tire vs more mods??

[silverknight]

ok. here is my setup
93 atx rebuild w.shift kit
D4U1 computer
K&N panel
fully maintained 60k, 120k.
eibach/sensatracks
26mm rear sway
11.6: upgrade with pfc pads
new rack, ps pump, pressure lines
added trans and ps coolers
almost all new moog bushings
alsfb
front stb
will be getting BBB and P&P intake

now... some Qs
its mainly my summer/track car. no DD

do i spend $1000 on track tires and wheels, like hoosier R6, or do i spend that on subframe connectors, UDP, tune, whatever?

i do have decent UHP tires on the car with 17x7" wheels.
whats the best bang for the buck to get me faster around the course?
ultimately its like 20+ more motor hp to obtain higher top end speed, or gaining speed in corners which ultimately gets me going faster too?

 

[AREA 91]

Go for the grip!

 

[SuperHO]

always keep in mind that after all is said and done, the only thing between you and the road is your tires.

 

[zach44102]

i would be spending that money on a LSD. get rid of one wheel peels

 

[silverknight]

i would be spending that money on a LSD. get rid of one wheel peels

that hasnt yet been a problem on the roadcourse with current mods. plus, thats way way too much money for what its worth to me.

 

[zach44102]

allthough you may think you dont need it, it channges the handling charateristics of the car drasticly! but i would pick tires if your not interested. the get a zex kit

 

[Phoenix]

I would opt for a mix of cheaper sticky tires and some light mods.

Hoosiers are anything but cheap , maybe something like Khumo Ecsta XS (or MX) or dunlop direzza Star spec.... Before you peel those you will have to put some serious power down.

If you are shopping on tirerack , check for traction code AA or A , with A temp , and a low threadwear like below 300. Softest tires = lowest threadwear.

 

[91PDXmocha]

Used quaife . If it's not a problem on the track you must be taking it pretty easy in the corners .

If quaife ain't your thing I too say tires . I don't think you will even notice much more from bolt on's . If you think 1k for the quaife is not worth it I really think u will be disappointed on spending 1k+ on slightly more top end and a " stockish " tune . but to each his own in the end it's all about what you want . I'd reccomemd driving a car with a quaife tho .

 

[Phoenix]

Used quaife . If it's not a problem on the track you must be taking it pretty easy in the corners .

If quaife ain't your thing I too say tires . I don't think you will even notice much more from bolt on's . If you think 1k for the quaife is not worth it I really think u will be disappointed on spending 1k+ on slightly more top end and a " stockish " tune . but to each his own in the end it's all about what you want . I'd reccomemd driving a car with a quaife tho .

Problem with those is that they keep their value , 800-900$ used , 1200 new.
Im far from saying its not worth it though. Just saying that you wont get any deals cause its used.

 

[Racer X]

i would be spending that money on a LSD. get rid of one wheel peels

ok. here is my setup
93 atx rebuild w.shift kit
{snip}

AFAIK, there isn't a readily available LSD/ TBD option for the AX4S/AX4N.

 

[91PDXmocha]

Problem with those is that they keep their value , 800-900$ used , 1200 new.
Im far from saying its not worth it though. Just saying that you wont get any deals cause its used.

Yea true , but I guess since there are no new ones ( or very few ) it's moot :/

I just keep my a eye out for Quaifed car that goes for cheap . Rip the trans , part the rest lol.

 

[.RaMpAgE.]

get the proline ma102 78 buxs a wheel 17x7.5 they are lightweight, plus look good pep boys of all places and some ecsta xs or hankook rs both about 550 buxs 225/45/17 shipped and subframe connectors then call it a day!! then you could lower the strut in the knuckle since the tire is about a 1/2 smaller make you a lil more lower to the ground........this is my next mod lol is all the above

 

[silverknight]

last track day i was running general exclaim UHP 225/45/17 with the strut tab mod done. those tires are 380 treadwear with A A spec.

now i have kumho ecsta spt on in 225/45/17 rear for summer which have 320 tread with AA A spec. and bf goodrich gforce sport on front in a 235/45/17 and they have a 340 AA A spec. running that configuration mainly cause its what i have sitting around.

granted there are better summer performance tires to run, new ones would be i the same ballpark.

and thanks hamal, this is an atx car. has less than 10k on the trans rebuild, so it will stay that way unless it grenades. and the new wavetrac for atx is like $2k, so no. not even an option. and i do drive my atx ******* the track.

 

[Bob Gervais]

allthough you may think you dont need it, it channges the handling charateristics of the car drasticly! but i would pick tires if your not interested. the get a zex kit

And you know this how? And a Zex kit for a road course?

No offense (oh, who the **** am I kidding?), but stick to what you know.

 

[Bob Gervais]

last track day i was running general exclaim UHP 225/45/17 with the strut tab mod done. those tires are 380 treadwear with A A spec.

now i have kumho ecsta spt on in 225/45/17 rear for summer which have 320 tread with AA A spec. and bf goodrich gforce sport on front in a 235/45/17 and they have a 340 AA A spec. running that configuration mainly cause its what i have sitting around.

granted there are better summer performance tires to run, new ones would be i the same ballpark.

and thanks hamal, this is an atx car. has less than 10k on the trans rebuild, so it will stay that way unless it grenades. and the new wavetrac for atx is like $2k, so no. not even an option. and i do drive my atx ******* the track.

Mario, a lot of this depends on how you feel with the car. Regardless of what anyone says, what's been proven, etc., it's all about your comfort level.

Were tires your limiting factor? If so, then go for the race rubber.

 

[jedhead]

I would install subframe connectors first. The make the car much stiffer and allows the suspension mods work much better. Then with what is left over buy the stickiest summer tires for the money.

Bob

 

[silverknight]

On a track like gingerman, no, only because the turns are soo big and give me enough space to catch up.
But I think on a smaller more technical course like waterford hills or gratten, where the straights aren't nearly as big, the speed through the corners is where it would benefit.
One of my current customers is a porsche mechanic, tuner and racer. He built a civic with barely any motor, all suspension and race rubber keeps up with high end cars on the course since he catched em in the corners.

 

[silverknight]

And I will prolly just go ahead get the connectors and h brace anyway and for the most part should be sufficient on suspension work till I finally install the koni inserts on the car.

 

[SHOspazz92]

First, Don't buy another set of brand new wheels just for race tires. Put a WTB add for some cheap 17x8 wheels.

Don't buy full on slicks like a Hoosier R6/A6/Kuhmo V-710, They will hide MANY many of the Mistakes that you are going to make with their sheer grip. A VERY sticky (Were talking nearly a R-Comp) tire like a Brdigestone RE-11 or Dunlop Direzza Starspec Z1 will grip like no other street tire you have ever driven on, However they will also be a lot more forgiving then Slicks and give you more Feedback.... an easier curve to learn on we'll say.

My choice would be the Star Spec, They are much cheaper then the Bridgestones and are every bit as fast.

For size, I would go with 245/40/17 on a 17x8 or a 225/45/17 on a 17x7.

GOOD Tire and Brakes are going to get you around the course faster then any bolt on.

-Sam

 

[rubydist]

the best thing you can do for that car at this point seems to be the Gen3 subframe and front suspension.

after that, buy the best tires/wheels you can still afford.