To tease your brain?

[SHOYAY]

Im going to be helping out a fellow SHO owner and Im looking for a few ideas that may slip my mind st the time I go. 1993 3.0 mtx. Alternator failed and car died out. He replaced the alt and ever since then, car wont start, turns over but will not start. Has spark at all plugs and fuel pump engages. Car gives no codes.
Has newer cps,cam sensor,coil,plugs, wires. My first thoughts are, bad ccrm, bad dis, bad ground, bad voltage regulator. Am I missing any ideas as to what it might be? Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[kevinspann]

He did disconnect the battery in order to prevent grounding the charge wire when removed from the alternator, right?

Car gives NO codes? Not even a "passed" code?

 

[itwonder]

ECU fried

 

[Bob Gervais]

He did disconnect the battery in order to prevent grounding the charge wire when removed from the alternator, right?

Car gives NO codes? Not even a "passed" code?

This. My guess is that there's one or more fusible links that are fried.

 

[Blackdr16]

Check that he didn't bump the connection on the DIS module. That will cause that issue.

 

[kevinspann]

This. My guess is that there's one or more fusible links that are fried.

I totally haven't done this before.

 

[SHOYAY]

I do not know if he unhooked the battery, but will ask and I will check out the fusible links. Going to definitely check out all connections to dis. Hes told me that hes had it towed to 4 different shops and no one can figure it out. Im not gonna give up until its running. I find it fun and challenging to figure these things out. Thanks for the suggestions so far.

 

[kevinspann]

Does the CEL light at all? I think he fried the PCM too.

 

[Eric VerValin]

Engine fan should stay on with the key turned "on" if that's the case. Easy to check that.

 

[typhoon5000]

I do not know if he unhooked the battery, but will ask and I will check out the fusible links. Going to definitely check out all connections to dis. Hes told me that hes had it towed to 4 different shops and no one can figure it out. Im not gonna give up until its running. I find it fun and challenging to figure these things out. Thanks for the suggestions so far.

I'm pretty sure you have to remove the battery to replace the alt for access, but I would def check the fuses first. IDK how many issues I've found were just a blown fuse

 

[kevinspann]

Unless he started with the charge wire first...who knows.

 

[SHOYAY]

Wont know anymore info on exactly what happened etc until I look at the car wednsday. Was suppose to be today, but got moved until then.

 

[Shovert]

Since you said have spark correct? And say have fuel pump which I assume have fuel pump? That brings me to no power to the fuel injectors. I looked at my 94 3.2 diagram I assuming same.[ Since I don't have a 95 3.0 one] All reference is to my diagram. See if have 12vdc at red wire at a injector.
Diagram shows a 10 amp fuse in box under hood
15 amp in I/p fuse panel
30 amp in box under hood
15 amp in i/p panel
10 amp in i/p panel
There that is my little bit of help. Maurice

 

[itwonder]

If it fires on a shot of starting fluid you'll know if it's an FI problem.

 

[DemonNeno]

Hearing your fuel pump doesn't constitute as enough fuel volume. Simple test would be to hook up a fuel pressure gauge, grab a bottle and hold the purge valve on the test gushed while someone keys on for you. If it fills an amount more than necessary to start the car.(think about it, it doesn't take a quarter cup to start a car) you can assure yourself you're getting enough fuel.

Secondly, make sure your not dealing with a simple issue - flooded cylinders/fouled plugs. Third? Is your regulator leaking? This could lead to a flood symptom as fuel bleeds into your intake.

Now we're at injectors. They must click.

If all this fails, then I'm positive you're overlooking the flooded issue. Pull all your plugs, disable fuel and to clear your cylinders.

Fuel volume is very commonly overlooked or mistaken for pressure.