TOB replacement

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jthod

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From what it sounds my '90 MTX is in need of a new TOB, and while I'm down there a clutch.
correct me if I'm wrong but the are the symptoms that lead me to believe it's the TOB.

1. Clicking at ~2000-2800 rpm under a load.
2. Terrible shifting, it gets better at higher rpm's, but 2nd is a bitch.
3. After starting in first gear (i.e. leaving the house in the afternoon), it's almost impossible to get in reverse w/o grinding, this goes away if I turn the car off and restart it while in reverse.

I'm going to try and change the tranny fluid this saturday, but I don't expect this to fix the clicking problem at all.

A couple questions:
1. I'm pretty good as far as mechanics go, but don't have the time patience, or experience in this kind of thing. What is a reasonable price for a clutch and TOB replacement? I'm not looking for anything too crazy, I don't do any racing, other than the occasional 'yeah :naughty:, it's just a Taurus race.'
The only performance parts I plan on adding is a y-pipe, and possible exhaust.

I was quoted $814 for:
-TOB
-Clutch plate
-pressure plate
-piolet bearing
-resurfacing
-and labor
(Luke Brand parts)

Thanks in advance!:thankyou:
 
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zak

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Usually the clutch fingers get worn, causing incomplete release of the clutch and thus difficult shifting. One you can no longer get into first or reverse at a standstill then its time for a new pressure plate - given the work involved replace the entire clutch and throwout bearing.

If you do allot of stop and go driving, like to wind through the gears, break traction in first, etc. then a ceramic TOB from SHOnut will help the pressure plate diaphragm fingers last longer. If you primarily use the car for long highway cruises then it is more of an option/insurance. The SHO uses a throwout bearing that is constantly in contact with the fingers - burnouts, for example, will result in very rapid engine acceleration - the stock TOB can not keep up, and the inner race slides agaibst the fingers causing wear.

My first clutch (OEM, from the factory, Rev "B" TOB) lasted 31 K before the fingers wore through. I replaced it with a ceramic TOB, and new stock Ford clutch, and it now has over 60 K miles including 100+ autocross runs.

Other items such as the TOB fork and bushings should also be considered, SHOnut has upgraded options on the fork bushings. zak
 
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jthod

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I changed my tranny fluid last night, and all I can say is WOW! What a bitch! But what a difference. It shifts much better, but still has the first to reverse problem, and the clicking.
I tried the vacuum cleaner method and just couldn't get it to work. 1/4" tubing just plain doesm't move enough fluid. I even tried a five gallon bucket as apposed to a gatorade bottle, and it didn't make a bit of difference. I ended up taking a two liter bottle and putting the tubing in a hole in the cap, and putting a hole in one of the nubs on the bottom and used it kind of like a turkey baster (fitting for the time eh?). Still took me like two hours to take out two quarts. To refill I used the same bottle and hung it from the ceiling of the shop. It looked like my SHO was getting a blood tranfusion:rofl:. I didn't want to even want to know how long that would take so I went to bed.
I'm still in need of the clutch job, but it will have to wait. I'm guessing the 800 dollar range is about right. ???
 

jthod

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I found a guy that has done a few SHO's and gave me a price of ~$750 with a Luke Clutch kit. I've heard these are good parts, but I'm thinking about a Clutchmasters stage 1 kit, he said he would do the work but couldn't give any waranty. I'm guessing that the CM kit is better, but how much? Is it worth the extra $ ? Like I said, I don't thrash my car. I couldn't find much as far as reviews on the CM kit, and was wondering what everyone thought of them. A couple of the shops I called told me that I would need a new flywheel off of a GEN II for the new clutch kit to work. Is this true, or B.S.? Most places said just resurface the original.
:thankyou: For All The Help!
 

AREA 91

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the difference between a stock clutch and the CM1 is that the CM1 has "reinforced" pressure plate straps. These are a known weak point when you shift aggressively. If you aren't ******* your car, the stock clutch is fine. The clutch disc's are the same.

FWIW, I have ran a stock, CM1, fibertuff 9 puck, and CM3.
 

jthod

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A couple of the shops I called told me that I would need a new flywheel off of a GEN II for the new clutch kit to work. Is this true, or B.S.? Most places said just resurface the original.
:thankyou: For All The Help!

Digging up my old thread AND quoting myself.:nut:

Since I have a '90 shouldn't I have a 9.75". I thought only the '89's had 9.25". Not only that it is a '90, but it has 104k on the original clutch, and still grips great.
 

itwonder

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I found a guy that has done a few SHO's and gave me a price of ~$750 with a Luke Clutch kit. I've heard these are good parts, but I'm thinking about a Clutchmasters stage 1 kit, he said he would do the work but couldn't give any waranty. I'm guessing that the CM kit is better, but how much? Is it worth the extra $ ? Like I said, I don't thrash my car. I couldn't find much as far as reviews on the CM kit, and was wondering what everyone thought of them. A couple of the shops I called told me that I would need a new flywheel off of a GEN II for the new clutch kit to work. Is this true, or B.S.? Most places said just resurface the original.
:thankyou: For All The Help!

All of the clutch kits use Valeo parts. It really does not matter. I recommend the Duralast kit from Autozone because it has a lifetime warranty. Instead of extra money for a Clutchmaster's kit, I would spend those dollars on an upgraded TOB, the ceramic TOM from shonutperformance.com. You can also get upgraded shift shaft bushings from them, which do not come with the kit. He also sells an installation video that is definitely worth the money.
 
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