and I believe improperly so as to break something. But I'll see what I can figure out.

 

[SHO#7]

Most likely the shifter not coming from park is the BOO switch.

If you get no second when you select manual second, you most likely need a transmission.

Mike

 

[projectSHO89]

A second known failure of the brake light circuit besides the BOO switch is the cruise disconnect pressure switch on the bottom of the master cylinder.

The switch leaks fluid into the connector and causes fuse F1 in the I/P fuse panel to blow. This removes power from the brake light circuit which includes the shifter interlock.

Mike's the transmission guy, follow his suggestions. He's done this a lot longer than I have.

Steve

 

[Hank F.]

I am hardly the voice of experience, but the BOO switch was what cured my problem.

 

[Frank]

Does the car have around 110,000-120,000 miles? Mine was at 117,000 when I had the ATX replaced. It was a gradual decline, starting with slippage in first, then slippage in 2nd, loss of 4th, then loss of 3rd and 2nd. At the time of replacement I only had first and reverse.

My cruise control cutoff switch died and leaked brake fluid, blowing the fuse and frying the BOO switch wiring.

Frank Whittle
'95 ATX

 

[dastuph]

BOO - part # or other name??

I hate to sound like a complete ***** but does the BOO (brake on/off switch) go by a specific name or part number? I'm having trouble tracking down the item on rockauto.com.

Thanks ahead of time as it sounds like this should fix my issues as well.

 

[sho'd]

I hate to sound like a complete ***** but does the BOO (brake on/off switch) go by a specific name or part number? I'm having trouble tracking down the item on rockauto.com.

Thanks ahead of time as it sounds like this should fix my issues as well.

i believe this is what you are looking for. click on link below. can someone varify, i havn't actually had to replace mine....

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1138878,parttype,10474

 

[dastuph]

Thanks so much. I wasn't even sure what this thing looked like or where it was located. Got under the dash and checked it out...one of the wires had broken off from the connector. Nipped the connector off and soldered the wires onto the BOO and now I'm good to go (after adjusting the new neutral switch I bought and installed for no reason...crap ).

Thanks!

 

[Tommy's SHO]

Transmission Woes @ 105k miles

I have a weird issue with my car guys.

1. My tranny is not going into overdrive when the engine is cold......

2. Sometimes when the tranny is warm and start her up the overdrive light stays on, does not flash or anything, just stays lit. Overdrive button does not do anything in this case....and ofcourse does not go into overdrive.

3. To get it to go into overdrive, I have to shut her off, after she has warmed up 20-30 mintues of driving, wait a few minutes then start her back up and she is all good, except for the fact my overdrive switch does not work even then. WTF?

Pulled some codes today:
337 EGR signal was high
167 TPS did not recieve goose test (I pushed on the gas half way)
116 ECT sensor out of range
411 idle speed system not controlling idle
538 No goose test (??)
521 wheel not turn during test (I did turn it)
632 Transmission control switch should be cycled once during goose test. ( pressed it)

I think the EGR is playing with the tranny, what do you think? or


I have to replace my overdrive switch......fun.

 

[projectSHO89]

Jam the throttle to the floor for the goose test and immediately release.

Inspect the wires for the O/D Cancel switch where they exit the shifter handle. They break far more often than does the switch fail.

Your DPFE sensor may be on its way out.

Make certain that the engine is at operating temperature when running the PCM Quick Test.

There is a very short timing window to get all the operator responses done. It's tricky and, even after doing this for quite a few years, I still miss it half the time.

Next time, start a new thread for your issues unless you have something directly related to the old thread you've been looking at and you tie it together.

Steve

 

[SHO#7]

The transmission will not go into lock up until the car has reached a certian temp. IIRC it will take a good 20 minutes of drive time. Of you can trick it, by shutting off after 10 minutes.

That is normal operation.

Mike

 

[jimsnorton]

No 4th gear in my '97 SHO

I'm new to this 4um and have had great experiences with others. I just got a '97 SHO V8, & I know the tranny has issues. I'd like to try a couple of things before I end up putting big bucks into a car that only cost me 5 Hun. My car has the "Get Engine Serviced Soon" light on steady. It also has the O.D light blinking, most of the time. It's only out at slow speeds, like before it should do go into fourth gear. I've done a lot of searching, but haven't really landed on my issue. The tranny fluid looks clean, & does not stink. I got the car from a friend & have all the service records. He has had the tranny replaced 3 times, it has just under 250K miles, & is in pretty good shape, considering.
Any help will be gratefully appreciated.