timing issue

[badcamelot]

I just purchased someone's throw-away 93 ATX. I have been giving it TLC (as best I can) and I have replaced the plugs (autolite's .44 gap) the wires and now the coil pack. I have also used techron fuel injector cleaner with a fill-up of premium fuel. After driving for about 15 mins the check engine light comes on. At idle the engine feels/sounds as though it isn't quite smooth. Applying throttle it hesitates and then surges a little. Now I have changed the coil pack at 3000rpm and above 3000 rpm it seems to not hesitate, although it doesn't seem to have anywhere near the pull my 91 MTX did. With just the plugs and wires and injector cleaner it seemed to do a little better than before, but not night and day difference. The coil pack seems to have helped with above 3000 rpm response, but again it can't be right? What other suggestions? Any talk of vaccum and I'm lost. My power steering pump is squeaking (soon to be replaced) could this be causing excessive drag on the belt and ultimately be interferring with engine performance?

 

[Vnuk1]

Have you pulled the codes?

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm <<<HERE

 

[badcamelot]

I'm going to reveal my mechanical ineptitude here....it's a 93 so no OBD to plug into right? But to answer the question no I haven't. How do I?

 

[Vnuk1]

I posted the link in my other post. Pulling the codes will give us better idea of whats wrong and how to help you.

 

[mooseSHO46]

Paper clip method yay :woo-hoo: just go on the site above and you can't mess it up

 

[badcamelot]

Thanks, I'll go try that then get back to you both.:thankyou:

 

[93rev2sev]

Since you've already started off with plugs and wires, I think you should clean your MAF sensor. It's known to cause your symptoms, exactly. It should take less than 5 minutes and can make a dramatic difference. To get it out of the housing you need a security torx bit set, available at most auto parts stores. Just turn off the car, unplug it, remove the the 2 little screws holding it in and pull it straight out. You will be spraying the little filiments on the tip with MAF cleaner, twice (per instructions), reinstall.

Might work like a charm.

 

[badcamelot]

Thank you. I do have a can of MAF cleaner (apparently carb cleaner melts the plastic parts in MAF's) I am a little concerned though, because the last time I used this, recommended by a 'mechanic' on a Volvo V70 T5 the check engine light came on , the car didn't run well and the dealer claimed the fix was to replace the MAF sensor. Sounds as though you've done this before...no MAF replacements I take it?

 

[93rev2sev]

yes, I've done this before. Everytime I change the air filter ever since I saw it's impact on performance.

 

[badcamelot]

timing issue - no more

Thank you 93rev2sev, I did clean the MAF. Also Vnuk1 and MooseSHO46 I pulled the codes and here's what they are: (during key on test) 123 (O,M) TP is/was high or short to power - TPS - 512 (M) Memory power (PCM pin 1) was interrupted - Was battery disconnected ? - I also am certain it flashed 1 5 3, but apparently there is no code for that so.....?
then with engine running it said : 136 (R) Oxygen sensor not switching/system lean Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control - 167 (R) No Throttle Position sensor change in "goose" test (must get at least 25% rotation) - TPS - 632 (R) E4OD - Transmission Control Switch (TCS) should be cycled once between engine ID and Goose test
then after the rpm thing: 538 (R) System did not receive "goose" test

But here is the biggest issue or find, plugs 5 & 6 were switched. I made the cardinal mistake of following where the plugs went to and from when I replaced them. The assumption that it was right - durrr. Thankfully the thought occurred to me to find a schematic of the coil pack to cylinder layout and double check it and sure enough 5 & 6 were backwards. Now the car runs fantastic, the same pull in the seat as my old MTX.
Now I just need to figure out if these codes mean anything immediate and seriouos. Also to answer what may be your next question - no I have not yet performed the 120K The odometer reads 121568 K. So I'm sure those things need doing and I have to replace the power steering pump anyway.
As a side note is there some performance bump I should perform when doing the 120K as a matter of course, meaning, everyone else does so?
Thank you guys so much, you help and suggestions have been awesome.

 

[Pro*banshee]

that 123 looks suspect. Does it surge when you do smooth acceleration from no throttle to WOT? a new Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is only like 40 bucks, better change it anyway.

the oxygen sensors do need changed if they've never been changed. Probably a good idea anyway.

167, 538, 632 is just because you didn't push the accelerator pedal down when it expected you to.